Is there any science behind this?...
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9 years ago
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grainlady_ks
9 years agoarley_gw
9 years agoRelated Discussions
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Comments (4)I agree with most of the good advice preceding and would add not to pay much attention to a random forester. The only nutrient that consistently creates a vigor response for trees in most soils is N and additional P is often not needed at all, at least in the soils in the northeast. K becomes an issue when it is being carried out of a site in the form of crop. Presumably animals feeding on the fruit would tend to leave in excrement about what they consumed. Soil tests don't really tell you what's needed like a map can direct you where to drive and they aren't in my opinion always essential. In commercial orchards where you need to tweek things to max efficiency, soil tests are used in conjunction with leaf analysis. Soil tests probably represent about a third of the total info provided by both tests and this info is only part of the evidence a grower acts on when determining nutritional needs. Observation of apples, foliage and soil take an equal role. Cornell does offer a maintanence nutrient management program in their "Pest Management Guidelines for Commercial Tree-Fruit Production" which last I checked can be found on-line. I assume this info is for commercial growers getting satisfactory production and aren't doing test based management. I do consider pH adjustment an essential part of fruit tree care and this has to be done in conjunction with analysis....See MoreScience behind insecticides??
Comments (14)Olpea, It was dilute. I had them in a yogurt or cottage cheese container with some plastic wrap over the top. Pulled the plastic wrap back and sprayed so it didn't dry. From failing memory; I was shocked when the "dead" came back to life. What I liked best was the longer it went the worse the one that didn't curl up was able to cling to the sides or top. I caught them feeding under leaves and figure if they can't hold on they probably can't feed. I also didn't see any attempts to fly. It took no time for them to curl up "dead", except the one. It was days for them to come out of it. I think they were dead in a week (and I put a leaf in there (that may have been sprayed) so they could eat). I'll see if I can find a post about it. I didn't think about letting it dry. That would be an interesting one to do if I ever catch some again. Maybe spray a leaf, let it dry and drop it in....See MoreDoes anyone know the science behind snapping blooms?
Comments (9)As much preference as science, since both accomplish the removal of developing hips that might inhibit further flowering, as does a third method of deadheading for roses that bloom in large clusters. For those roses, I tend to grab the whole inflorescence in one hand and cut off all the spend bloom, leaving some, usually about a quarter, of the spray intact. What many of us have observed is that some roses that aren't deadheaded at all produce new growth and bloom right below the previous flowers and that the form of such roses is perfectly acceptable and even preferable for garden use, especially among certain classes of roses. For my time and effort, if I am removing spent bloom from a modern Hybrid Tea or a Hybrid Perpetual, I tend to cut down to an active leaf node because in my experience Hybrid Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals respond to the stimulation of pruning with active new growth and bloom. But if I'm deadheading a China or a Tea, which have a rather different growth habit, I often snap the spent bloom off at the abscission layer because Teas and Chinas love being fully clothed with foliage and produce new growth in the darnedest places imaginable. Shrub roses are all over the board. Something like Outta the Blue produces flush after flush if the developing hips are removed and by season's end, the plant is a 6 x 6 foot thug. A modern like International Herald Tribune or many polyanthas and hybrid musks produce huge candelabras of bloom. If hacked-to-the-next-lowest-outward-facing-five-leaf-leaflet, the plant would be about 12 inches tall. Removing spent bloom at the abscission layer is too time-consuming, so I use pruners to do more or less the same thing, which is to grab the whole inflorescence in one hand and cut off all the spend bloom, leaving some, usually about a quarter to a third, of the spray intact. Since these responses are plant specific, I usually do minimal, abscission layer deadheading (snapping off the bloom) with all new roses until I can study their growth habit. Short-and-hacked-to-the-next-lowest-outward-facing-five-leaf-leaflet is often preferable to tall-and-leafless- with-stem-on-stem-bloom-but-no-leaves-in-sight....See MoreAny Suggestions for child's Science Project on Herbs??
Comments (5)Help him to make some bread, or scones, or even fresh pasta, keeping one lot plain, the other with herbs added. Savoury crackers are another way of doing it. Another very simple idea is a jug of water, one just water, one with a sprig of mint, or lemon balm in it. Taste the difference! He could experiment with other herbs, too, like ordinary tea, basil, thyme, rosemary, whatever. Tell him he'll be making a cold-water infusion. That should blind him with science! He could have a row of jugs with a different herb in each, and little plastic medicine cups for taste-testing. He could, of course, make a real tea, using boiling water poured over the herb. He won't need to wait so long then for the flavours to infuse. Put a fresh sprig of the herb in the water for decorative purposes. Don't forget to label each jug so he can remember which herb is what. Get some cream cheese. Make cheese balls. Keep some plain, to the others, in small batches, add an assortment of herbs, or just roll the balls in the herbs. Parsley, chervil, chives, sesame seeds, garlic (or garlic chives), paprika are some suggestions. Make a small batch of spaghetti bolognese sauce, minus onion, basil etc. Just the meat and tomato base. Then take half of it and add in the herbs. Taste the difference!...See MoreUser
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