I use a lot of tulle in the veg garden, and to keep birds from eating ripe berries. There are two types, and the slightly stretchy french tulle will last a bit longer but costs more. It has kept flea beetles off of eggplant, so pests that small can't get through it. In terms of looks, you won't believe how much better olive green tulle looks compared to row cover. I've experimented with different colors, and olive green is the least obtrusive. I can easily hold a "bonnet" of tulle over a 6-foot tall blueberry bush by bunching it at the bottom and fastening it with clothespins. First year experiment this year involves "bagging" apples in drawstring bags made from circles of tulle and thread. It looks way better than plastic bags, but it remains to be seen if it will work. Here is a link that might be useful: tulle covers

If they are tiny gnats. It's more likely that they are fungus gnats. Too much water in the soil causes the right conditions for these things to thrive, let the soil dry out. Also do a search for fungus gnats on GW for treatment options. Also as Kevin stated identify then treat. Mark This post was edited by habjolokia on Sat, Nov 16, 13 at 12:56

Hi ee; You are experiencing the changes of small flies as the seasons change. Probibly from nats through fruit flies to the larger drain flies. All smaller than common house flies. Google them all and observe the differences and get a hint on how to control them.

How many levels do you have? Maybe it's not a different food but rather an amount all at once? I find worms attempting escape after the addition of too much broccoli stalk unless it's well rotted. I think it has to do with gases released, but I don't know for sure. I just notice that as long as there is the strong smell, the worms are trying to leave, but once the smell subsides the worms seem content to stay down and resume eating, pooping, making more worms. Maybe it's a combo of food or maybe you have peels that have soap of some kind or another chemical on them. Unfortunately, there have been times when a bin suddenly seems inhospitable to worms for a short time and while I try to figure out what went wrong the worms become content again. So, the problem often gets fixed before I even get the opportunity to pinpoint the cause. It often seems aeration is the key. I leave the top off with an LED light on when worms seem unhappy. If it smells bad, I cover it with some leaves. In a worm factory, it's not a bad idea to keep an extra level handy. If the worms seem dissatisfied you can just add bedding to the extra level and put it on top. I use half finished compost since if there is a smell the compost tends to filter it out fairly well and gives the worms something to eat. Shredded phone book works well, too. After a day or two you can then dump the contents into the previous level as the previous level will likely have settled as the water from the food drains down leaving room for the addition. That way the extra level stays an extra level in case you need it again later. Does that make sense? The couple of days (or longer if it that's what it takes) will likely lead to enough rotting and ph balancing to make things hospitable again. I've never noticed worms to be bothered by fruit flies. My outdoor summer bins get them real bad since I top feed those.