I've wanted to try the chalk paint mixture too. There are a number of threads about it, plus sites. I'll try to find them for you.

I have played with paint forever, the artist in me has no boundaries with mediums. Most of my painted furniture is acrylic craft paint (sales,sales). This has always gone on streak free without brush marks. And yes, no sanding, just a good cleaning. Have even mixed leftover house paint with it and good results. I keep major deep colors around.

No one has ever responded to me on the chalk paint threads, I probably sound OT at the time. But it is my belief that the paint is very close to acrylic craft paint. The results are the same to me. Given the cost, acrylic is far less expensive.

Be careful with the amount of add-ins to the house paint. You will have to play a bit.

No you can't use latex on waxed furniture. You would have to use a cutter medium like mineral spirits or lacquer thinner. There's an old shoe polish trick used to fill areas not wanted painted, see the furniture as old with paint not covering all. She shoe polish won't take the paint.

Off to go and find the chalk paint info. Others will chime in too, I love threads on this subject. And would like to see some examples of finished projects.

OT...I bumped all the gallery threads up. Oddly, although they show on the first page, some now are doubled and show both on first and 2nd, 3rd. Of course the 150 post one won't go anywhere but down. Can you do anything about this one with the powers to be?

I have never tried that out but after reading your interest I would like to try it out.

Recipe site which you may have already been to.

Here is a link that might be useful: chalk paint recipe

Emagineer, I've seen you mention using craft paint before. I have a few pieces that I'd painted white, and used craft paint for the drawer interiors. I'm just OCD enough that I paint the WHOLE piece, and it's always fun to add some color to the drawers.

Anyway, my recollection is that the craft paint went on like a dream, covered a multitude of sins, and has held up very well. Why it never occurred to me to use it on an exterior is beyond me (sheen, maybe?) but that's a really great idea!

Emagineer, thanks for the link. Yes I'd seen that. I did run across another thread where several women said they had done it with varying powders, but I can't find it now, darn it.

You painted an entire piece of furniture with a tiny acrylic bottle? Like from Michaels? Hard to imagine. Also, acrylics are great at showing brush strokes, IME. Not sure I follow there.

Here is my problem: I can't move the furniture. It's a heavy big bedroom set and I'm just a little old lady. So I have to paint it where it stands. The thought of NOT having to sand and prime and of having the paint dry fast -- well, that's what made this project suddenly feel possible at all. Before it felt too daunting.

I did read an account by Miss Mustard Seed on her blog where she said she painted five pieces of furniture in one day!

This is sounding kind of like the TV dinner of paint projects, so to speak. Too good to be true?

Are you looking for this gardenweb link?

Here is a link that might be useful: chalk paint thread

"Also, acrylics are great at showing brush strokes, IME. Not sure I follow there." I've never had a problem with brush strokes with the craft acrylics. Perhaps you were thinking of artist oils or something on that line.

Thanks, Ummm. Jan sure liked it.

The wax sounds very labor intensive. Does anyone know why they bother with it when polyurethane is so easy?

Funny...those "little" bottles. They are found in 8 oz too. I started trying this when my craft/art went in a different direction and had dozens of little bottles left over. Squeezed a bunch of common colors in larger containers to use on some small furniture.

The craft paints have never shown brush strokes and I use bristle brushes. It goes on easy and fast. Only one coat required. I buy the large bottles when on sale or have a coupon. They don't come is as many colors, but are strong hues and this is where I get into the mix it up mood. Save in a covered container.

And they work well in leftover latex paint too. Leftovers of gallons, but still give me the same painting experience. I started doing this when I found a reclamation place that gives paint away free.

I like the softer sheen and have not used any final coat of poly. Other than cleaning, no sanding or stripping has been needed. Plus it seems to adhere so much better and to anything I've tried it on. Haven't seen any nicks or wearing off. There wouldn't be a reason not to use a final clear coat though. And you could use the waterbased? finish easily indoors.

My fireplace surround is painted with acrylic in a dark green. Two large pieces of furniture in bedroom a deep teal. Have used Restore in clear to add some moisture...live in dry CO. Restore in other wood colors works too for a bit of aged wood look. Or just spray with furniture polish.

Thanks for the interest and letting me share this.

On the other hand I'm really curious about the mixing your own chalk paint. And would be interested in how it turns out. Definitely on my to do list.

Jaysmom, I really have worked a great deal with acrylic craft paints, but I have generally used latex when I wanted no brush stokes to show. But... I've been working with brushes under 1" wide. Did you see the pictures of my toy box I painted? The background was latex, but everything else was craft paint:
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tole/msg1203565827352.html?9
But with that type painting we always start with a wet brush and add a little water, so that may be the difference we're seeing.

Wow! Give me a minute to grasp this, Emagineer. You're suggesting that I can paint an entire piece of furniture with craft paint, and use NO prep? And it won't show brush strokes? I am thinking that might be true of white, but hard to imagine some of the other colors not needing at least two coats. You're using wet brushes or starting with a dry brush? This could be a great solution to the problem. But doing an entire bedroom of furniture, not expensive this way? It's pretty amazing to think craft paint would do the job. And last? I AM listening. Just surprised.

I wish I knew how to describe the final end result I want. I'll try. I want a soft shine to it (which doesn't sound like chalk paint but I dunno beans about that wax stuff they use). I like either none or a very mild amount of distressing (sanding off edges). I am not wanting heavy distressing. I might want to do an antiquing glaze.

I am very interested in this thread. I've been wanting to try chalk paint and was just waiting to find the right furniture piece for my bedroom to try it on.

I've used craft paints for some small items and different sections of a small cabinet (think funky) but I never gave it much thought. I just had the colors I wanted to use so I used them. Come to think of it, though, I haven't primed any of the pieces (because I'm lazy) and they've held up pretty good. Now I'm going to have to check out brush strokes.

I've also used those glossy paints that I think are usually used on model airplanes, cars, etc. These were tiny bottles of paints I bought at a hardware store. The finish with those paints was like glass and very durable. Obviously not practical for large pieces of furniture but great for certain accents.

This thread is getting really interesting, thanks, everyone.

Emagineer, how much craft paint do you think you need to add to how much latex to make it so you don't have to prep?

I'm talking about a huge tall headboard, a foot board and bed rails; two nightstands; a tall dresser; a long dresser with mirror. This is not a small amount of furniture.

I have seen people on the web saying they are making their own chalk paints out of:
- chalk she took a hammer to
- plaster of Paris
- calcium carbonate
- whiting powder

One lady even said she used baking soda!

As far as wax, they use different brands. But I have not seen an explanation of how the wax does or doesn't change the appearance, and why use wax instead of polyurethane. Water based poly is a snap to use.

As far as antiquing, seems you can either use a glaze with brown pigment added (craft paints are great for that), or paint on and rub off craft paints directly, or use a colored wax. But if you want to use a colored wax, you need to use a clear wax first. These are all just things I've read. No experience here - yet.

This post caught my eye too ... as I am thinking about painting my kitchen cabinets with chalk paint (followed up with the wax) .... but at $35/qt., it's kinda hard to try different colors.

Has anyone painted their cabinets with this???? If so, how did it hold up???

thanks!

jody

I'm all ears too.

DH paints pictures with craft paint, and there are a zillion colors about 6 feet away, And in the garage I've stockpiled a bunch of sad wooden furniture that needs paint (or refinishing) for my Florida nest. I have not been able to pull the trigger on the Annie Sloan (AS) chalk paint at $35 a pop.

The reports of DIY chalk paint are intriguing. Are there any reports of straight up comparison of retail and DIY? One thing people like with AS is that the distressing is so easy - the paint just powders right off I have read. And it is non toxic. But one GW post said that AS paint without wax looked kind of creepy. I don't know what that means.

What to do, what to do...

I just had a good talk with a local paint expert. She said that any and all chalk paint is not all that durable. She also said don't wax it because if you do you can never paint latex over it again unless you remove the wax first. I said I'd read that you can do chalk paint over it again, and she said and it would be even less durable because it may sit on the wax, but wouldn't cling to it. She said a bunch of ladies who chalk painted everything in their houses are getting very unhappy with it not wearing well. However, if you like a very distressed look, this seems like a good way to go.

Then she said there is a new paint out that is a combination of latex and polyurethane that she would recommend for my bedroom furniture. It's called "Cabinet Coat." I'll give a link to it below. She said all you have to do to prep surfaces that are in good condition is a very light sanding with the grain, remove the dust with a tack cloth, and then paint. No sealer or overcoat needed. The readout on it says:

"The Ultimate finish for refurbishing dingy kitchen and bathroom cabinets, shelving, furniture and other interior applications that require an ultra-smooth, factory like finish with long lasting beauty. Its super adhering quality allows painting "hard to stick" surfaces, even polyurethane and varnish surfaces, without using a primer.

"Cabinet Coat is the finest waterborne enamel available today."

She said for the complete set of bedroom furniture I would need about 2 quarts at about $30-35.

Meanwhile, I tried my craft paint on a frame of a mirror I've been meaning to paint, and ended up with brush strokes galore. I gave up and went over it with latex.

Here is a link that might be useful: Insul-X Cabinet Coat paint

oceanna,
You may try the GW paint forum. They used a lot of Cabinet coat paint on their kitchen cabinets. It was highly recommended by the paint pros over there.

Thanks for the good idea, Ibmudpie. I should ask over there. I think I'm going to make up a wee bit of chalk paint and mess around with it on a piece of board or something non-critical. I was just hoping someone here had played with it.

I've been using AS chalk paint on a yard sale dresser I picked up that has the original dark stain with a clear poly or varnish over it. I first tried painting over it after washing it and giving it a light sand to break the finished sealer. It was really blotchy and not the look I wanted even after 2-3 coats. For the rest of the piece, I took off the varnish/sealer with mineral spirits and had better luck with coverage, but I'm still not as pleased with it as other pieces I've done with latex paint.
I've used Cabinet Coat with better success--I used it to paint all my woodwork, which was stained and poly'ed. I rubbed the surfaces with deglosser and after 20 minutes, when the deglosser dried, I primed and then painted with Cabinet Coat. It took 2 coats but came out nice and crisp. CC sort of levels itself so the brush marks disappear, even on doors.

I haven't had an issue with brush marks. Make sure the paint is mixed well and add very small amounts of water as needed to flow easily. One coat is all that should be needed.

What brush did you use? Even soft artist brushes should not show brush marks if the paint is the right consistancy. I believe this would be true also when mixing your own chalk paint and using such.

Painted a highboy (36X50) with less than 2 8oz bottles. My fireplace surround with 1. Around $6 a project. But didn't look at what size the chalk paint comes in, so comparison on price isn't here.

I wouldn't try any of this on kitchen cupboards. Far too much cleaning needed. Although a good 2 or 3 coats of sealer may work, but do not know results. Cleaning furniture has not been a problem. I still use Pledge to keep clean and add moisture. As before, this gives it a smooth patina. Painted my kitchen table and chairs with it. They still look great.

Am probably getting in trouble here. As an artist I have always been intriqued with mixing paints, mixing a lot that should never work right together. Mostly to see a wide range of mediums for my work. I have no clue how much is added to what, know this doesn't help at all. I cook without recipes too and add as I go along. Thinking about this I realized I may be steering you into unknown territory. Used to teach classes and was great fun to share found uses of what many would avoid. Explaining this on the thread takes on a very different scheme of things.

The acrylic craft paint on furniture started when I wanted to get into a project and didn't want to go to the hardware store for paint. I decided if the trompe designers used it, why not me.

Keep your ideas flowing. One never knows when you will find the right application for a project.

Oceanna, A lot of the posts here are talking about another kind of chalk paint, not the Annie Sloan chalk paint. It is in a category by itself. I became interest a couple of weeks ago. I bought a quart of the "Old White", just to experiment. I LOVE it! Absolutely do not have to prep. I have done some large wood candlesticks for practice and am thinking of doing a large wall unit in our den. I learned a lot from You Tube tutorials, such as different ways to do the wax. Annie Sloan has the clear and dark wax. Other brands of paste wax can be used. If you want another color coming from underneath, paint that color first, if not, just one or two coats of AS paint. After waxing very lightly with a brush and allowing it to dry some, buff with clean dry cloth and wax again with the dark wax for antique look. Be careful with the dark wax, but if you get too much on, add some clear wax and rub it off. You can sand edges before waxing. It buffs to a beautiful soft sheen. The color selection is wonderful. As far as I know, this is the only brand of this type of paint.

Memazz, thanks for sharing your experiences. I haven't tried the AS, but tonight I made my own version using latex satin and some FixAll. Didn't like it. I suspect this might be great for those who love heavy distressing. I don't particularly care for it. And like you, I didn't feel I was getting good coverage. Sanded the piece down and hit it with plain latex. I think the CC may be just what I need for my bedroom furniture, as I want a smooth clean finish. Any special brand of deglosser? I've never used it. Was it a lot of work? I'm intrigued because I'd just as soon avoid the dust of sanding in my bedroom.

Emagineer, you're so sweet. Don't worry. I'm an artist too and have mixed up some unimaginable things both with paints and in the kitchen. Some worked, some didn't. Some I got famous for (in the family) and some I got infamous for. But isn't that how we get the best results? By experimenting? I just didn't want to experiment too much with such a big project -- as even doing it correctly could be a heck of a lot of work. I'm still not sure if I want to do it at all. I like to mull things over considerably ahead of time and that's what I'm doing. There is a part of me that starts to whine when I tell her she has to sand and paint all that big heavy furniture. lol. I'm glad you had such good results. I was using Plaid paint and a soft bristled 1" brush on a mirror frame. Wasn't impressed. Finished it up today with latex and was much happier. What brand of paint were you using, and what type of brush?

Sharb, nice to hear the glowing report on AS, thanks. I have no idea how what I mixed tonight compares with AS, but I sure do read a lot of glowing reports about AS on the web. I watched the video you mentioned. Why would you go to the work of wax instead of just using polyurethane? What was the difference between the surface before and after the wax -- both in looks and feel to your hand? Did you feel that by the time you'd sanded it smooth enough to the hand that it was pretty seriously distressed? Yes, I think you're right that AS is the only commercial brand. The other chalk paint, people make themselves. Saves money because AS is beastly expensive. I read one gal said the finished homemade product is essentially the same right next to AS. I'm also concerned about durability of chalk paint in general. Seems to me that since it sands off so easily that would also mean it wouldn't wear well over the next few years.

Thinking of making some today, actually. The recipe I hope to use is: 1 T un-sanded grout & 1 c of flat paint. If I get all my other projects finished first and get to this, I will let you know the results.
THANKS for the tip about waxing vs. no waxing...because I like to change things so often, I best not wax. :)

Thanks Oceanna, you are always so supportive. And an artist too?

I used a myriad of craft paints. Looking at the stash, the large bottles used are Plaid Apple Barrel. Probably because I got them on sale or buy them at WM cheap. Some Sonias, extremely deep stain of many colors which go a long way.

My norm for a brush is a good 1" for large projects and 1/2" or less artist brush for details. I looked at my furniture and cannot see any brush marks. Am going to work on another large piece and one of the things remembered is brushing over with a wash of water before the paint dries. I think this smoothed all out if there were any brush strokes. With craft paint there is a tendancy to paint with irratic thicknesses. Painting over quickly with water can even this out.

Have used liquid sand paper of yore and it works well. Nothing like stripping, no mess. It may need some light sanding depending upon the finish. But this is more of a cleaning event. Very easy to use.

One of the problems we can all run into is so many of the mediums and paints used in the past have changed their product ingredients. I just read that Formby's refinishing has been recalled. It didn't say for what reason.

Keep playing.

Oceanna, I use KleanStrip Sander/Deglosser--i've read about other brands but can't find them in my area and KleanStrip works fine and is cheap. I think my experience with Annie Sloan chalk paint may be due to my own preference for a more "finished" look for pieces I'm working on--I've got family pieces that are truly distressed because they are old and my efforts to distress furniture always seem a poor imitation that looks contrived to me.
I will say that the AS paint worked very well on a mirror frame and some inexpensive picture frames that had a metallic finish originally. I left some paint out uncovered overnight to thicken it and then painted them with one coat.

I totally agree with what sharb has said above. I was intrigued by the AS chalk paint this past summer, and looked online for a place to buy it, as there are none near me in Maine. I found a shop in RI where the nice owner had 4 oz. sample jars that I could buy and have shipped.

I wanted to go this route to try various colors as I didn't know how I'd like it (despite the glowing reviews I'd read) and I like to use different colors, not stick with one, as I experiment on old furniture.

The reason that most people who use this paint use waxes is for the softer look and protection. I do not care for a poly finish on painted furniture, and enjoy the different effects that i can get with wax. I don't have the AS wax, as I had some Briwax on hand, in both light and dark brown, and that worked well for the look I wanted on my experiment.

I had this old pine hutch base, which was not in good condition.

Keep in mind that I used 4 oz sample jars. I painted the whole thing in Old Ochre (minus the back) and I still have some left in that 4 oz. jar! Note that I also stained the top, as that was the look I wanted, having seen it on a Miss Mustard Seed 'Union Jack dresser'.

I used some other paint sample jars that I had on hand (Ben Moore) for the navy and red on top of the AS paint, and this is how it looked next.

Because I wanted an aged look, commensurate with the age of the piece of furniture, I then used my Briwax, and ended up with this. Note how the wax highlights the detail of the carving on the doors' outer edges.

These are the original porcelain knobs from the piece, and you can see why I wanted an old look for it, not the shine of poly. The wax is easy to apply, dries quickly and easy to buff.

As an avid milk paint fan for years, I'm wondering why one might choose chalk paint instead? It seems to be far less durable than milk paint, and comes in limited colors.

Is this "chalk paint" just a bottled commercial version of old fashioned milk paint? Enlighten me?

Chalk paint isn't milk paint.

Chalk paint isn't a new discovery. It's been around for many years. It's just gesso. You can buy gesso in any craft store that sells artist supplies. Hobby Lobby sells it. Gesso paint consists of chalk, glue, and water. It's used as a primer on canvases so the oil paints will stick. You can even make your own.

Don't mind me. I'm just jealous that someone is making gazillions on something that's been around forever. Why didn't I think of it first dangit.

and to answer your question, I've used it many times but never on furniture.

I really want to try milk paint. I heard the finish is beautiful. I got Martha's recipe for milk paint and it's a little scary.

http://inventivehomeimprovement.com/How_to_Make_Milk_Paint.htm

Laurie...you sound like me with the ingredient/use thing. When the crackle finish came out I was not up to the price. Artists I knew used Hide Glue which comes in all sizes and very little cost. Same darn thing as the crackle finish. I should start a business on my aging recipe which is nothing. It drives me nuts seeing old wood being used for projects and the cut ends like new wood. The solution is so simple.

Oceana...have you tried the chalk paint yet? I am wondering about why they recommend wax and not a sealer.

Oceana, calcium carbonate and whiting powder are just chalk in powdered form.

Jody, I'd be afraid to do kitchen cabinets in the chalk paint. I've never used chalk paint for that purpose, but kitchen cabinets tend to get greasy, well, at least mine do, and they need to be washable. I don't know if washing them would remove any of the wax coating. It's so much work to do cabinets anyway I'd hate to see you go through all that work only to have to redo them.
Can you test the paint and wax on a sample piece of wood to see if the finish is durable enough for the kitchen?

Laurie

Laurie .... I am going to order a few samples of the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint and the waxes. I have asked this question to the dealers, and they say that the wax finish is very hard and durable .... but I will certainly test it out.

Thanks!

jody

I think Miss Mustardseed painted her kitchen cabs with ASCP. If it wasn't her, I have seen some blogs that have done it.

I paint furniture for a living and, I. Love. Chalk Paint. I do use other things though, but when given the choice, I will choose Annie Sloan Chalk Paint any day of the week. I can get 5 medium size pieces or three large (dresser size) pieces out of one can. With the light colors I need two coats, some darker I can use just one, or if I am going very distressed, I use one. I have used both water base poly as a finish and also wax, depending what the use will be. Poly does tend to turn lighter yellowish color on lighter colors. Wax feels better it is smooth and yummy feeling. I have 4 not-very-delicate boys in my house and it has held up fine. I made some homemade chalk paint for the first time yesterday using calcium carbonate powder. I didn't hate it, but it is not the same.
I hope it is not against the rules, but, I have a blog that shows my furniture and almost all of it is done with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint. I think it's worth every penny.

Here is a link that might be useful: The Shabbiest Chick

I am not a painter but I am married to one phenomenal finisher and a ASCP stockist. Its wonderful to be able to mix and try different products and make them work, but to try to mimic the effects of a proven product to do your precious pieces is a risky IMO. Chalk Paint works as advertized. My finisher has tried so many products and even works with a chemist that develops other products for her but to try to get a knock off Chalk Paint is like buying a knocked off IPhone. Consistency is important specialy if you ever want to ever retouch and blend-in properly. I will love to share some pictures of the finishes she has created. She fell in love with ASCP and is now selling it, yes she had something similar to it in stock before it, but the selection of colors they offer and simple application process made it easy for her to be able to take it to a different level. She did not want to re invent the wheel.

As far as kitchen cabinets, I called my wife crazy when she used water based stain in our custom oak cabinets 7 years ago, I belive she glazed on top of the water stain and they still look beautiful. I would not wax if the furniture will be exposed to extreme temps. I will see if I can post some pics

I made chalk paint with flat
Latex and plaster pf Paris. I'm painting a mantle. I am going to wax it when I finish. If you use poly you would lose the look of the chalk paint I would think.