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gwlolo

How to Paint

gwlolo
10 years ago

I realize that is a pretty broad topic but I think many of you here know how to paint walls, trim and furniture well. I am tired of paying a painter who is sloppy, messy, a grouch and not necessarily mindful of things like having to cover marble counters and wood floors. I have also realized that I am somewhat finicky and actually want to see swatches of colors on the walls before I decide. What he does, does not look that hard. Add to this, DD8 had taken to watching Annie Sloan chalk paint videos on youtube and has been begging me to help her paint her own night table.

Can you give me tips on how to get started - tools, rules, books and videos are good. I am good with my hands, don't mind a mess, have a lot of conference freebie t-shirts and don't have a fear of heights. I went to home depot thinking I would just grab a few supplies to try and came back overwhelmed by all the rollers, brushes and pans. I just want to get a few good quality supplies that will last. I know frog tape is one (thank you Bee). What else?

Comments (29)

  • gwlolo
    Original Author
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Liriodendron --> Wow! I read that 2 times and I am just amazed at the wealth of knowledge you have shared on this. Thank you. I really appreciate it.

    I just googled and saw a video to understand what cutting in means. I am very good with an eyeliner and used to do makeup for friends in school and college and still do for weddings and such. I think I can paint in a straight line and maintain even pressure and let the brush do the work

    Canvas drop cloth (heavy duty) for 20 bucks on ebay - check

    What are the other tools I need. Minimum set of brushes. Preferred kind/ brands. What about rollers? mixing buckets? any trays?
    .

  • jmc01
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Metal roller frame.

    metal tray - don't bother with plastic, they're too flimsy. metal cleans up well.

    Brushes - cutting in requires an angled brush. You can use a straight edge brush otherwise. Brushes are made for the type of paint one is using. Get good quality brushes - they clean up better. In general, I use 1 1/2" brushes most often.

    Rollers - Are determined by the depth of the nap. A really smooth wall gets a short nap roller - I use 1/4". Bumpy walls - like vintage plaster with bumpy finishes - get longer nap.

    Clean everything immediately when done and before paint dries on your supplies.

    when making your purchases, go to a real paint store and skip HD or Lowe's. Talk to the paint store employees, let them teach you, too.

    I paint ceilings first, then the trim, then the walls. Ceilings always splatter so with this order, trim and walls get covered after ceiling splatters ha occurred. That's the order my dad taught me and it's served me well my adult life.

  • liriodendron
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Choose the paint brush and roller thickness (nap) after you decide on the paint type and the surface to be painted. Oil and latex paints need different kinds. Surfaces greatly affect the kind of roller sleeve you'll need.

    But don't quail at a paint brush that costs $30 or more and a roller cover that costs $12-15. At those prices, with good cleaning and storage they will last for years. If you have to economize, I'd go with less-expensive, more disposable roller covers and save your $$ for brushes, which are definitely not one-use items.

    Find a real paint store, and ask for advice from the oldest guy there. They will be charmed that someone doesn't just want the cheapest and fastest solution. They can help you choose the right brush and give instructions for cleaning and storing it.

    A roller sleeve spinner will also cost about $35, but is very useful when it comes to cleaning, especially if you have a multi-day project going. You'll need a large garbage can to contain the spatter from spinning it, though.

    Truly, if you can apply eyeliner to someone else, you will find cutting in to be dead easy. It's just a matter of learning precisely how much to load on the brush and how to subtley rotate along the line you want to draw as the paint is laid down and you move along the line. And how to start the stroke smoothly (joining the previous stroke) and to pull the brush away at the end of the stroke in a way to make starting the next stroke easily.

    The trick to cutting in between surfaces is to not try to get two exactly abutting lines to meet at the "join". The first layer goes slightly over where they would join. The second layer (whether the wall color, or the trim color, depending on which one you like to do first, and last) is drawn just to the meeting point. Often this is hidden in the join between two right-angled surfaces. But you want to be free-handed enough to compensate for any little imperfections of flatness or squareness (wiggly caulking, warping, joint compound bumps, etc.) that exist on the surfaces. You can always go back and fix a little under extension (if you can even find it again), but over-slop stands out. Cutting in is simultaneously handling the meeting point between two different paints, but it is also the painted-edge of the rest of the paint of that type. In other words it's a combination of a fine line and a band of paint which is the border area of a larger surface.

    When you're painting the joint between trim paint and a wall, or cutting in around a pane of glass, this is pretty easy to visualize. But when you've got the meeting of two flat surfaces (say wall and ceiling where there is no crown, or trim) you need to think in terms of cutting-in not so much lines as meeting fields of paint. Since you'd likely be using rollers for the two adjoining main fields, the bands have to be painted with a brush and the bands need to be wide enough on each surface so that the edge and apparatus of the roller and its frame don't bump into the adjoining surface when you're painting the field. At the same time there is usually a noticeable textural difference between roller-applied paint and brushed-on paint which you have to learn to minimize by using the roller with skill close to the joint, overlapping the previously painted band of cut-in paint. It's also easy to leave a little, unattractive paint ridge that runs off the free end of the roller. Look out for this little problem and teach yourself to judge the amount of paint and the pressure you are using on these strokes to avoid creating them.

    That's why I suggested learning on a less-important room: a basement broom closet would be a good starting place! If you decide to use a brand of paint that other people note seems hard to work with, you can always practice by repainting that broom closet.

    Painting (including even the sometimes-tedious prep) is a very satisfying home repair activity. If you do it yourself you'll turn into a paint snob. It's like learning to sew your own clothes, ready-to-wear (at all price points) afterwards seems ill-made. I like to tell myself that all the labor costs I save allow me to buy any paint I want, even the $150/gal kind.

    You'll also need paint trays for when you use a roller. I wouldn't bother with plastic trays, though. Some people like plastic tray liners, but I rarely use them. I just clean the metal trays well.

    As I mentioned you should have a large clean painting bucket for boxing the paint. You can skip this if you buy a couple of empty gallon-sized paint cans and repeatedly pour portions of the gallons of one color into the empty ones to ensure a thorough multi-can mix. I just use a clean three gallon plastic bucket and a wide paint funnel to get it back in the cans. I use a large silicone spatula (bought at a cooking store) to scrape the last of the paint from the boxing bucket back into the gallon cans. I find a straight sided bucket easier to get the paint back out than using empty gallon paint cans. The underside of the rim is hard to scrape clean.

    I like the plastic lid accessories that you can buy to cover gallons (and quarts) during the painting day. They make pouring paint easy and fast while you're working - and they are reasonably secure and tight. I always bang the metal lids back on at the end of the day. A rubber mallet is a good banging-back-on tool that won't damage the sometimes-fragile rings on the lid.

    I don't spray paint, so I can't help you there.

    One thing that just takes experience to learn is how to apply paint with a brush. Lay it on, work it very slightly to get good coverage and even spread, then stroke from unpainted edge to painted area as you simultaneously lift the brush off the surface. Don't overwork it though. Latex paint, even latex "enamel" is more forgiving than oil, I think. But in general the shinier the finish, the more trouble you need to take. Flat or semi-flat wall paint is very easy to put up.

    Have fun!

    L.

  • pattyxlynn
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    This is awesome info and I've saved it to improve on future paint jobs. Thanks!

  • Vertise
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I agree, stay away from the big boxes as much as you can. You need quality supplies and paint.

    My roller experience has been to get the wovens. The others leave lint in your finish. 3/8" seems to be standard around here for drywall. I've been using the Aura covers ($4). The paint store said I could scrape the paint out and wash them to reuse but this hasn't been working well for me so I just toss. Bits in the paint and the roller doesn't look so smooth anymore. Maybe the good-for-years rollers mentioned above are the lambs wool ones?

    Check out Jack Pauhl for tips too, but Liro seems to have it covered! You don't want to get too overwhelmed.

    He highly recommends the Purdy Oval brush. You might give that one a try.

    For caulk, make sure to get a quality one, not the cheap Painter's Caulk. Class 25 elastomeric is recommended by pros here. BM has one (Crown & Trim) DAP has one DynaFlex 230 available at HD. They have expansion properties to help minimize cracking.

    My biggest problem has been lighting and the Aura drying so darn fast. Other than that it could be relaxing!

  • kitchendetective
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wonderful advice here. Consider renting a scaffold. I cannot do my ceilings without one. See also, the Paint Forum on GW regarding how to prep your surfaces, especially wrt trim.

  • mdrive
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    wonderful info here! not much to add except a couple of small helpful tips...

    i recently painted my trim moulding with ben moore advance acrylic ...it is fantastic paint, much like using an oil base, but FAR easier and cleanup is a breeze...

    2 things i did notice is when doing quite a bit of moulding, i recommend using 2 brushes....i find that my brush will only 'last' about an hour before bristles starting to dry near the handle....so i take a quick break, wash out my brush (recommend using dawn power dissolver, it takes off even dried paint...just spray, let it sit for about 10 minutes and rinse thoroughly) having the second brush means you can get right back to your painting...

    also i love using one of the led headlamps you can buy at any big box store....it pretty much eliminated my having to set up my halogen stand lights (at least when doing close work like trim)

    also on scaffolding, if you only need a couple of feet, consider purchasing the mini scaffolds you can get at home depot....very reasonable and much easier than using a step ladder, useful if you have 8 or 9 ft. ceilings to cut in

    as always, stay mindful of your foot positioning!

    Here is a link that might be useful: mini work platform

  • leafy02
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wow, thanks to all of you for those tips! I am trying to get up the nerve to embark on a new phase of painting, and dreading it, but these suggestions make it seem more do-able.

  • annie1971
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    When you gather your supplies and prep your area (which I always do with painters tape and make sure everything is clean and dust free) and finally get started, I suspect you'll find it to be enjoyable and gratifying. A successful paint project can be very rewarding. The only addition tip I can add is that I never clean my brushes or roller until the project is complete (even if it takes weeks). I remove excess paint and wrap them tightly in plastic bags, securing with twist ties and place them in the refrigerator or freezer. Take them out and let them come to room temp while you're getting set up to get painting again and they're ready to go. Even oil base paints do well. I once did this for two years while painting my entire townhouse trim and doors. You have to be painting with the same color, of course.

  • Vertise
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Can anyone recommend some good supplemental lighting?

    I have a couple cheap 500W halogens from HD. They are tabletop type, about $10. So extremely hot I'm afraid of something catching fire and awkward because there's not an easy place to set them.

    The head LED is interesting, but the lumens are really low. It's hard to imagine they do much. What type do you have, Desert? It's kind of funny. I've had to hold a work lamp while working thinking that was pretty extreme and surely no one else paints like this. Never thought of a head lamp! lol That will look even funnier! But I'm having a terrible time between low light or glare from whatever I try to use. Don't want those paint ridges!

    I think this is the one I have:

    Here is a link that might be useful: Small LED work light

    This post was edited by snookums2 on Wed, Apr 3, 13 at 14:07

  • mdrive
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    snookums....i picked up an inexpensive one at lowes....

    you can find them with higher lumens but this one seems just fine to me....i am pretty OCD about painting, and doing moulding was always a problem because frequently my head would cast a shadow when i was painting up close....even with my halogen lights (which get scary hot, and i will eventually replace with LED as well)....so this last time, i picked up the headlamp and it was one of those "duh, why didn't i think of this before' moments...

    since getting it, i've used it when i was caulking and even cleaning....it worked great seeing cob webs that were hiding on my textured ceiling...lol (it actually worked better to turn the other lights off and just use it to scan the ceiling....i truly found stuff that just blended away with the lights on!)

    trust me, if you get one you will find many a use for it!

    Here is a link that might be useful: head lamp

  • mabeldingeldine_gw
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    There is great advice here. I agree with all who say by good paint and good brushes. I just painted my bathroom with SW paint that covered great in 2 coats using the brushes and roller frames I bought 13 years ago when we bought our house. My favorite brush is a Purdy brand 1 1/2" angled sash brush, and my next favorite is a 2" Purdy straight brush. They are fabulous brushes.

    Sign up for the Sherwin Williams mailing list and you'll get great coupons (maybe Ben Moore does this too, IDK). Right now they have a coupon sale 25% off paint and equipment. I bought the paint for my bathroom with a 40% off paint only coupon. Even if you don't like their paint they sell high-quality tools.

    Have fun! It is work, but so much better than paying someone else to make a mess and do poor quality work. Your work will probably be better and less expensive -- and if you hate the color, you can make a decision early in the game.

  • graywings123
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    A few years ago when I was about to begin a big paint job at home, I began reading the Paint Forum and started collecting the nuggets of wisdom the pro painters over there offered.

    The best tip I received was from Paintguy who advised to do all the cutting in - the brush work around the edges - first, let it dry, then use the roller. This avoids hatbanding, which is the mark you sometimes see about 3 inches from the ceiling if you cut in and then roller over it while the first coat is not totally dry. The old method of cutting in, rolling, cutting in, etc. has become almost impossible to do now that paint dries so much faster.

    He wrote that you can even do both coats of cutting in first, then the two roller coats. As long as the paint is dry between paint sessions, the order of application does not matter.

    Another tip I saved was on rolling technique (I forget who provided this):

    The most common newbie mistake is spreading the paint too thin, which leads to blotches where patches overlap. If you were hearing "frying bacon" sounds when you were rolling, it was spread too thin.

    If you are getting lines off the edge of your roller (we call them ropes in the biz because that is what they look like on the wall after it is dry), that could be caused by many things. You may be using a cheap roller cover or an old one that has been washed too many times and is really ready for the trash. You may not have the roller cover saturated enough or you may simply be putting uneven pressure on the sleeve when you roll. Once you get going, you should barely have to press at all....the sleeve should be saturated enough so that it will do most of the work for you.

    The "ropes" from the roller edges have several causes:
    1. You are pushing too hard and squeezing paint out the edge
    2. Cheap roller has a "fringe" at the end (look at expensive rollers and they have a bevel). I trim the ends of the cheap ones before I start to paint.
    3. Wrong kind of roller ... too thick a nap for the surface you are painting.
    4. Loading with too much paint. It takes practice to learn what "enough" feels like

    I apply the paint in a "W" pattern rather than an "X". You won't have to lift the roller off the wall if you make a W. The reason you're doing this strange letter pattern is to get the paint on the wall while spreading it out just a little bit at the same time. It prevents drips. But you don't want to spread it too wide or you'll have too much area to cover and not enough time to do it. After you get the paint onto the wall using the W method, go over it to spread this accumulation of wet paint to the upper and lower areas of the wall, going in an up and down stroke. Only do narrow sections at a time, think of your wall as a series of columns, stay within approx 2 ft column before proceeding with the next section (where you start the process over again, applying more paint). Sometimes there isn't enough paint to cover the section and you have to apply a little more, don't bother with the W pattern there, apply it to the upper or lower area where needed. When it's evenly applied do once last roll from top to bottom.

  • annkh_nd
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I love my Purdy brushes. Poor brushes can make expensive paint look like crap (and make the job more difficult).

    A trick my Mom taught me was to poke 2 or 3 holes in the lip after opening a can of paint. It allows what catches in the lip to drip back into the can, rather than dry in the lip.

    I second Liri's suggestion about plastic paint can accessories - I think this is what you mean? It makes it so much easier to pour paint from a gallon into a tray or smaller can.

    Here is a link that might be useful: paint can pourer

  • trailrunner
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Make sure at the end of the day to take the paint in the can and pour it through a nylon stocking back into a new can. Never use paint day after day without straining it this way to get all the fine debris out of it that accumulated from your brush. No matter how clean the walls etc it is amazing how much gets in your paint to foul the surface.

    Wonderful thread and I have learned so much !! c

  • Vertise
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Two good tips to keep in mind to keep your finish consistent and smooth. From Jack Pauhl.

    "5. Pick a side, stick with it. Avoid flipping roller frames over. If you start with the metal elbow on your right side, be sure all rolling is done the same with the exception of getting the corner done.

    6. Last pass down. After a large portion of the wall is painted, before it dries, make a single light pass without flipping the frame over from ceiling to floor. Keep the metal frame in one direction"

    Here is a link that might be useful: Jack Pauhl Painting Tips

  • Vertise
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Desert, that just cracks me up! You must be a sketch doing chores around your house. lol This might just be the solution for me and I can see it would be great for cleaning too.

    That one is only about 60 lumens, which is surprising you find it enough. I never would have thought so. I guess you can't have that much near your face. Probably some of the problem I've been having with glare. Those 500 halogens in a small space is impossible.

    Thanks so much! This might be just the thing to solve these difficult lighting issues.

    So funny! I am well on my way to being a paint snob, lol.

  • gwlolo
    Original Author
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    This is such good info!

    Newbie questions:

    1) Do you always use primer? Why? Are All primers the same or do you use the paint manufacturer's recommended primer like F&B primer for F&B paint.

    2) How many coats? Is there a rule of thumb here?

    3) Types of paint - flat for wall, eggshell for trim and such. Is there a preference?

    4) There was some discussion of caulk? Umm.. Why and when do you caulk?

  • runninginplace
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm going to be in painting mode again soon, after a hiatus of several years. Though I'm NO handywoman, painting is indeed a home improvement area in which I think almost anyone can excel, with enough practice and the right tools.

    In addition to all the wonderful advice, a couple of little tips I'd add would be:

    -I use the containers that baby or personal wipes come in to hold paint for small or minor jobs, like trim. They are plastic, they hold enough to cover a reasonable amount of paint for that type of job and they are easy to hold in one hand while you paint. I tend to wash mine out but they can be recycled as a 'disposable' resource.

    -Speaking of that, personally I prefer to get cheaper roller covers and paint tray liners and then discard after the day or job is done. This may be just me but the tedium, time and tremendous use of water involved in washing paint roller covers and trays leaves me cold.

    -I keep some small artist brushes around. Those are so nice when dealing with a holiday (missed spot) or perhaps a fleck of paint that comes off with the painter's tape if you use that, or just for small places for which a regular brush is too large.

    -In addition to paper towels, I usually keep a dampened 'rag' (old cloth diaper, piece of cotton towel etc) with me to quickly wipe down latex spills. The moisture helps mop up the paint and the tint without leaving a smear of color.

    -Agree about cutting in. I am one of the least observant people on the planet, not particularly coordinated, and very un-handy as mentioned. And....I have become quite proficient at using a good angle brush for cutting in. It's such a great feeling to be able to do it, then look back and see that nice clean line of paint without having to try to run painter's tape over everything!

    Good luck. I have never hired a painter for interior jobs, and hope I don't ever have to.

  • Vertise
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Having a box of baby wipes handy is very useful too!

  • bostonpam
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    We have a big house and have been painting many rooms - we're now on the 2nd time painting. This is just our way of painting.

    1) we prime new walls, any patches; going over a dark color or adding a dark color. We prime where we think we may need it but not always.

    2) coats - normally 2 if it's a different color and occasionally 3 or more. With FPE even with a dark coat only 2.

    3) Types of paint - personal preference but we use eggshell for walls (younger kids and easier to clean) and semi gloss for trim.

    4) caulking - we caulk at seam between ceiling and wall; seam at trim and wall; and any other place that needs it. We use good quality caulk. Caulk makes a paint job look so much better.

  • Vertise
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Do people caulk their door casings to the wall? How about if the gap is very narrow or minimal?

    Do you sand down minor ridges or drips and cut in bristle marks from previous painters or only if they're fairly significant? That could get to be a lot of repairs. Maybe they don't show much? It's hard to tell here because the guys put a really sloppy first coat of white on unevenly. Not careful with feathering cut in areas in some places. Obviously it is uneven thicknesses of paint at lap marks (color differences from transparent to opaque). The walls weren't great to begin with.

    This post was edited by snookums2 on Thu, Apr 4, 13 at 19:19

  • busybee3
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    i have learned to wear safety glasses when rolling the ceiling!! better paint spatters less, but can still spatter!

  • graywings123
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Generally there is no need to caulk when you are repainting a room.

    I sand down ridges and drips. That is part of the prep work. Close your eyes and run your hand over the drip. If you can feel it, you will see it even after you paint over it. And yet, it is a lot of work to clean up after a sloppy paint job.

  • Vertise
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I would sand down anything that was clearly raised but some of these things seem so minimal. I'm just not sure. I guess I should test.

    All the trim has been replaced so it's a fresh start there.

    Thanks.

  • bostonpam
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I would caulk where the new trim meets the walls. My DH does it and it's quite fast when you get the hang of it. Cut the caulk tube at a slight angle too.

  • franksmom_2010
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wonderful suggestions from everyone!!

    I'm going to add mine. While I have an assortment of Purdy brushes that I love, I have two of the Wooster chinex brushes that are my new favorites. Paints beautifully with latex, and they clean up like they're made of Teflon. After several projects, the bristles still look like new, and just water and a few drops of dish soap gets them spotlessly clean. I used Purdy "White Dove" roller covers for my last project and loved them. I agree with whoever said to just throw them away when you're done. After wasting many, many gallons of water, I could never get them totally clean, so I pitched them.

    For testing paint samples, I buy canvas covered artist boards from the craft department at Walmart. You can get three 16x20 boards for about $10. They're already primed (white), they're sturdy, and they're thin enough to store in a drawer.

    Unlike posterboard or foam board, they're made to be painted, so they don't get curled and bent when wet, and they're much neater and cleaner than using cut pieces of drywall. They sell smaller sizes, but I like the bigger size so that you get a really big sample to play with. If you're sampling darker colors, pick up a spray can of gray tinted primer (Krylon is fine) to give you an idea of what the color and coverage will look like on your project.

    If you'd like to try spray painting, buy some small, very inexpensive items from a thrift or garage sale to practice on, like cheap photo frames or a small accent table or chair.

    Spray painting isn't hard, and all of the manufactures have how-to information on their web sites, but it is something that needs a little learning curve to get the hang of it to have a finished project that doesn't have overspray or drips. Follow the directions on the can. Buy good paint (I like Rustoleum 2X or Krylon Dual) and use the little snap on spray adapter they sell in the paint department to save your trigger finger.

    Like others have said, 90% of a successful painting job is the prep work. Another 5% is just following the paint directions.

    Random thoughts: Don't spray paint on a damp, windy day. Don't try to recoat any paint before it's time. Always have good ventilation. Always choose your color in the same conditions and light that the paint will be used in. Dry time is very dependent on humidity and temperature. The shinier the finish, the more perfect your surface prep and application has to be because the sheen will show every single flaw. I find a satin finish to be very forgiving on old painted furniture.

  • gwlolo
    Original Author
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I made a printable PDF for myself with all the info on this thread.

    Would a wood garage door that is already primed, be a good or not so good first project. My painter just informed me that it was not part of the original estimate. Apparently "exterior surfaces" line item does not cover the garage door. I am so not in the mood to deal with him.

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