I bought my pulls from Knobs4less.com. They had the best prices that I could find, and they emailed and called me when my longer pulls were on backorder. I had free shipping and a good experience. I bought my cup pulls on ebay for about $1.60 per cup. I am very pleased with the quality. (I first bought a sample) I also have hardware that I bought at Menard's that I have had no problems with. The brands were Liberty and Belwith. I check the bags carefully because I once brought home a "newer" version of the hinge I was looking for, though it had the same product number, the style was just slightly different. I had to dig through the bin to find the same packaging as my match. I was relieved that there were enough of the same.

Blowers built for the USA market will, with whatever electronics they might need, be designed for ac operation. Blowers that are induction motors, with or without capacitor start, use the ac directly. CFM for these can be controlled by simple circuits that chop up the ac waveform, in a sense. To my knowledge, no one uses universal motors for this function that could run directly on dc because they are noisy and big EMI generators. However, it is possible to build multi-phase motors that run on synthesized ac waveforms. For historical reasons, these are sometimes called brushless dc torque motors because they emulate the functionality of such motors, but use magnets and switching instead of a wired armature and brushes. Their electronics convert the house power from ac to dc, which is then switched at some frequency (variable) to provide ac to the motor stator coils. The rotor magnets are "locked" to the rotating waveform as the coils are energized and de-energized. So what is really needed is knowing what control is used with what motor, and whether this control can be inserted into the hood where its existing control is, or whether the existing hood control can deal with the blower motor directly. In my Wolf hood, the control is a simple diac/triac circuit that can run almost any induction motor up to some current capability. Since I have a 1500 CFM blower on my roof, obtained from Wolf but constructed by Broan/NuTone, I imagine any lesser blower of that type would run fine. If your Thermador hood has a similar setup, then I'm sure Fantech, for example, can provide an in-line motor of appropriate size and CFM. N.B. It is my opinion that the reason why my Wolf hood variable CFM does not go down to very low air flow rate is that the baffles have to have some minimum air velocity to remove grease by centrifugal extraction. My hot wire anemometer does not go down that far to measure it, but I suspect the minimum flow rate is not less than 20% of max.* In any case, my hood system is fairly quiet on max, and nearly silent on min. The reason is using a remote blower and in-line silencer (from Fantech). Bottom line: I cannot answer what Thermador does, circuit wise, but can guess that they are compatible with more than their own blowers. So the question to be asked of Broan, or Fantech, or Abakka is: Are you compatible with Thermador? If your hood includes a schematic, maybe attached inside its electronics box, then we might have more insight if you can scan it. __________________ *Edit: Reviewing the Hood FAQ, I see that I was able to measure the low speed volumetric flow. The measured value is consistent with the point of this paragraph, if not my guess.

When it is 'black' like that it indicates the RAW wood has been exposed to the minerals in DIRT or water (I see water stains/intrusion at the base of the wall where she's nailing). The 'dirt' is gone but the MINERALS remained LONG ENOUGH to stain the wood (not the finish...the wood itself) a black colour. This is an indication of wood damage...not finish damage. There is no scrubbing that will remove MINERAL STAINS in wood....you need to sand PAST the black stain (honestly....look stains in hardwood floors...you will come up with THOUSANDS of photos). There is no other way. Notice the black stuff to the right...that's water damage. The water evaporated but the MINERALS in the water remained long enough to stain the wood BELOW the finish. There is no cleaner in the world that will get rid of that other than a floor sander.

I have a retail store and wonder which furniture manufactures are the best to work with