Hi Nancy, Thank you! :) I just got it a few weeks ago and have already seen one leaf unfold. I too am a little puzzled about the name and color. I have searched and like you have not found one with the beautiful blush. Like you said, it could be for the young. But yours is a good size. I know alot of succulents have different colors determined by the amount of sun they get. I got it from a very reliable nursury, so am confident the name is right. It does seem alot like yours. hopefully someone who knows more about this plant will come along. :) For now, that's the name of mine. :)

June was a horrible month for all my plants. My banana Started to rot after the end of the month. We got about 13 inches of rain, and only 2 days in the 80s. Averages in my area for the month of june is about 84 degrees for a high, 68 for a low, and about 3 or 4 inches of rain. Some days ended up being 68! July was lot better and after repotting my banana it did come back to life. My cannas all started blooming, and everything was growing extremely fast. August has been pretty decent and at least sunny. Lots of humidity though which means thunderstorms which have come with a ton of wind and lightning. Other than that, 2 out of 3 of my plumerias are on their way to blooming, most of my palms are growing well and everything is growing pretty decently. Only palm that is really stubborn for me is my washingtionia. It lost all its leaves during the spring after a very windy rain event that brought sustained winds of 35 mph and gusts past 60. The fragile indoor leaves were pulled right off after a leaf on my queen palm fell on the small plant. The spear was broken right off too. As of today it has made only 2 or 3 new leaves so far this summer, so it was very dissapointing, but at least its potted because it will never make it through a winter in its current state. I hope next year makes up for all of this! Good luck to everyone!

Hello, My name is Jenny, I am a junior at the University of Iowa and i have been scrapping for about 6 months. I started because i wanted to do an album for my brother as his gift from me for his high school graduation. That is my current project, but i plan to do many more when this one is finished. I had no idea it would become this addictive (instead of clothes, i spend my mall gift certificates on stickers and scrapping supplies). Don't worry though, i still buy my fair share of new clothes too. =) I love this message board and try to visit atleast once a day, everyone seems so helpful and encouraging. Have a Great Day! -Jenny Can you do a swap soon- I read many of the posts from the previous swap and it sounds like fun! I would love to participate.

A weak and stressed plant is an open door invitation for many pathogens but some only require the right conditions to infect your plant. You may notice a row of landscape conifers with one brown or yellowing plant sticking out like a sore thumb and is likely the result of a phytophthora root rot of one phyto species, but all the other conifers are health and unaffected even when all are susceptible. That one brown Taxus conifer may be sitting in compacted soil with bad drainage and dead meat for the Phyto. At least a few of the 100's of Phyto species will be in any given soil so always assume there may be one that can attack your plants, and if you have that special Phyto spore they're having a hay day swimming through your water logged soil to get to your plant roots. (They swim and are attracted to chemicals from the roots of plants.) If you want to confirm or eliminate Phytophthora you can buy a rapid test kit for about $12 to test infected plant tissue and takes about 10 minutes. But a single kit can't be found and sellers require a 5 kit minimum. Maybe they have them at your work? You can also bait the soil to see if phyto is present. Search phytophthora baiting on youtube to learn how. You only need an organic apple or pear. Neither test will tell you what species it may be. I Kind of suspect you have poor drainage just from the nice flat ground your plants sit in from the pics in your other thread. And your layout suggests you do a lot of walking through the garden to get around, and with every step you compact the soil. Kindly take a bunch of pictures of the entire site (yard) from all corners and post them. I spent thousands on my gardens moving 100's of yards of dirt, grading and digging washes to flow to containment area's to drain my gardens. (big gardens for veggies) I break up subsoil compaction down to 14 inches, till down 6 inches and raise the beds 6 inches with hilling discs to insure good drainage because of the type of soil I have. I never walk on any ground within 1 1/2 feet of my transplants to avoid compaction, you should do the same. I think you said it's always moist, but how moist. If you can't push a stick 4 to 6 inches in the ground by hand it's compacted. Dig a hole 12 inches by about 8 inches wide and fill with water, then 12 hours later fill again and time how long it takes to drain. If it drops less than 2" an hour your have a drainage problem. less than 1" a very serious drainage issue. You may need to haul in dirt and build berms to plant on (and may look better). But first do the tests to see. No guessing. Concerning verticillium wilt you need to determine your plants susceptibility to the pathogen. Look for a common links, or a broken link if a resistant plant is also infected. Are any of the neighbor's plants on the other side of the fence showing problem? Does the neighbor's property drain into yours? Pictures, show me the pictures of the entire site.