How do I vacuum seal dried food in jars?
bellsmom
10 years ago
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foodonastump
10 years agoteresa_nc7
10 years agoRelated Discussions
dried tomatoes, freezing and vacuum sealing
Comments (6)For what it's worth - I doubt that the now frozen toms would be suitable for re-packaging - mainly because they retain quite a bit of moisture when frozen. This is one reason I like the dehydrate/freeze techniquie for cherry type tomatoes. They seem to keep flavor better for use in salad dressings, pasta dishes and baked breads. I think I would try just a few first - and would be curious to know how they turn out. Perhaps re-hydrating them would help, but my guess is that there would be flavor loss. One new idea that I've had with some success, is to use fresh silica gel packets in my dehydrated herbs - to soak up any remaining dampness - especially helpful when drying onion and garlic scapes - which I like to use for seasoning broths, etc. Just my 2 c's. Bejay...See MoreSealing jars with FoodSaver vacuum sealer
Comments (33)There are two sizes of the FS canning jar attachments. One is meant for regular mouth canning jars, and the other is for the larger mouth canning jars. Yes, they use the exact same lids used in home canning. The lids are placed on top of the jar, and the attachment is pushed down over it to make a seal between a rubber ring and the glass bead just below the threads of the jars. Once air is pulled out, and you pull off the vacuum hose from the attachment, a tiny 'slug' of air, blasts into the small vacuum hole and the lid is forced down onto the jar and seals it. You remove the attachement then and rinse off the jar if its wet. The seal is very strong and is usually far better than a regular canning process would do. As mentoned, The FS vacuum pump is NOT powerful enough to be safely used as an alternative to regular canning processing. Besides that, if the very small vacuum pump inside the FS gets any trace of moisture in it, it can cause damage to the FS machine. I use a much higher powered piston type vacuum pump and also have a water/moisture trap on the vacuum line. The pump I have quickly goes down to 30 inches, which is sufficient for a decent vacuum. I also vacuum seal dried herbs like dill weed. It remains very fragrent and bright green color, even after 2 years of storage....See MoreHelpful tip for using the vacuum jar sealer
Comments (4)Today I went to open a pint jar of homemade playdough that I had sealed this way a few days ago and when I peeled back the tape nothing happened. I had to poke my needle through the hole again to let in the air. I think some playdough must have clogged the hole from the inside. I thought it was interesting that the lid was still sealed too tight to pull off with my fingers. Obviously if the hole is very tiny it takes much less "plugging power" to maintain a seal, so the tinier the hole the better the chance of having a good long term seal....See MoreCan I stain butcher block? How do I seal?
Comments (8)The properties of warping of wood have been thoroughly studied and understood scientifically. Casual observations relating warping to finish (or lack thereof) are faulty. My mother had a butcherblock portion of counter for over 30 years, never oiled or finished anywhere, that never warped. I've had boards that warped and others that didn't, some finished, some unfinished, some partly finished. It's not the finish. Wood tabletops, countertops, decks, etc. are exposed to more water on the top than the bottom, causing the top to swell and try to expand. But the wood's thickness remains stable and prevents this. The cells of wood on the top of the board become compressed from their original cylindrical shape (like a soda straw) into an oval shape. As it dries out, the wood cells do not fully regain their original shape, so the top shrinks, pulling the board concave. This is called "compression shrinkage." Therefore, finishing the bottom of a tabletop or countertop will not prevent warping. Warping will always be cupping of the top due to swelling from wetness of the top and subsequent compression shrinkage. If lack of finish on the bottom caused warping, you would see the tabletop bow, not cup -- but this never happens. Or think about it another way: what liquid is going to soak into the bottom of your installed butcherblock counter, that a finish is going to block? It's not going to happen. And no finish blocks water vapor (from humidity in the air), only slows it a little bit, so this would make no difference in protection either. So if you want a tabletop or countertop not to cup over time, there are two things to consider. The most important factor is the quality of wood making up the butcherblock: the size and shape of the wood cells, their density, how the wood was cut in relation to the growth rings, and how it was dried. Butcherblock made up of dense, old-growth, quartersawn boards slowly air dried is going to hold its shape (even when totally unfinished), while strips of young, low-density, plainsawn boards are going to warp easily. Second, keep the top as dry as possible. Don't let liquids soak into it, or use a water-resistant film finish if you expect liquid exposure. It's not the finish on the bottom, it's how dry you can keep the top, that helps prevent cupping....See Moregrainlady_ks
10 years agobellsmom
10 years agograinlady_ks
10 years agobellsmom
10 years agograinlady_ks
10 years agodcarch7 d c f l a s h 7 @ y a h o o . c o m
10 years agobellsmom
10 years agoAbby Smalle
4 years agoSooz
4 years agoAbby Smalle
4 years agoSooz
4 years agonancyofnc
4 years agoLars
4 years ago
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