really hard to tell for sure but typically fungus in my area is reddish/yellow. You may have multiple problems. The problem with newbies is that they want to solve problems with chemicals (I was one of the worst offenders). The worst time to add fertilizer is when a grass is stressed and excessive nitrogen will show up as patterns matching the application method. If you just applied the nitrogen within the last few days you can reduce the effect by watering heavily for one day but if you applied it more than a few days ago you are probably past the danger period. Again, check the soil moisture at about 2-6" deep at several areas in your lawn each week. It should be slightly wet the day of watering and then let it go to slightly damp before watering again. Wet all the time just rots the roots and causes yellowing due to lack of nutrients. With most soils a twice weekly 1" watering in the summer is all you need. When the grass comes back on it's own (and I'm almost certain it will) then evaluate the soil like I said and take any corrective action required. Guessing and throwing chemicals at it will probably make things worse.

downlaod it from ariens.com

Robert, You can try a program called HVAC-Calc that will allow you to the the Manual J yourself. Since you are doing spray foam and obviously trying to do things right, you'll easily save the cost of the program in savings on not getting an oversized system. I used it myself to do my own Manual J after I saw the one my installer's wholesaler did for my home. They did not take into account any of the things I did like ICFs, low-e double pane windows, and wetblown cellulose. They didn't even bother to get the plan orientation right. How many west facing windows you have can be a big deal when it comes to cooling load. Be prepared to receive some resistance from your installers with what will undoubtably seem like a low number to then. Trust the math. It is also very important that they size the ducts adequately and do returns in all the bedrooms. Many of the pros you'll see on boards like this pride themselves on doing things the right way. It's often very hard to find people like that in the real world. Here is a link that might be useful: HVAC-Calc

well, if you store the owner's manual in the basement, it'll get lost in the basement. I bet you can't easily, tidily, or attractively tape the owner's manual to the machine--it'll look ugly, not fit, block the vent holes, or get wet. It'll be annoying while you wait for the months to pass and the machine to break. And if you don't tape it to the machine, where will you put it, BY the machine? And will it STAY there, until that time, months from now when/if the machine stops working? So, do this with ALL machines you buy: Staple the receipt to the inside of the front cover, when you unpack the machine, and put the booklet in a single folder or file with all the other owner's manuals somewhere you are likely to look for it again. Do you have a filing cabinet, or an "office area" on a shelf somewhere? That would be a great place to put your "owner's manual" file. Or, if you have a workshop, or a pantry cabinet. (though frankly, I'd consider this to be more a "paperwork" sort of thing, and I'd put it wherever my OTHER "paperwork" is) Since we redid our kitchen, I've separated my owner's manuals. I have a "things that stay with the dwelling" file (A/C, stove, dishwasher, kitchen cabinets, vinyl flooroing), and a "things that come w/ us if we move" file (stereo, humidifier, Cuisinart, area rug). Oh, and I have a "kids' stuff" file--it had the crib, stroller; now it has toys, bunk-bed manuals, etc. Otherwise, I find that lumping them all in together works just fine. I don't need to keep the stereo separate from the Cuisinart. I need them so seldom that it's just not worth the effort of separating them. Then, should you need it, it'll be there. Safe and undisturbed, in the file.