Thanks, I think they have found a home.

Backyardmomma, Yellow leaves alone are only a sign of stress, so they can be a symptom of many things. Yellow leaves could, for example, mean the plants are too dry, too wet, underfed, under attack by insects, or have a disease....and there are many kinds of disease including some that are bacterial, some that are viral and some of those are deadly while others are not. It also could mean they are growing in soil that is too cold. If you transplanted them in mid-March, I'd guess that at least initially the soil was too cold and maybe too wet and that might be part of the problem, although it should have corrected itself as both soil and air temps warmed up. I'm going to ask you a couple of questions to try to help you figure it out and I hope others who grow tomatoes will offer their ideas and suggestions as well. Are they turning a really bright yellow or a very dull yellow? Do you see any kind of purplish, brownish or blackish spots on the foliage? Do you see any of the concentric rings (sort of like a bull's eye) often associated with Early Blight? It would be peculiar, I would think, to have Early Blight start up in April, but I have seen it start up in May once or twice, so if the temperatures got hot enough in April, I guess it could. Usually, though it is more prone to show up in June. Also, if you see any sort of circular discoloration on the leaves, is the tissue whole and intact, or are there little brown dead spots in the center, or a lack of leaf tissue in the center like someone took a straight pin and poked a little hole in the center of each spot? What kind of soil do you have in terms of drainage? Does it drain fairly well? Extremely well? Not well at all? Have you added organic matter to the soil? Do you, or your neighbors, use any chemicals? Have you added any compost or used hay/straw mulch whose origin you're unsure of that could have been contaminated by broadleaf weed killers used on cattle pastures? Are you seeing any lesions of any sort on the tomato plants' stems, especially the main stem? They most likely would be pale tan or light brown in color. Does your new foliage look normal for this time of year in terms of healthy green color? Finally, I'm going to link the TAMU Tomato Problem Solver, and if nothing there looks familiar, we might try Earl's Problem Solver. When you click on the link, click on the 'leaf' section and see if anything there looks like your yellowing leaves. That might give us a good starting point because it might help rule out a few things. The two varieties you mentioned are pretty disease-resistant, which doesn't necessarily mean a lot because resistance is only resistance, not immunity. Tomato plants, though, can be as individual as people...some get sick, others don't. Last year I had Septoria Leaf Spot hit some of my plants, but it was hit and miss...one plant might have a very bad case of it, and the next plant sitting right beside it, even one of the exact same variety, might not show any symptoms at all. Many diseases live in soil and will stay there almost forever, although solarizing your soil for a couple of months can help reduce their level in your soil. Do you add compost or organic matter every year? I ask because improved soil often helps plants fight disease better. Did you mulch your plants after you planted them to reduce soil splash? With unmulched plants, the rain or irrigation water can splash soil up onto the plant and that soil can carry any soil-borne disease up onto the plant leaves. That's why mulching is incredibly important for tomato plants. The people I know who have nematode issues in sandy soils usually don't see trouble this early in the year, but I'm not saying it couldn't happen. If you happen to have nematodes, you'll see root galls (swelling and knots) on plants when you pull them up out of the ground. Have you seen any of that in the past? I'm sure we'll be able to figure this out, but it might take several of our brains working together (in fact, I am sure it will) and also some back-and-forth conversation. So, be patient and give us all time to work through the possibilities and to think about your answers to our questions. Now, when you have time, look at the link and see if it helps you rule anything in or out. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: TAMU Tomato Problem Solver

You don't indicate where you live or even your gardening zone. We need that info. Depending on that info I see several possible problems. (1) poor, inconsistent watering methods leading to heavy stress, shallow rooting, root rot, and possibly poorly draining soil (no such thing as "organic soil" so what are we talking about?). How much and what type of compost? Any possibility of weed killer contamination in it? Consistency in soil moisture levels is the goal, not one extreme to another. Consistent low moisture levels. And moisture meters are notorious for being inaccurate. Use your hands. Tunnel down to the 6" level where the root are and feel the soil (2) way too much soaker hose in place for such small beds contributing to watering issues. 3) the wood chip mulch - never recommended for vegetable beds - binds up nitrogen and attracts pests especially slugs and root maggots. 4) all the Neem oil spraying. It causes its own issues with plants when not used and applied properly. Use when needed is one thing. Regular use when it may not even be needed is something else entirely. Application times, methods, and amounts are critical. Sorry but IMO you are going to have to make some major changes in methods to save those plants. Dave

The leaves with holes looks like what Aphids do to my tomato leaves. Here are a couple links for problem solving: Pictures of Mineral Deficiencies in Tomatoes: http://www.hbci.com/~wenonah/min-def/tomatoes.htm and tomato problem solver: http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/