Hi GTN, How much money would you like to spend. Drip tape is the way to go. Soaker hoses clog and are more expensive over time because of replacement. Place PVC mainline with drip tape through the actual garden beds. Drip gives more even and controlled flow, handles pressure better and has cheaper fittings than emitter systems. The cheapest method is just 1/2" pvc sch 40 pipe through the beds with small hole drilled in it. Drill holes small, then larger and larger as you check the flow at various spots in the lateral until you are satisfied the plants are getting the amount and rate you want. Life is trial an error. GL Aloha

Okay. You guys are great. Clearly the collective wisdom is not to throw money at the problem - but figure the problem out. Owbist - in my thread on not connecting my husband's vista laptop to our network, I tried quietly, methodically to troubleshoot the issues - to no avail. I found lots of similar frustrations on google - but no solutions that worked - and I think I tried them all - at least to the best of my ability. thanks for those great, easy-to-follow instructions to transfer to an external hard drive. He'll want to do that anyway - even if he keeps this computer. This computer guy is pricey - but where I am in DC they seem to fall in the $125-140/hour range - and they can usually fix a problem. Others that charge $40-75 - that the uninformed think are good - but their know-how is less than what I find here. I tried a few of those locally recommended guys - and they accomplished the simple tasks but also made mistakes I had to hire the more expensive guy to fix. My main complaint with him is that he's wedded to his biases - he hates Vista - so his recommendation is usually to avoid or ditch it. Our struggles with Vista seem to often be how often we're blocked from things or performing simple tasks have all sort of obstacles - for "safety's" sake. Thanks to everyone for pointing out that Windows 7 is just a revamped Vista. I got my first issue of Smart Computing and they were tauting it and described some features I thought I'd love. DA - if W8 is in process, is there any indication of what it will be like? Probably worth waiting for - or at least waiting to hear more about how Windows 7 is panning out. So I'll keep plugging away on my other thread to get him connected. If I don't succeed by Tuesday, the computer guy will come and fix it. I guess we'll stop there. Thanks. Lynn.

zep516...you are right, calling Apple is a good place to start. Thanks. owbist....Not sure I am following you. Is the DVD-R the one that records things permanently and the DVD+R the one that can be repeatedly recorded over? When you say you didn't perservere with the DVD+R, was there something more difficult about using it? Were you recommending to buy the DVD-R because they are cheaper? urlee....first of all, thank you so much for that link. I did not have a good website to go to with audio/visual questions and that looks like a good one. Not sure how you managed to copy/paste the 'visual' directions for where I needed to go, but it is sure impressive! No, I don't need directions on how to do it, because I am probably never going to do that myself, but amazed that someone can...lol. I did a google search on Pioneer 640 and found references to 'not available' any more as you state. That is too bad. Do you know if there is another comparable Recorder on the market? Right now I am renting a Box from Comcast that records TV programs and I have just loved it since I have gotten it. It is so easy to use and fairly reliable. The problem is that you are not 'saving' anything permanently and you can't take anything on the box off and transfer to dvd. Obviously I can't use it to transfer home movies to dvd either. That is a long thread on the Pioneer 640, if I read the whole thing will it answer the question about whether I can actually buy one or will it point me in the direction of a substitute for it? I am just not a person who understands Audio/Visual very well. I can manage most of the time to connect and learn to operate a new piece of equipment by just following along with a manual, but connecting all the equipment and getting it all to do what you want it to do together...well, it is just very intimidating. It is like learning a whole new language and I just don't have the interest, time or energy to do it. If I knew someone who was proficient in it, I would be asking them to come and just set it all up for me and cooking them dinner...lol. But alas, I don't. I could very easily and quickly get to the point where I will throw up my hands and just take the vcr home movies to Ritz camera and spend $30 per vcr tape to have them do the transfer for me. So what I am looking for is easy and simple. That is why I love my comcast box, it was easy to rent it, they installed it and all I have to know is how to work the remote and set up the recording schedule etc. That I can handle. Maybe I should find an Audio/Visual school to send one of my kids to? [g]

For starters, I'd suggest that you get a 1/2 sheet pad sander. Having a collection of sanders...belt, 1/2 sheet, 1/3 sheet, 1/4 sheet & a Porter Cable round pad oscillating sander (uses round disc Velcro backed discs--I bought it almost new & really cheap at a garage sale), the one that I reach for most is the 1/2 sheet vintage Ryobi. When I have to replace it, I'll get another Ryobi (very scarce) or a Porter-Cable 505 or it's Rockwell equivalent (much more common). You'll have to shop used (eBay) because none of them--Ryobi, Rockwell or Porter Cable are being made anymore. The 1/2 sheet sander is ideal for large surfaces--covers the area quickly & fewer stops for paper changes. With the smaller 1/4 & 1/3 sheet sanders that I have (Makitas), I seem to spend more time changing paper than I do actually sanding. Note: I hate the sandpaper clamping on the Makitas so I will not suggest any of their sanders. Buy aluminum oxide sandpaper. Sandpaper is sold in at least a couple of weights--Cabinet or 'C' weight and Finishing or 'A' weight. Cabinet weight is what you want for the machine. Finishing weight has lighter paper & is more flexible for hand sanding. (You can use the A weight on the sander by simply folding the sheet in half & clamping on the sander.) Now, about the round pad oscillating sanders. They're really quite aggressive but not as much so as a belt sander. At some point, you'll probably want one but I'd stick with the 1/2 sheet sander, esp. for a newbie. Don't be afraid of the weight. For the most part, looking at your projects, you'll be using the sander on the horizontal where the weight of the sander is an advantage. I manage it on the vertical OK & I'm just a girl. :-) You'll be needing more frequent breaks when running it vertically. I usually start w/ 100 grit paper & work my way up w/ 150-180 wt, then 220 weight. After 220, I wet the wood to raise the grain & sand the nubs off w/ 330 or 400 weight paper, wet, sand, wet, sand. (That's for furniture--I don't go so far w/ stuff like closet doors, etc.) Including a sandpaper source link. I've been buying from them for years. Here is a link that might be useful: Industrial Abrasives