In case the link is ever broken, cut and paste the PDF file here: Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor, Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University The Myth of Gypsum Magic âAdding gypsum to your yard or garden will improve soil tilth and plant healthâ The Myth Upon continued prodding from one of my university extension colleagues, I recently watched several episodes of a well-known gardening program on television. My kids joined me, alerted by my animated responses to the hostâs non-stop torrent of advice. Among many amazing discoveries I learned that by adding gypsum to my yard or garden I would improve my problem soils by changing the particle size and loosening compaction. Further searching on the web revealed that gypsum would also improve drainage, decrease acidity, and eliminate soil salts. Previously, I had heard of gypsum for use in soil reclamation projects, but not for a typical urban landscape. Since gypsum is simply calcium sulfate, could this chemical truly transform soil structure and serve as a fertilizer for yards and gardens? The Reality This myth falls into the category of agricultural practices misapplied to ornamental landscapes. Gypsum effectively changes the structure and fertility of heavy clay soils, especially those that are heavily weathered or subject to intensive crop production. Gypsum also improves sodic (saline) soils by removing sodium from the soil and replacing it with calcium. Therefore, one can see improvement in clay soil structure and fertility, and desalinization of sodium-rich soils, by using gypsum. What other effects will gypsum have on soil and plant health? There are a number of scientific studies on gypsum usage both in the literature and on websites. Briefly, researchers have found: ⢠Gypsum does not usually change soil acidity, though occasional reports of both increasing and decreasing pH exist; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of aluminum, which can detoxify soils but also contaminates nearby watersheds; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of iron and manganese, leading to deficiencies of these nutrients; ⢠Gypsum applied to acid soils can induce magnesium deficiency in plants on site; ⢠Gypsum applied to sandy soils can depress phosphorus, copper and zinc transport; ⢠Gypsum can have negative effects on mycorrhizal inoculation of roots, which may account for several reports of negative effects of gypsum on tree seedling establishment and survival; ⢠Gypsum is variable in its effects on mature trees; ⢠Gypsum will not improve fertility of acid or sandy soils; ⢠Gypsum will not improve water holding capacity of sandy soils; and ⢠Gypsumâs effects are short-lived (often a matter of months) With the exception of arid and coastal regions (where soil salts are high) and the southeastern United States (where heavy clay soils are common), gypsum amendment is just not necessary in non-agricultural areas. Urban soils are generally amalgamations of subsoils, native and non-native topsoils, and - in home landscapes - high levels of organic and non-organic chemical additives. They are also heavily compacted and layered (and gypsum does not work well on layered soils). In such landscapes, it is pointless to add yet more chemicals in the form of gypsum unless you need to increase soil calcium levels. This nutrient deficiency can be quickly identified by any soil testing laboratory for less than a bag of gypsum costs. (If you need to improve sulfur nutrition, itâs wiser to use ammonium sulfate). To reduce compaction and improve aeration in nearly any landscape, application of an organic mulch is more economically and environmentally sustainable. The Bottom Line ⢠Gypsum can improve heavy clay soil structure and remove sodium from saline soils ⢠Gypsum has no effect on soil fertility, structure, or pH of any other soil type ⢠Most urban soils are not improved by additional gypsum ⢠Before adding gypsum or any chemical to a landscape, have soil analysis performed to identify mineral deficiencies, toxicities, and soil character ⢠Adding gypsum to sandy or non-sodic soils is a waste of money, natural resources, and can have negative impacts on plant, soil, and ecosystem health For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scottâs web page at http://www.theinformedgardener.com.

I found this too late but thought I would post my version of an easy stuffing/dressing. One year I started making it with grits to save time, and everyone thought I had used cornbread. I've gone back to the cornbread recipe, however, because I like to make cornbread. Anyway, here's the simplified version: Grits Faux Cornbread Stuffing Ingredients: 2 tbsp vegetable oil or grape seed oil 1/4 cup butter 3/4 cup chopped onion 2 cups finely chopped celery 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 cups chicken broth (or water) 1 tbsp soup base, mushroom, chicken, vegetable, or a combination 1/8 tsp cayenne (or dash of hot sauce) 1/4 tsp dried oregano 1/4 tsp dried basil 1/4 tsp dried thyme 1-2 tsp dried sage (according to your taste) 3/4 cup quick grits (be sure not to use "instant") - can substitute polenta 2 eggs 2 tbsp water 2 cups dry bread, in small cubes Directions: In a large saucepan, heat the vegetable oil and add the butter. When the butter is melted, add the onion, celery, and garlic, and sauté for a few minutes, or until the onions begin to be translucent. The celery must stay crunchy. Add the water (or broth, if you have it), soup base, cayenne, and herbs, and stir to combine. Take the pan off heat, and add the quick grits slowly while stirring. Stir for one minute off heat, and return to low heat. Cover and cook five minutes more (for a total of six minutes), stirring occasionally. Preheat oven to 350ð. Beat the eggs with the 2 tbsp water, and then combine with the bread cubes. Transfer the bread to a 9x13 baking dish, add the cooked grits, and stir to combine. Bake covered for about 10 minutes - longer if the grits have been made ahead and have cooled. If you like it less moist, you can bake it uncovered. Lars This year I didn't have enough cornmeal to make the cornbread (I needed 1-1/2 cups and only had 1/4 cup), and so I substitute 1/4 grits, and it came out fine.

You're off to a good start!!! Now for what i think you need to do.She needs some eyelashes and whiskers.Also the sleeves seem to be too long and the lace too big /wide for them.Perhaps just have the lace on the collar and the hem.The pinafore and the dress seem to be out of proportion to each other.Maybe also take away the pearls.Actually all her clothes seem to be too big for her body. Hope these critisism don't seem too harsh,but the are meant to help you. I make a lot of these type of dolls/animals etc and have for years.I will be happy to help you out if you have anymore questions. Kathi

If you only got it a few days ago--take it back. Trying to get into all the elaborate, VERY time consuming and complicated options discussed (new pillows, replacing filling, getting kids to abuse cushions!) all sounds like far far too much time and effort for something you don't like and that isn't comfortable. I know very well that the Ektorp is heavy and very tough to maneuver; we just bought one for my daughter's new apartment. However it really is worth it to take it back to IKEA immediately and resolve the refund as well as you can, then move on. Keep in mind IKEA is not a fly by night operation so tell the return staff and/or manager your situation and hopefully they will work with you. Not to mention you certainly aren't the only person who's ever bought a couch and then didn't like it. They won't be shocked that it's been opened...how the heck else would you know it was the wrong purchase? ;) Then take your time and find a couch you like and that is comfortable. And last but far from least, sorry for this bad experience. I've certainly BTDT with furniture and I know well that sick feeling of having spent a lot of money on the wrong major piece that is now sitting in front of me making me feel like a fool. But I also know that in the greater scheme of life, getting rid of that wrong major piece is probably the best choice. Good luck!