I'm going to add some comments here that I made on another thread to maybe clarify some of my opinions on OE. As always my thoughts are my opinions based on many years of actually doing, not just accepting what others say. So they are only FWIW to be taken as a person chooses to take them. IMO common logic dictates that like with most infestation, disease or infection, the level they intrude an individual at can vary widely from minor to massive. That is commonly proved out with OE in Danaidae. If a larvae makes it through complete metamorphosis to an imago that can eclose and form OK, even if OE is present it was a relatively minor infestation in that individual. The opposite being if a larva at any instar, pupa or adult that has OE dies without getting through complete metamorphosis, that individual was obviously infested at a much higher level. Unfortuanately no matter at what level (with OE especially), failure to destroy any sick livestock whether it be OE, another parasatoid, viral or bacterial infection in most cases will promote the spread of any of any of them to other individuals. OE is the prominent one that will carry on to generation after generation beyond a given brood, and nothing but complete elimination of any brood within your control that might be infected with it will help slow it down in a colony. Why in my opinion when it comes to livestock even suspected of possibly having OE it's not worth taking any chances with them "for the good of the species as a whole". For those of use who did/do field work with Lepidoptera, that includes wild Danaidae livestock found or adults netted that show any possibilty of hosting OE. NOTE: Even if you have a very strictly controlled gardening and rearing rigime (which I doubt any of you have), you won't eliminate all of any OE present. So don't go slap happy destroying everything in sight. Instead be analytical and logical, and then decide what is reasonable for your own circumstances. Yes, livestock can have OE and not show any of the so called "visible" signs of it, which IMO are not proof positive of OE anyway and can be from other causes. In part why on my OE thread I offered some habit and condition factors that could also suggest OE is present as well even though they also do not prove OE and can also be from other causes. Bottom line, to prove OE is NOT present in an individual for certain takes a microscope or loupe. And in almost all cases if a larvae it will have to be euthanized to test with any certainty. A possibility to check for OE in pupa is to test the purge of the last instar larva for OE, but unforunately that is not 100%. I'm a lot more scientific in my appraoch to Lepidoptera than all of the folks here, so I don't accept things at face value. I am also skeptical of data from other sources that are not proven to me. The Internet and publications commonly breed misinformation about everything, including Lepidoptera, that is passed on by ACE's who probably got it from another one. So it's prudent not to trust every thing you read on the Internet or in books if it's not from a source you trust. Larry

after reading your post, I wonder if my cats have OE, I have few cats that tried to pupate but didn't make it, it got stuck into "J" position, and died. some did make it to chrysalis stage, but half turned dark green, and died, those who made it to the 7th day, didn't even eclosed, then died, and some just came out and too weak, and died, but I was looking for signs of OE, like described in the net, has a blotchy spots on chrysalis, crumpled wings, but so far none of it I saw, they just died...that's like one batch, after cleaning the cage container the cats seems fine. now I have to look for microscope for me to use as well. I have no hurt feelings when I euthanized those nearly dead, I guess I am so used to it already. I have noticed a lot of wild monarch butterflies have been flying in and out in our small property, also other butterflies such as gulf frits, which made my yard as their "station" because of my passionvine creeping in the front yard. I have swallowtails, cabbage white and lesser grass something. I am loving it, but I hope to see more monarchs, and hopefully monarch clusters in the future:-).

Is it a gas range? Depending on the range specs, any combustibles must be at least 30" above the cooking surface - sometimes 36". Depending on your specs, that would leave the total hood height of 21" - 27" (leaving room for crown). It can definitely be done. I design hoods based around specific blowers all the time and there are plenty of blowers available that would fit in that height. It is not difficult to do. Often, I just provide panels/moldings/valances and the contractors build the hoods themselves. Check the range specs. Make sure they are adhered to. Building inspectors in my area will fail homeowners if clearances are not met. Good luck.

In the past I have seen messages that include a picture. How is this done? I cannot see any option to insert a picture in the message fields.