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Cooking In Honor Of . . . Marcella Hazan

John Liu
10 years ago

I have a proposal. To those who are lovers of classic Italian cooking, of the sort that Marcella Hazan epoused. Let's cook in her memory!

This coming fat week - let's say, from today through Sunday October 13 - let's cook a dish or even a meal from Marcella's books.

And enjoy it.

And post a picture of us and/or the dish and/or and the book, ideally all three.

(If you don't have one of her books, just pipe up. Someone will provide a recipe, or a couple of choices.)

How about it?

Comments (65)

  • Islay_Corbel
    10 years ago

    Thank you for the links. I love the fact that she didn't like squeaky beans either!!!

  • foodonastump
    10 years ago

    I agree with squeaky beans, but my agreement stops there. I like my veggies to have a bit of life left in them.

    Anyway, I'm in!

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  • dcarch7 d c f l a s h 7 @ y a h o o . c o m
    10 years ago

    "-------- I like my veggies to have a bit of life left in them.--"

    Yummy! Crispy crunchy avocado!

    dcarch :-)

  • sally2_gw
    10 years ago

    I am eager to start trying her recipes. This weekend I'll start perusing the websites y'all have linked, and maybe even try to find one of her books. I might even order one, something I rarely do.

    Sally

  • ann_t
    10 years ago

    FOAS, I agree with you on squeaky beans. It seems for a while there everyone was on the kick of undercooking vegetables. I want my vegetables cooked. Not overcooked but not undercooked either.

    And DC you are welcome to all the unripe avocados you can eat. I prefer mine ripe. :-)

    ~Ann

  • John Liu
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    You can "preview" her Essentials book on Google. Some pages are deliberately omitted but if you just want to poke around and check out a few recipes as well as her writing tone, the preview works.

    http://books.google.com/books?id=1FVLv7WS4C4C&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false

    Here is a link that might be useful: Google Preview

  • debrak2008
    10 years ago

    Don't forget your local library! I had requested her classic cookbook from the library the day gwlolo posted about her death. I just got an email that the book is read for pickup.

    After I read it a little I'll see if I'm up to the challenge.

  • John Liu
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    You will certainly be [up to it]. Her recipes are very simple, no trickery, no painstaking reductions or gelees. The best of Italian cooking - fresh quality ingredients, simply prepared, farmer and peasant fare.

    Reading Marcella's cookbooks next to a classic French cookbook e.g. Julia Child's books, the difference is striking.

  • foodonastump
    10 years ago

    Ok, guess I'm the first? I made the fish and potatoes from Rob's epicurious link. Evidently Ms Hazan was accustomed to much thinner filets of sea bass as 14 minutes @ 400 didn't begin to even warm the inside. I think she was mocking me from up above because I decided to throw beans into the mix, and by the time the fish was barely cooked through there was no chance of any bean uttering the faintest squeak!

    It was a very good meal; fortunately the outer sections really didn't suffer from the long bake. Looking forward to seeing what the rest of you come up with.

  • John Liu
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    That looks wonderful! And well photographed.

    I made, as mentioned, chicken cacciatore and carrots braised with capers.

    Chicken cacciatore is a dish I've never had or made, and know only from a Billy Joel song. Turns out it is a fricasse: chicken pieces, dredged in flour, browned in oil. Then onions, garlic, bell pepper, are cooked in the oil and wine, and the chicken and diced tomatoes are simmered, covered, for an hour. In my case, two hours (dinner was delayed ). The chicken was falling apart tender and the vegetables had melted into a rich sauce.

    Carrots braised in capers sounds simple, and it is, but Marcella's instructions are exacting. Soften garlic in oil, add carrots, parsley, and water (I used stock), cook the water away, add capers and finish cooking.

    Rice with parsley and - because I think French by default - butter.

  • gemini40
    10 years ago

    sorry to hear of her passing. I have several of her books which i will treasure.

  • ann_t
    10 years ago

    I made Marcella's Pollo con le Olive Nere (Fricasseed Chicken with Black Olives). Moe called it a "keeper" and I agree.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Pollo Con Le Olive Nere Recipe

  • debrak2008
    10 years ago

    Started reading the Essentials of classic italian cooking (combo of book 1 and 2) yesterday. Came here to say I was in over my head and could not participate. Read Johns comments on how the recipes are easy so went back to the book.

    The beginning of the book describes ingredients that I have never heard of or would never use (anchovies, ewww). She talks about tearing fresh basil not cutting it. I don't even know what fresh basil looks like. That's right my dried basil comes out of a small bottle. I thought I can't do these recipes. Went back and looked at actual recipes. While Marcella does encourage using fresh, she also tells you how you can substitute canned beans for example.

    I'm making tomato sauce with olive oil and chopped vegetables, page 153 if you have the book. I realize this may seem very easy for most of you but I have never made homemade sauce. Grew up on Prego and still use it today.

    I will make it on Saturday and report back with photos.

    I plan to try to learn some of the techniques and use of the fresh ingrediants. Marcella is wonderful in the way she describes everything. Easy to understand.

  • foodonastump
    10 years ago

    I might have to go to the library. I think I know where it is ;)

    Debra do yourself a favor and buy fresh basil just this once! I'll be shocked if you're not a convert. There are some dried herbs that resemble fresh, but IMO basil is not one of them.

  • debrak2008
    10 years ago

    Funny basil story.

    Last night for the very first time I made pesto sauce. The recipe that I was planning on called for fresh basil. For some reason I didn't write it on my list and when I got to the store I bough cilantro. I was so sure that the recipe called for cilanto. Well, it didn't. I googled and found that some make pesto with cilantro so that is what I did. It was good but a little "green" tasting to me. It also had spinach in it. Maybe basil would have been better???

    My issue has always been with some "fresh" ingredients is that I end up throwing them out. Like now I have left over cilantro. What am I supposed to do with that? Freeze it?

  • foodonastump
    10 years ago

    Cilantro - freeze it in ice cube trays with water. I admit I throw out a lot of basil. I almost mentioned that above but didn't want to discourage you!

  • debrak2008
    10 years ago

    I think I have to buy an ice cube tray. I threw all mine out as we now have an ice maker. It keep coming up as a useful item. Or I could use a mini muffin pan??? hmm

    To keep this on topic. I just this minute started reading Amarcord Marcella Remembers.

    Yes, I read books and cruise the internet at the same time.

    This post was edited by debrak2008 on Wed, Oct 9, 13 at 9:23

  • arlosmom
    10 years ago

    I've been visiting the cooking forum for a little while now, but haven't yet posted. Marcella Hazan is bringing me out of lurkdom. I've had and loved her Essential of Classic Italian Cooking for years. This thread is inspiring me to try a couple of new recipes.

    I just bought a boston butt and a container of whole milk at the grocery so I can try making her Pork Loin Braised in Milk, Bolognese style (I've wanted to try this recipe for a long time, but just never got my act together). I'm also trying her Zucchini Gratin with Tomato and Marjoram. Tomorrow is supposed to be chilly and rainy here all day, so I'll spend a good chunk of the afternoon remembering Marcella in my kitchen. I'll report back with pictures!

  • John Liu
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Hurrah for the Marcella cooking! Let us know how it goes.

    I have a few more of her recipes I want to make this coming week.

    I have figured out that you can make pesto from almost any green herby thing. Olive oil , salt, pepper, cheese , nuts, garlic - as long as the green stuff isn't noxious , the result should be palatable.

    My next effort will be to make pesto using roasted garlic. Some people can't stomach fresh garlic, and I'd like to be able to give them pesto too.

    Ann_t , how did the flesh of your olive chicken get dark? Was it colored by the olives?

  • ann_t
    10 years ago

    John, yes, the colour is from the olives.

    John, nice to see that your thread has brought out a few new posters. Arlosmom welcome to the CF. Looking forward to hearing what you think of the pork cooked in milk.

    Debrak, Take FOAS's advice. Try fresh basil. Just remember that for most dishes, fresh basil is added at the end of cooking, just before serving.

  • debrak2008
    10 years ago

    I will try fresh basil : )

    I finished the book Amarcord about Marcella's life. Very interesting about the different regions of italy having completely different types of foods

  • arlosmom
    10 years ago

    Here is my attempt at Marcella's Pork Loin Braised in Milk, Bolognese style and Zucchini Gratin with Tomato and Marjoram (although I used fresh oregano instead). The pork loin wasn't the prettiest, but it was very tasty. We both loved the zucchini...it was incredibly fresh tasting:

  • ann_t
    10 years ago

    Arlosmom, that looks delicious. Pork cooked in milk makes a wonderful gravy.

    ~Ann

  • John Liu
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Mmmm. I'm going to try the milk-braised pork tonight. With a Jerusalem style tomato-cucumber-buttermilk salad and a spicy potato-parsnip soup. It may not go together that well but there's nothing like experimenting.

  • John Liu
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    We had a couple of dear friends over for dinner. These guys have had a tough year, job loss, scrambling to make do, one had to finish school, the other had keep up the mortgage and hold it together. I've been proud of them, and told them so.

    Dinner was

    Broiled bacon wrapped around sweet pickled watermelon rinds . Crusty savory salty bacon, and crystallized sugary brown chewy rinds. It was really good, almost a candy . SWMBO made these.

    A Jerusalem salad , cucumber tomato couscous garlic onion mint parsley radish Greek yogurt buttermilk and (not authentic) browned chicken bits.

    Marcella's pork shoulder braised in milk. This was served with the milk gravy and a dollop of mashed roast garlic.

    Finally there was a parsnip potato bacon soup and two pretty good bottles of wine .

  • debrak2008
    10 years ago

    Yesterday I attempted to make "tomato sauce with butter and onion" which is different than what I mentioned above. I used frozen tomatoes which probably was a mistake. It was/is very watery. It called for 45 min. but I let it go much longer. There is no way this is going to thicken up enough. I'm going to get some tomato paste today and see what I can do with it.

    The dishes posted above look wonderful.

    Not sure I will ever try to make homemade sauce again. If I do I would use canned tomatoes.

  • triciae
    10 years ago

    Debra, put your sauce back over some heat (low heat) and let the excess water evaporate. It may take several hours but don't be discouraged - it will evaporate and thicken.

    John, your pork looks delicious!

    /tricia

  • sally2_gw
    10 years ago

    I still may try to participate, but I haven't been out to look for her book yet. I've been sick with some kind of nasty crud, so I haven't done much in the kitchen at all for a few days, much less, gone out shopping. It may not be within the time period, but I do want to explore her recipes.

    Everyone's dishes look so good.

    John, you're so kind, and such a good host. I bet your guests felt comfortable and totally enjoyed their evening with you.

    Sally

  • ann_t
    10 years ago

    Sally, I hope you feel better soon. You can find many of Marcella's recipes on line. No need to buy a cookbook, unless you want to add one to your collection.

    ~Ann

  • debrak2008
    10 years ago

    Tricia, Its back on the stove. It seems thicker but they may just be because its cold.

  • ann_t
    10 years ago

    Good advice from Tricia. Better to simmer it longer than to add tomato paste.

    ~Ann

  • JoanM
    10 years ago

    Hi folks, I haven't been around much lately. I haven't even been cooking much this past year. I have a very unfriendly kitchen at the moment. This thread inspired me to pull out Marcella's Essentials book. What a beautifully written book. She is very specific, I love that.

    I chose a simple recipe considering my location. I went with her Bolognese Meat Sauce with store bought Tagliatelle. I was tempted to rush it along but the tone of her book caused to me slow down and make it exactly as written. It took about 30 minutes for the milk to cook away and then another 30 for the wine to completely cook down. It was so delicious with so few ingredients, I was really impressed. I think I finally understand what Mario Batalli keeps talking about when he explains that the pasta should be the star and the sauce should just be very fresh ingredients to compliment it. In her honor I ground my own chuck and I found imported organic Tagliatelle from Italy. Yum!!!

    Here is a link that might be useful:

  • John Liu
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    debrak, sauce on low bubbling simmer for a couple hours should thicken it up.

    joann, your dish looks beautiful and that plate is very cool. I have not made bolognaise from her book, but will try that soon.

  • debrak2008
    10 years ago

    It actually seemed to have gotten worse. There is a layer of water on it. Any substance the sauce had is broken down. does that make sense? I had it on the lowest setting for a few hours. I went to the store to by some tomato paste. Tomorrow I will add it and see what happens, sigh. Maybe sauce just isn't my thing.

  • John Liu
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Hmm.

    How about getting a can of tomatoes and an onion, and trying again? The recipe is simple, it will only take an hour, and it might be preferable to trying to salvage the first attempt.

    It isn't uncommon for the second time to be the keeper.

  • ann_t
    10 years ago

    Debrak, I wouldn't add tomato paste. It will totally change the flavour of your sauce. If the sauce separated, why not take a stick blender and see if that won't bring it back together.

    ~Ann

  • mabeldingeldine_gw
    10 years ago

    Debrak, don't give up, the sauce is amazing. I think freezing tomatoes changes the structure which might be why you are having problems.

    Anyway, yesterday I made Marcella's Roast Chicken with 2 Lemons. It was, as always, delicious. I made a real effort to follow her method. I started the chicken breast down at 350F then after 30 minutes turned it breast side up and increased the heat to 400F. It was beautiful and as delicious as it looked.

    I served it with some of the last veggies from my garden -- garlic rosemary roasted potatoes, and roasted Italian zucchini and summer squash with shallots, drizzled with balsamic vinegar. I had guests so didn't get photos, but it was a delicious meal and we toasted Marcella, who has given me years of pleasure from her books. In the next couple of weeks I'm going to try the milk braised pork loin, which I have never made. I hope it is delicious as it looks above!

  • debrak2008
    10 years ago

    I don't have a stick blender can I put it in a reg. blender? I just hate to waste what was 4 lbs of tomatoes. I doubled her recipe. If this can't be saved for reg. sauce then I'm sure I can freeze it and DH will use it for chili. He always used frozen tomatoes for chili and it comes out nice and thick. Of course there are lots of other ingrediants.

    I will try the recipe again sometime with canned tomatoes.

  • ann_t
    10 years ago

    Yes, I would try the blender. It will be a lot better than adding tomato paste.

  • sally2_gw
    10 years ago

    Thanks, Ann.

    Once this crud makes its way through the family and out the door, I will cook a Hazan recipe. No sense making something that tastes wonderful if people can't taste anything due to cold symptoms.

    Joanm, your dish looks wonderful.

    Sally

  • Solsthumper
    10 years ago

    I forgot all about this. Better get cooking.

    Everything looks delicious. And even though I'm not a breakfast person, I could dive into each and every one of your contributions.

    Sol

  • debrak2008
    10 years ago

    Just wanted to update. I ended up pouring the sauce over stuffed shells and baking it. The sauce is good just not well blended.

    I'm going to try the sauce again sometime with fresh or canned tomatoes. No more frozen. The frozen works well for chili my husband makes.

  • John Liu
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Don't use fresh tomatoes, they do not substitute well for canned tomatoes in a recipe. You'd think they would, but fresh tomatoes have more water and require a lot of cooking down to use in sauce. Get a large can of tomatoes and try the recipe again. It is a good one to learn.

  • gwlolo
    10 years ago

    DD has been asking me for fettuccine Alfredo and I made it tonight. The sauce was very simple - cream, butter, a few grinds of fresh pepper, a scant pinch of nutmeg. Per Marcella's instructions, I used a high quality cultured European butter, fresh pepper and fresh nutmeg and cooked the sauce and pasta per her timing. She recommends undercooking the pasta (harder than al dente) and finishing the cooking in the sauce. 1/3 cup of the cream is added at the end. It was simple and brilliant. The texture of the pasta and the sauce was just perfect!

  • chase_gw
    10 years ago

    I'm late to the party but T-Day and a houseful of company got in the way.

    Last night I made Marcella's Homemade Ravioli with Veal and Mushrooms stuffing. I used a combination of Oyster, Crimini and Shtitake mushrooms and topped it with my homemade tomato and herb sauce.

    We used her egg pasta recipe and it really worked well. Very tender yet sturdy enough to handle the stuffing

    it was very good but I have a ton of the stuffing left.

  • John Liu
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    All sounds great!

    The stuffing could be used in a roast chicken. Or baked into a meat pie. Or stuff a pork chop. Etc.

  • chase_gw
    10 years ago

    Actually John, I used the leftover stuffing to make "empanadas" they are really good! I did add some minced hot pepper and hot sauce to the mix

    I also want to thank you for staring this "cook a long" thread John. it's been fun. We should do it more often

  • John Liu
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    And we shouldn't wait for a chef to die first . . .

    . . . is there another chef / cookbook author that we could use as inspiration for another cookalong? Ideally, his or her books would be easily found in libraries, or their recipes are online. The dishes should be simple, no high art creations of meat glue. Maybe stick with "mainstream" food at first , rather than diving into exotica.

    Julia and Jacques come to mind. But so does someone more contemporary like Jamie Oliver.

  • gwlolo
    10 years ago

    My Marcella Hazan cookbook is still on the cookbook stand. I will often prop a cookbook open for several weeks to inspire and motivate me to cook from it. This weekend was a cake weekend and I made 3 cakes for a party. I had some people who will not eat frosting etc. So I made Marcella's Polenta Shortcake with Raisins, Dried Figs, and Pine Nuts. It was a delicious easy to make cake and not too sweet. I basically call this type of a cake a dump cake where everything basically gets dumped together, mixed and baked. Tastes even better today.

    All the ingredients. The coarse cornmeal and the breadcrumbs instead of flour to coat the pan was interesting.

    The cornmeal is cooked into a mush and mixed with the other stuff

    There was no leavening like baking soda or baking powder. The cake did rise a bit due to the single egg but was a firm and easy to cut into smaller wedges. The pinenuts and the fruit flavors were really enhanced by the sweetness of the fennel (the recipe called for 2 TBSP of it!).

  • John Liu
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    You are a wonderfully organized baker. I'm envious.