I have decided that I will make the 10x12 work for me; I will reinforce the heck out of it. I am going to be growing trees, I will need the height. ACK, I went by my Local HF Store today, "Just to Check", I should have my Money by Tuesday... They have the 6x8 in stock $399!, but have never had the 10x12 in stock, Granted when I gave the part number to a stock clerk, and told him that it is listed on Harborfreightusa.com, he said that it is a new item and should be stocking it soon... SOON, how soon, my 20% off coupon, expires on the 18th (Does that mean I can use it on the 18th, or that the last day I can use it, is the 17th) Sigh. I am only about 130 Miles from there Camarillo Warehouse, I wonder if I can do a will-call, and use my 20% off retail store coupon... Leme see, 260 miles round trip call it 9 gallons of gas, at 2.60 a gallon, call it $24 bucks for gas, and 3.5 hours of Driving, one hour for The hassle at will call. Oh, I can not forget the Stop at Canters Deli for lunch for me and my helper, so add another hour, and another $40. Oh wait, I cannot use my car (3 door Saturn, I do not think the big metal framed box will fit in it, so I have to take my wifes truck, Yeah my wife has the truck, what can I say, she is a Red Neck Woman, I think Gretchen wrote that song for her, but my wife is better looking.) Ok where was I, oh yeah Driving the Truck, well I can still average 75 MPH, but the mileage is gonna suck, so that would be $40 bucks in gas SO $40 for Gas, $40 for Lunch, and 4 and a half, ok call it 5 hours of my time... Hmm, well there are about 9 HF Stores, (other than my local store), that are 30-75 miles away, I guess I am gonna have to break down and do that old fashioned thing and let my fingers do the walking. I hope they have it for the same price as the Mail order site. Yeah, I found out on this site somewhere that the www.harborfreight.com site is for mail order/web order prices only, and the www.harborfreightusa.com sight is for retail stores, but it only shows stock items (Not what is in stock, but what they can stock), and they do not show the prices. So does anyone live out here in Southern California, and want a free meal at Canters, and Corned beef and cabbage (my wife makes a Wicked corned beef, she slow cooks it all day), oh yeah and lots of Guinness. (Most of the Guinness will be after it is built. I will be taking lots of Pictures, and using the extra reinforcing mentioned elsewhere on this site. I will also be sinking the Frame (But on wooden supports. I will be sealing the open edges of the Panels with 100 Mile an hour tape (Also know as aluminum tape I think), and then running thin weather-stripping along the inside edges of the panels. I will buy a couple packages of Extra Spring Clips from Charlies, and probably screw in the panels on the roof, since they will not be easy to remove for the summer months. I will probably add extra Triangle corner reinforcing, Guy wires with those funny twisty things and some nice big anchors into the ground. I have a 220 GFI for my Hot Tub near where I will be building it, but I probably should not tap into that for the greenhouse. I do have a couple of Blank spots in my fuse box (Why do they still call them fuse boxes... oh yeah I think they are called breaker boxes now), it was easy for the Guys to run the Power to the Hot Tub (About 15 minutes), but then thats what these guys do for a Living. I probably will not need power to the greenhouse, till Fall anyhow, I will be removing panels and using shade cloth for cooling in the summer. One corner of the greenhouse will be just past one of my Spare Sprinkler heads, so I can tap into that for water, and if I install timers inside the greenhouse, I can have different watering schedules for the watering and the Misting... I assume that is what I should do. One other thing I will be doing is running an extension from the clothes dryer vent to the greenhouse to have the clothes dryer exhaust into the greenhouse... Free Heat and moisture. (Most of our clothes washing happens late at night anyhow. I figure I will till up the ground where the greenhouse is going (Should make leveling it easier), and then I will be flooring it will all the shingles that blew off my roof over new years weekend. Ok, what I am I missing, ahh yes, orientation, if I remember correctly this greenhouse is 10 feet wide, and 12 feet deep. The greenhouse will be about 8 feet south of my garage (I already can see that gap is gonna become a place where you toss all the crap for the back yard, but it would make a good place to park my Garden Tractor). The winds here come out of the South, Southwest, I was thinking of Orienting the Greenhouse so that the door is facing west, I figure that would be better than south, and having the door on the east or north side would be awkward. Does this orientation sound ok? Or should I really put the door on the North side? Now a question for those who have built a 10x12,It is hard to tell from the Instructions, but it looks that the secondary brace for the vents is a separate piece of metal, so would it be possible for me to put all for vents on one side (In this case the North Side), of the roof? I do not think that having those vents facing south and opening up into a 40 MPH wind would be too healthy for the vents or the greenhouse (I am imagining a balloon being rapidly inflated), plus the wind blowing across the vents on the North Side would provide a Nice Low Pressure area, increasing the effectiveness of vents on that side. Am I missing anything (other than the greenhouse kit?) any suggestions, corrections, or Ideas. Sorry about writing books, hopefully most of you find it entertaining, rather than annoying

Darned, my weekend in the Southland is seriously threatened right now, and it's looking like I won't make it. Bah humbug is all I can say right now....

So jealous that you get to spend time with Kristene!!! Was hoping she could make it here to Orlando, then to Retreat. I've had a traumatic weekend! Desktop computer gave signs this week that it was on it's last electron so had to get a new one. Choosing was very stressful (too many choices); paying for it was a little stressful (a little less expensive than I feared). Then went through the trauma of transferring files from old one to new one. Discovered we can't find most discs to install programs. Or if we have the discs we don't have the set up key. Or it's so old we don't even remember where or when we got it. But as of this evening, I have a clean desk (because everything I moved off of it to set up the new computer is still on the dining room table!), a working computer and access to the internet. One of the best features of the new unit is 8 USB ports! Eight!!! I can plug in everything! Life is good.

Mike_Home - Thank you for the answers and advice. Here are some responses and follow-up questions. 1. SEER/EER - your answer is what I had been slowly understanding that these numbers are what drive the efficiency numbers. Rough calculations comparing my older 10 SEER unit to a 14 and 16 SEER unit plus using 1 year of energy bills, show a potential electricity improvement of $184/year for the 14 and $238.31 for the 16. Of course this is all dependent on a quality install as well as proper ducts, etc. as you've outlined in other points. 2. Payback will be uncertain as I was relocated for work. Not sure how long we'll be here and at this point, the energy savings per year is still important. 3. Understood. Before my research, I didn't realize that the furnace played such an important role in airflow. 4. My zoning explanation might have been poorly stated. The gist of what was mentioned, was that based on proper zoning, the more efficient airflow distribution within the home may allow for a 4 ton condenser. The condenser potentially wouldn't have to push air through all of the ducts at the same rate. Does that logic track with your experience? 5. Appreciate thermostat advice and handling all the features, etc. 6. The annual maintenance contract was from the contractor providing the detailed Goodman quotes. Participating in the yearly maintenance contract covers 100% of repair costs (Contractor backed, not OEM), includes a 10 year replacement warranty, and there are no dispatch or service fees for service calls. The replacement warranty is the full replacement of the failed unit rather than just repairing under the 10 year labor warranty with Goodman. If I don't do the yearly maintenance contract, there is no replacement warranty. Ever heard of this? The contractor (Goodman quotes) may have mentioned "calculations" at one point but I don't remember hearing about them doing a manual "J" load calc. As far as I can tell, Title 24 doesn't require the J calc. It does require a duct leak test performed by a certified 3rd party HERS testing company. This is required on ALL HVAC projects in CA. Rebates are only available as part of CA's Home Upgrade Program. This program has required testing and upgrades on items like ducts, whole home envelope, attic insulation, etc. I will go back to two of the contractors and ask them about performing the calculation. I am looking to replace the whole system at this point to make sure the equipment is compatible and most efficient. Goodman is making me increasingly nervous, especially with the Class Action lawsuit that was just set back last week based on a judge's ruling... As for the use of a different coil with the Goodman equipment, it seems to be very common with Goodman quotes (based on board postings like this). I think there is a relationship or commercial connection between Goodman and Aspen to drive the high use with Goodman systems. I don't know the true specs on the Ruud equipment, I was guessing a bit; I will ask for the models, etc. Thanks again!