The heater fan will run the battery down in about 1/2 hour or so. The voltage to the heater should shut off when the ignition key is in the 'off' position. I don't have a schematic for your vehicle, but most heater fans get their power throuh the 'accessory' connection of the ignition switch, and this eliminates the problem of forgetting to turn it off. However, there are two possibilities for your case: 1. A relay was used to supply the heater fan/blower and this relay is stuck closed. 2. There was a problem in the past and fan/blower was re-connected to a different location, one that is 'hot' at all times. Check out the connection for the heater fan/blower and correct.

Hasn't anypone done any measuring to identify the amount of battery drain? Or is everyone guessing? First of all, with everyting off includig the engine, measure the amount of current drain at the battery terminals. There can be a very samll anount taken by the clock and 'keep alive' memory. A security system may take the most. The draw should be very samll, in the millamp ramge. A good repair manual may have the number, but these small drains are seldom discussed in the maintence manual if it is insignificent to begin with. Measuring the current draw may help identify the source. Maybe a small lamp is lighted. Hidden lamps are glove box, trunk lid, and under hood lamp. Some auto have a 'reading lamp' located in the rear passenger compartment. I had one that was on the wall above the rear seat. Its switch was not obvious. It was turned on by rotating the fixture. Once on, this lamp stays on even after the doors are shut and the suto vacated. It is manually operated. If a search of car turns up nothing, then its time to begin tracing where the leak is at. This could be a terdious process since it could anywhere or anything especially if the car has been lightening struck as stated above. If you are certain the damage was by lightening, it may be covered as storm damage by your insurnace. Check your policy. I know of one case where a Ford Van was fried by lightening. Many components were ruined including the engine controller (computer). The shop decided to replace the entire wiring harnesses including some lamp sockets. This seemed expensive, but the cost was on par with paying a technician to track down all damages, and then it could not be assured that everthing would be found. But before going the drastic route of complete replacement, try to ascertain for sure the cause of the damage. Did someone do a jump start and momentarily reverse the jumper cables? One or more alternator diodes could spoiled, for example.

I disconnected the switches one at a time with the light connected to ground and battery negative. The light stayed on as I was disconnecting and reconnecting plugs until I got to the PTO switch, the light went out. So i guess it means switch is bad. I went further to test pto, put switch bundle back to switch, light came on, pulled coupling off of pto itself, light still on. Removed again fron PTO switch, light off. Gonna get new switch. Unless someone thinks i need to check further.

If you have the original battery, it is at least 8 yr old. Most lead-acid car batteries have a life of about 5 yrs or less. You may have a dead cell. After the car has sat for a couple of hours, measure the battery voltage. It should read about 12 V or a bit more. The cells are 2 V each. If you battery voltage is 10 V, there is one shorted cell. Drive you car to "Batteries Plus" and have them run load test on it.