There was an earlier thread on Professional vs Professional Style, which concluded that a true professional range had issues in a residential environment -- including the construction requirements, and even some possible code issues preventing their use in a residence. So why "professional style"? I don't like the word "style" in that phrase because it implies that it's about the look. I prefer the word "professional capability." And for me it's not just about the high BTUs on a burner -- it's just as much about control, i.e. with a flame that goes smoothly from a low simmer to a high sear. That's what sold me on the "professional style" burners like the BlueStar. I can even see the actual difference in the design of the burner that lead to improved performance. And in a "pro style" rangetop, cleanup is easier then putting that burner on a drop-in cooktop. And there's more room for big pots on the "pro style" rangetop. Honestly, the style isn't thrilling to me -- but the capabilities are. That's also why I'm personally having a harder time justifying spending lots of money on an oven. I am finding it hard to believe that $2000 ovens don't cook properly. I don't know what is so hard about making a box that holds a temperature and doesn't break down. Again, the styling isn't the issue -- I just want it to work right. (And, FWIW, I also use a variety of cooking modes, including a couple of outdoor options like a Weber Grill and a smoker. I really get annoyed at poorly designed tools, which is why I ended up with the Weber gas grill over other, lower cost options. I'm also rebuilding my smoker with modifications to help it hold temperature, more evenly distribute the smoke, and provide proper airflow to the firebox... things which would make my ~$150 smoker cost $155.50 if the manufacturer had done them in the first place. Sigh...)

While there are several of us pros on the forum, including some who responded to your previous query, the forum isn't the place you need to seek out professional help. Long distance designing is full of pitfalls and is only for those who are good DIYers or have good pros that they really trust on their end. Two weeks is VERY scant time to come up with an actual design from a pro, unless you were an only client.It could take you two weeks to find a designer that you mesh with, and it takes much longer to do consults long distance than in person. Which is what you need. An in person designer. Open your search engine and yellow pages and look for listings of local kitchen showrooms and interior design firms. See if they are members of the NKBA or are Certified Kitchen Designers. Not having such certifications doesn't mean that they aren't good designers, but it helps to know their level of experience. And, frankly, looking at your home plan, you need an architect first, and a kitchen designer second. The architect needs to tweak your whole home's plans for space, and the designer also needs input as to function. You can't increase the size of the kitchen (which it needs if you are choosing such large appliances) without impacting the size of the dining room and family room and all other rooms. Everything works together, not in a vacuum.

Those areas are never factory finished. They are the internal box color finish, which is usually a natural maple. From the factory, it’s an upgrade to finish them to a matching finish. It would be standard to just finish the same factory finished portions and to not finish those areas. Just like the factory cabinets are currently finished. And, just like the original purchase, finishing those areas would be possible as an upgrade for additional cost. The biggest obstacle to coating them is that they usually are melamine coated, which takes specialty treatment and extra work to allow them to be coated.

That's not a professional range. That's a prostyle consumer range. That might sound like nitpicking, but it's an important distinction. Rarely, but every so often, we hear of people installing actually commercial ranges in their residential kitchens. These ranges have subtly different dimensions, have specific requirements for insulation and fire suppression, and make proper venting more difficult. So, when you ask about dimensions, that's what springs to mind. Turns out, you are talking about a regular residential stove that has been styled to look like a commercial model. Much easier. It is intended to be installed in a normal kitchen. There wouldn't be any issue with the depth of your cabinets. The standard cabinet depth is 24", and then there usually is about a 1" overhang for the counters. That leaves you with 3" for the handle and for the oven door (which must be forward of adjacent cabinets to avoid scorching). All of that is reasonable. Of course, your much bigger problem is that 38" is already really tight. No matter how you look at it, that's never going to be ideal. If you had the space for wall ovens, that might be a better option. You could then convert from a range to a gas rangetop or maybe even an induction cooktop. That's likely going to be a little more space efficient (still not ideal, but every little bit helps). Also, the range that you looked at isn't going to work in this configuration. If I read this correctly, you must install a 12" tall backguard when pushing it all the way against the wall. Factor that into your cost and into your design decisions. If you don't have the backguard, you will damage your backsplash and potentially cause a fire. The configuration that is shown on the website is intended for installation in an island, where there is no backsplash behind the range. Finally, I personally wouldn't go with dual-fuel, nor would I spend this much money on a Chinese range. I'd much prefer buying a Bluestar range with open burner. It's a very uncompromising design that is optimized for great performance. But that's a discussion for a different day.