Walt, what on God's green earth is that thing? As far as oil ratios, everybody should use what they feel is the best. I personally don't like the idea of running a high mix oil at 100:1 when the folks who built my orphaned 2-stroke recommend 32:1. Now I know some of you guys use these synthetics with good results. It's just not for me. Additive packages and whatever else, I prefer to follow engine manufacturer's recommendations and use LB oil. I actually run mine with a little extra oil to be on the safe side, just in case. However, this is what I do because it works for me. I'll always suggest going with spec or richer, but if something else works for another person that's fine too. When you ask people for their opinions on this forum, that's exactly what you will get. Silly thing to argue about really.

Sharon, And I've no doubt that she would carry it off with great style, but you see only the picture - to be in the presence of them is something else. Christopher, Say it isn't so, Christopher, that you've been spending so much time at the Orchid Forum that you don't recognize your good ol' Crassula ovata, and it's going to plank in the pot, as it were. It was a plant which I removed all the leaves and the rootball, because it didn't fit into the thrift-store bonsai pot (made in Japan!) which I wanted to grow it in. Le Upright (y) is Tylecodon (definitely) paniculata (? - likely, per Tom, and the leaves will be big, well, big for Tylecodons). Paul, They're impervious to the shoes' powers - I just wish they were the same way with the cats.

Hi. I was wondering if you got the Osmo Polyx oil perfect eventually? Was it an easy DIY job or at least something not needing lots of experience in to get a good finish? We are wanting to order and do all of our red oak throughout our house in the Polyx oil ourselves. Any tips? Regrets?

from the site that Vickey posted "# Once you're satisfied that your pores are saturated and you're feeling calm, pick up your washcloth and soak it in clean, steamy water. We want the water to be warm enough to open your pores and remove the oil. Cool water will not open your pores, nor will it remove the oil efficiently. We're not scalding our skin, we're steaming to coax our pores to release the oil carrying the impurities. We're essentially steaming our skin as an esthetician would, but without the luxury of a steam machine. # Hold the washcloth to cover your face. Allow it to stay until it cools. You will feel your pores releasing the impurities. Wipe the oil gently away and rinse the washcloth well in hot, running water. Hold the washcloth to your face again, allowing it to cool. Wipe gently, rinse well, and repeat two or three more times. Avoid any temptation to scrub, as you'll find it's completely unnecessary and your skin will be soft, smooth, and free of flakes without the additional manual exfoliation and irritation that will result. Impurities, dead skin cells, and bacteria will be gently swept away. # Have no fear of the oil, as the steamy washcloth will remove it. The Castor Oil, though it is an oil, will help with the removal of the other oils, as well. It is our main cleansing oil and is easily removed with warm water. # If your skin feels tight, take a tiny drop of your oil blend, rub it between your clean, damp palms and pat it onto your damp skin. Gently massage any oil residue into your skin so there is no film of oil left sitting on the surface. Your skin should now glow!" Here is a link that might be useful: oil cleansing method