Ggreenwald: YOU are going to have to find the manual for the engine on your mower to determine the amount of oil it requires. Briggs and Tecumseh both provide free information regarding their engines, oil capacity, and filter information. Now, about the dethatcher I use; I have included a link at the end of this post. I used to use the dethatcher blade by itself, but constantly ran into stalling and low power issues because the dethatcher blade is so light in weight. Since the blades on all lawnmowers act as a weighted flywheel, I reasoned that running the dethatcher in conjunction with the regular blade would mitigate the problems I was having. I was right because when running the dethatcher blade with the regular blade, I had plenty of power and stalling problems came to an end. Please remember that excessively high spots or other obstacles WILL STILL stall or stop the blade. YOU will have to experiment to see how low to adjust the mower to do a good dethatching job. I wear out a set of springs each year and they should be disposed of once the tip is too worn out and the shock absorbing flex of the spring is lost. This year I am going to experiment with a 20" blade attached to the bottom of my 21" blade to increase the vacuum effect in hopes of picking up bigger heavier stuff without resorting to lowering the deck height. I don't know the math or physics of the slightly heavier weight acting as a flywheel, but so far, the added weight of the dethatcher blade has not caused anything out of the ordinary to happen and the engine still starts, runs, and stops without any unusual behavior. DO NOT mount the dethatcher blade perpendicular to the cutting blade as the weight of one may cancel the flywheel effect of the other. I put bolts through the dethatcher blades two holes that are out from the mounting hole. When I butt the bolts against the cutting blade, the blades cross each other at an angle. I butt the bolts protruding through the dethatcher blade (Make sure that the blades are flat against each other and not hanging up on the bolt threads or nuts.) up against the cutting blade and then tighten the mounting bolt with the outside diameter of the cupped washer (You had better have a cupped washer, otherwise buy a new one.) pressing against the blade to hold both blades in place. Good luck! Fairyprincess Here is a link that might be useful: This is the dethatcher blade I use and I change the springs every year.

Oh wow...those tiles sure are pretty. Like crackle tiles but even better, almost pearlescent. Sigh...I love living vicariously through other people's renos. And your kitchen is a stunner. I immediately think of mamadadapaige's kitchen when I hear "herringbone accent above the kitchen". She had 2x6s I believe, and did a thinnish pencil rail that's flush with the backsplash. I liked how she did hers. I think you should do a simple pencil liner because to me, the whole point of using the same tile for your herringbone accent is to do a subtle change, which calls for a subtle frame. If you did your thick picture frame it's like "look at me!! i'm different than the other tile" which makes sense if you did an accent with a totally different tile size. But you're doing the same 3x6s but in a herringbone pattern, instead of the subway pattern which goes everywhere else. So after my long explanation I say - do the thin one. For the backsplash on the peninsula/window wall, you know what I'd do? I would only put the backsplash on the three walls within the bay window cubby area and stop them there. I'd take them to just under the window trim. To the right of the bay window, carry it the same height (to the bottom of the window trim) on the little piece of wall under your outlet (the outlet to the left of your coffee maker), then pull the backsplash up to below your cabinets on that sliver of wall above the coffeemaker. That, to me, would accomplish several things: It would keep that nice blue paint showing on that window wall as I personally wouldn't want to cover it up, give you the backsplash you need to visually relate/connect that window wall to the range wall, and of course provide the protection you need above the sink from water splashage. To the left, I don't think you need to put any backsplash past that left bay window. Just keep it all bare and painted. I don't know if I explained that right...hopefully it makes sense.

At the risk of sounding simplistic, why do you need a PDA? This gadget isnÂt going to help you with your piles of stuff. You personally are going to have to deal with your mess. Not some gadget. ItÂs been my experience when people have organizational problems, no gadget is going to do what they want: clean up the mess. Save yourself some money and think simplicity. Start sorting your stuff in 10-15 minutes increments. What you need, keep for filing, what you donÂt need put in a box for either shredding or the trash. If you are concerned about the trash box, keep it for no more that one month. Then get rid of it. Meanwhile, start something new and commit yourself to putting all of your mail and receipts in a box or envelope for one month. Weekly, sort through what you need to keep and need to toss. The stuff that you donÂt need, separate with a rubber band from what you need to keep. As you go through bills, write on you Calendar or schedule when you bills are due. Keep what you donÂt need for no more than a month, then shred or toss it. Neatly store monthly receipts in envelopes with important categories and $ figures on the front. Start over the next month. SG

"It is reasonable to only own one small dog in a crowded urban area." I merely suggested that those who live in crowded urban areas should choose a dog that would fit in with that lifesyle - such as a small lap dog. A larger dog that needs lots of exercise or any dog that is hyper and active would probably not be suited for city living - especially if the owner were unwilling or unable to walk the dog (on a leash of course). I believe people should look at their lifestyles when deciding whether to have a dog and deciding which dog to select. There are websites set up for this purpose - where you can put your wants and lifestyle in and they will come up with a percentage match of which dog breed might be best for your situation. A dog is a living creature and deserves consideration. It is not wise to buy a dog at the spur of the moment like you would a pack of gum or a soda pop. Such choices often create misery for the dog, owner, and community. "One owner has a limited amount of time, energy, and money to take care of pets - it is reasonable to restrict the amount of pets per household and to restrict who can own dogs and cats." I believe the above is clear and simple but apparently not. I have heard of collectors who believe that they can house and care for an unlimited number of dogs or cats - but this is a form of mental illness. Most sane people would agree that one person or one family can only care for a limited amount of dogs or cats. At some point it gets unreasonable and you are labeled mentally ill collectors. Now should the authorities allow animals and the community to suffer so they can access each situation to see if this person can own 1, 3, 5, 8, 10, 15, 25, 40, 66, 138, etc dogs or cats or should they set some sort of limit or limits based on zoning and space available? Do animal owners pay for animal control to assess each animal owning household or even assess those households with complaints? The answer in most communities is no. Animal control is usually underfunded and undermanned and animals and their owners are out of control. Animal owners whine and whine about regulations and complain about animal cruelty etc. Animal cruelty will probably never end but the one thing that could put a real dent in animal cruelty is strict regulations and strict enforcement. All of us have to conform to regulations and laws because they were deemed to be in the best interest of the community. For instance we must drive our cars under a certain speed. Many of us can drive faster and still be safe. However, many people will push their limits and drive at a speed where they are unable to control their vehicle. So a speed limit had to be established for everybody. Same with traffic lights. Many of us could function without a light telling us when to go and when to stop. However, some of us would not yield to other drivers without that red light and the possibility of a traffic ticket. The examples go on and on. Basically societies have to have rules and regulations to function properly and the larger and more dense the society the more rules and regulations you need. What you would suffer from only owning one or two dogs or owning no dogs if you couldn't handle the responsibilities and costs of dog ownership pales in comparision to those who are drivin out of their homes and made physically ill due to the constant irritation of a barking dog or dogs. Remember by endorsing the status quo you are condoning the abuse and neglect of animals and sacrificing the health and safety of humans in your community. Also you think nothing of those who have had to move out of their homes (often losing the value of their home) due to living near a nuisance barking or a vicious dog and its unstable owners. Nor are you considering people and other animals who have been attacked or attacked and killed due to irresponsible dog owners who create vicious dogs. Your unwillingness to have rules, regulations, and enforcement strikes me as suspicious and selfish. You should welcome rules and regulations to protect all of these abused and neglected dogs and cats. If you are doing the right thing then you shouldn't have much to worry about. If you own a small pack of dogs then giving up a few or moving to a rural more spacious area should not be too much to ask to protect the rights and lives of the community and dogs.