"wait, wait...are you saying I can put six HUNDRED plants in a 10x10 plot???" Those yields are based upon a degree of soil conditioning that is very labor-intensive... and while I have read of such recommendations, I have yet to see photos, or hear first-hand observations, proving that they would work for most gardeners. All of the digging aside, in my area, I'd be flirting with disaster if I crowded my beans that closely. Personally, I wouldn't recommend it. Most bush beans - when healthy & mature - have a footprint of 1/2 - 1 sq. ft. or larger. 100 plants (1 per sq. ft.) should be a safe bet; I've successfully used 6" between plants w/ 2-foot spacing between rows, which is close to the same thing. You might be able to get away with 2-3 plants per sq. ft. for the more compact varieties. Crowding more closely than that may work in the warm dry climate of California; but in the cooler, wetter Northern climes, it could lead to severe disease problems. I'm not saying that it wouldn't work... just that I wouldn't put all my eggs in that one basket, unless/until small-scale trials proved it to be successful. In a post above, I had mentioned "seed efficiency". To put that in perspective, large kidney beans are somewhere in the neighborhood of 40-60 seeds per ounce. If planted at the recommended bio-intensive density of 600+ for a 10' X 10' plot, you would need between 10-16 ounces of seed to plant... so you would need to buy (or save from the previous season) a pound of seed. Assuming you harvest 24 pounds of dry seed (which is, keep in mind, the best case scenario), it would represent a return of between 24/1 & 38/1, depending upon seed size. Most gardeners would get much less than that, since the maximum is for experienced gardeners, on well amended soil. In contrast, my observations are that large-seeded bush beans, given the 6" plant/2' row spacing I mentioned above, are easily capable of a seed increase of between 50/1 - 100/1. Small-seeded types will tend to yield about the same weight/plant, but at an even higher ratio of increase, well over 100/1... so in terms of cost effectiveness (if purchasing seed) small is often better. Pole beans can do better still; the "Striped Cornfield" I grew this year (@45 seeds/oz.) produced a return of over 500/1! My results were obtained by mechanical tilling, with leaves & mulch turned under each season. Using these numbers, the same kidney beans - if grown in 5 rows in the same 10' X 10' plot - would be 100 plants. This would produce between 5 & 10 pounds of seed minimum... with only 2 ounces of seed required for planting, the average in a packet of beans. Also, at this spacing, the plants have sufficient air flow through the foliage to minimize the chances of disease during prolonged periods of rainfall. Having tested that theory in some very bad years recently (such as in 2008) I consider these yields to be realistically attainable, year after year. I don't doubt that my spacings could be improved upon; it is something that I often experiment with. Most likely, there is a happy medium somewhere between row spacing & high-density plantings which will produce the best yield, for a given area, with the littlest possible seed. That "happy medium" should take into account the expected annual variations in climate, since what works well one year, might not work the next. With soybeans, I have had some success with closely-spaced double rows, with standard row spacing between the pairs... so that may work for bush beans as well. Given the observations I have made on over 100 bean varieties over the years, I expect the optimal spacing will vary widely, depending upon variety, climate, and soil fertility. So there is really no "one correct answer" for bean spacing... just starting points for personal experimentation. Keep in mind, John Jeavons' bio-intensive recommendations mentioned above pertain to bush beans only. Pole beans are not suitable for wide bed planting, due to shading. However, you can have the best of both worlds using pole beans. Planted in a single row on the North side of the bed (where they would not shade shorter crops), they take up a relatively small footprint. A high-yielding pole variety could give you 3-4 pounds of dry seed from one row in that same 10' X 10' bed. You could use the majority of the bed(s) for other things, and still get a good crop of beans. My apologies for all of the long (and probably dry) posts, but as an amateur researcher, I just wanted to share some "bean science". Just wish this was on the Bean Forum.

Sorry but while manures are great soil amendments, you should never use fresh manure in the garden because of the pathogen risks associated with it as well as the high N levels it contains (especially if it also contains urine). Standard recommendation is to compost all manures (with the possible exception of rabbit) for a minimum of 5-6 months prior to use. You can do it several different ways: (1) add it to an existing compost pile or build a new compost pile with it and add multiple carbon sources to it, (2) age it in a pile by itself although odor and flies will be a problem, (3) spread it over the garden in the early fall once harvest is finished and let it compost in place until spring when it can be tilled into the soil. Don't pass it up but use it safely for best results. ;) Dave

jonsgirl - My hubby isn't a bean lover either, but WILL eat Bean Burgers. I bake up a bunch and freeze them for a good vegetarian meal. As long as I butter and toast the homemade multi-grain bun and he can load it with grilled onions, he's happy!!! -Grainlady BEAN BURGERS (source: Eat More, Weigh Less - by Dr. Dean Ornish 1/2 c. minced green onions (I also use chopped fresh chives) 1-1/2 T. minced garlic 2 T. white wine or vegetable stock 1 29-ounce can cooked drained pinto beans 3/4 c. cracker meal 2 egg whites (I use one whole egg.) 1/2 c. chopped fresh parsley 2 T. seasoned rice vinegar 1/2 t. SPIKE seasoning powder (I get this at our local health food store) Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a small nonstick saute pan, braise the onions and garlic in the white wine until soft. In a medium bowl, combine the sauteed onions and garlic, beans, cracker meal, egg whites, parsley, vinegar, and seasoning powder. Mash well with a fork or potato masher until blended but not entirely smoowh. On parchment-lined nonstick baking sheet, drop the mixture by 1/2-cup amounts and flatten gently with a spoon to form six 5-inch "burgers." Bake for 25 minutes, or until set and beginning to brown lightly. Serve hot. Note: I make smaller "burgers". Don't like super-sized food and 5" burgers, even made with beans, is just way too big!

I read once that fresh turkeys are kept at 28 degrees in storage, and that is very cold and arrests decomposition. You refrigerator at home is probably at 45 degrees. Keep in mind that it is WATER that freezes at 32 degrees. Fat freezes at a much lower temperature as do other things like alcohols. So, sticking a fresh turkey in storage at 28 degrees won't freeze it solid, but you may get some water crystals on and within it. Makes Sense?