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| I just got a Boos 24"x18" butcher block and LOVE it! Finally, I have some room. My question is, should I oil it? My understanding is that oiling helps protect and preserve the board, but inhibits wood's natural anti-bacterial properties, right? Appearance for me is secondary to functionality. So, if oiling is primarily for appearance, I probably wouldn't be inclined to do it. However, if it helps to prevent warping (the thing is over 2 inches thick, so hopefully this won't be an issue...) or some other unforeseen thing, than I would definitely take that into consideration. So, please weigh in on whether or not I should oil this board. If you do oil, what do you use? Thanks. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Oiling does more than make it look good; it's a basic maintainance need; particularly for wood that gets wet. Constant wetting/drying causes wood to dry out, warp, check, and craze. Oiling does not destroy the natural anti-bacterial properties either. While it's doubtful that a properly made butcher block will warp (has to do with how the grain is laid out), it is possible. And merely going thick, without realigning the grain, won't even minimize warping. So, my recommendation is, yes! Oil it, using food-grade mineral oil. |
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| Thanks gardenlad, for your reply. I will get to oiling the board today. |
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| I strongly second gardenlad's advice. I should oil mine more often but tend to forget. When I do remember to oil my two bamboo boards, I use inexpensive mineral oil, which I'm pretty sure is the same as the fancy stuff sold specifically as wood oil. I oil one side, let it absorb, and then turn it over and oil the other side. I also make sure to do the edges. I am very careful about drying the boards as soon after they get wet as possible, for the reasons gardenlad gave. |
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| Suzy, not all mineral oil is considered food grade. Not that I'd be overly worried, I don't think there's anything about regular mineral oil that can hurt you. But the food-grade isn't all that expensive, considering how little of it you use at any one time. When I make a cutting board for someone I "cure" it with food grade mineral oil, and provide maintainance recommendations. If they pay attention (and, at what I charge for custom-desingned cutting boards, I would hope they'd pay attention), it only takes a couple of drops of oil each time it's used. I buy mine at a woodworkers supply shop, which is probably the most expensive way to go. Cost: Six bucks for 16 ounces. Counting my heavy use on new boards, a 16 oz bottle still lasts near on forever. |
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| Buy your food-grade mineral oil at the supermarket or drug store. It's in the laxative section, but is the product you want. It runs about $3.50 for a large bottle that way. I like to use several applications on a new piece--up to 8-10 on the spoons I carve--to give them a wonderful finish. After that, the occasional re-application should keep the wood in good shape, as long as it's respectfully used. |
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| Good tip on mineral oil sourcing, Azzalea. On a new cutting board I usually use 3-4 applications. I suspect, though, that my boards are less absorbent than your spoons because they are burnished to a hard finish (I sometimes go down to as fine as #600 grit). Either way, it's the follow up that's important. Many people don't seem to understand that wood, even after it's been fashioned into something, remains a living, breathing thing that must be treated right. And an occasional reapplication of mineral oil is part of that treatment. |
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| Thanks, gardenlad, for the info. I bought my mineral oil in the laxative section of my market. It was much cheaper than the oil sold specifically for cutting boards. |
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| That'll do it, Suzyq. Now you just have to remember to use it. :>) The key is recognizing what "dry" means. Think of your hair. After your shower your hair is wet. Then the moisture drys off. Although "dry," healthy hair has a sheen to it. Poorly treated hair lacks that natural sheen, it looks dry, straw-like, and unhealthy. Same with a cutting board. Once the wood looses it's sheen, and starts looking dried out it needs conditioning, just like unhealthy hair. The conditioner we use for wood is the mineral oil. One nice thing, though, is that you can't over-condition wood. It will only absorb so-much oil. Any extra just sits on the surface, and you can wipe it up with a paper towel. So even if you oil your board after every use, you won't hurt anything. |
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- Posted by wonbyherwits (My Page) on Tue, Jan 16, 07 at 12:08
| I have a mahogany butcher block island top that is 8ft x 3ft. I started out oiling it once a week for a few months. Then, I cut back to once a month. Now (1 year later) I just oil it about every 3 months or whenever it starts looking dry. I put the oil on the island with a soft cloth and let it rest for about 5 minutes. Then, I take another cloth and wipe off the excess. Make sure you do the edges, too. |
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| I looked for ages for mineral oil for my cutting boards and could never find it. Finally I did find it in a true value, tiny bottle for $6.50. then one day it struck me that "DUH" you use mineral oil as a laxitive too. went to grocery store and guess what there it was big bottle about $3.00. Scary side note here. I was at Home Depot one day in the paint section and a women was asking the clerk for mineral oil for her cutting board, and the young clerk took her to the MINERAL SPIRITS. Luckily the supervisor walked by just then and heard the word cutting board and said "that is NOT what you want, we don't carry mineral oil here." |
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- Posted by The Butcher Block Top(sales@thebutcherblocktop.com) onFri, Feb 1, 08 at 13:42
| Hi all My name is Chris and I run The Butcher Block Top. I just thought I would chime in. Its great to see you all know that using pure mineral oil is the best way to keep your board alive and well. Be careful not to over oil your boards though. If your oiling after every use it may be too much, especially if you dont keep doing it once you start. I would recommend once or twice a week at most while keeping it as dry as possible. Dont ever cut fish or fowl on it use a plastic board for that stuff so you can run it through the dishwasher. Just wipe it down with a damp soapy sponge and dry it off with a paper towel. Remember that once you start oiling your board frequently that you run the risk of causing it to split if you happen to change the frequency of oiling. So whatever you decide just make sure to keep doing it and dont make any drastic changes in the oiling cycle. For you John Boos lovers out there. Boos Mystery oil is applied before it leaves the factory and does not require repeated oiling every week. Boos Mystery oil is a combo oil just like Emmitts Elixr, Watco butcher block oil or The Good Stuff. These are combination oils comprised of boiled linseed oil, tung oil and mineral oil. Tung oil itself is a varniq and acts as a hardener. Putting mineral oil over a coating like this is just a waste of oil. You really only want to start oiling a board like this if it begins to lose its factory coating. You can always buy more Boos oil and re-coat with that or begin to use mineral oil and increase the frequency of oilings to 1-2 times a week. You can tell when your board needs to be oiled when you can feel the fibers of the wood with your bare hand. I have alot more info on care and maintenance on my website at http://www.thebutcherblocktop.com. Feel free to contact us if you have any questions about your boards, countertops or tables regardless of who made it. Thanks |
Here is a link that might be useful: The Butcher Block Top
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