The OP wrote: "Kaseki--So, perhaps the appropriate thing to say is that mesh filters are not as effective as baffles but can work if kept clean? Noise is a concern of mine. I don't want something that sounds like a jet on a runway (exaggerating a bit here). Perhaps baffles are the ideal compromise. " I thought what I said was they can be equal if clean, without explicitly noting that clean is a condition that may be brief. For the same flow rate, I would expect mesh filters to generate a bit more hiss. Fan blade turbulence noise will depend on the fan and other factors, but whatever acoustic level the tip noise is, I would expect little perceived difference to the cook between baffles and mesh filters, everything else being equal. "I know VAH markets itself as much more efficient--e.g. their 300 CFM will actually perform the same as someone else's 450CFM. Are people here in agreement with that statement? I guess if that were true, I might be willing to put up with a bit of extra noise and cleaning hassle. " This has been commented on here in many threads, including a recent one by me. It is unlikely the motors are more efficient (air moved per hour per kw-hr used). Grease collection fraction over the particle spectrum has never been published, to my knowledge, so comparative collection efficiency is unknown. The claim of being equivalent to a 50% greater cfm standard configuration is, in my view, likely to be a comparison of "apples to oranges." Normally, fans are specified as having a particular flow rate at zero static pressure, and as the pressure difference across them increases, the flow decreases. The relationship is typically plotted in a "fan curve." Respectable fan manufacturers will publish the curves for their fans. Broan has fan curves on their web site. For other examples, see Rotron and Fantech (published as tables). What I believe VAH are saying is that in their fan housing, their fan moves X cfm, but if it were in the open as other fans are rated it would move 1.5X cfm. Unfortunately, that is not the whole story. There are other pressure losses in a system, such as duct friction loss, turning loss, transition loss, filter loss, and, sometimes the largest, the lack of adequate make-up air loss (the house pressure goes negative). So, without a fan curve one cannot determine how much lower the cfm will be for a VAH in situ. Not that the situation is all that much better for the fans with fan curves, because the hood and baffle losses have to be guessed at for most hoods (commercial being an exception). And house pressure has to be estimated depending on what MUA system, if any, will be in use. As a gross rule of thumb, I assume that baffle hood systems normally configured without more than 0.03 inches of MUA loss will meet the VAH factor; that is, the actual cfm will be 2/3 the zero static pressure cfm rating of the fan. (Note that more negative house pressure will backdraft some combustion appliances and should be avoided.) kas

and that was easy!

I restuccoed a historic home in Virginia. While I don't remember all of the element of the process, my installer specialized in historic properties. He put new stucco on the West Virginia Capitol building. He said we should expect 50 years out a stucco job before it fails. Our stucco was about 50 years old and was failing. So, it was time for a new façade. After removing the old stucco, the brick was exposed. The first scratch coat was applied to brick. A liquid adhesion product was then applied. A finial finish coat was troweled on. I believe it was acrylic. We then painted the stucco with an elastomeric paint. He said that there was no way to prevent stucco from forming microcracks. It wasn't possible. It was a function of the material. The elastomeric paint was much thicker than regular house paint. I seem to remember it being 9 mills thick. In contrast, regular house paint is 3 mills thick. This extra thick paint would expand and contract with the change of seasons and formed a protective coating. Hence the elasto in the name. The paint could be tinted any color you desired. We have sold the house and moved away. I drove past on Thanksgiving. The stucco and paint job look great. Follow the suggestions of the manufacturer. He knows what he is doing.

Prune back to a node. Try to avoid trifurcations if you can, by pinching out one of the branches. A bifurcation is a 'Y', a trifurcation is a 3-tined pitchfork - which is the normal growth habit of coleus, maples, jades, and scores of other plants. If you pinch judiciously, you can turn normally leggy plants into mounds of foliage. I drew this up for the jade growers, but it will work the same way for coleus because of a similar leaf arrangement: Al