I do not know how new your unit is but if you have insurance I would headed that route and throw in a little extra money to upgrade. Unless you have no other alternative, I would send it through insurance..lightning can do some crazy stuff. Pinholes in coils and burns on bearings... who knows what high dollar items have been stressed that will work right now but will give up shortly.

All you want is to not have to use the apple wall plug and still have fast charging? Your question could be clearer. Your best bet is as above stated...buy it. If you want to mod the cable thats a little different. I was looking into making a hub useable for fast charging and data transfer at the same time. I found it to be complicated by apple. They add ressistors to there plug lines to disallow fast charging from some devices. The resistor can vary from iphone models. I was looking at the time the 4 was the thing so maybe things have changed. There was a company that would sell the mod parts but I forget the name. For some reason I think they could not sell completed units... legalese crap. In the end I never made the time to do the mod. Just use the wall plugs. You make me wonder if fast charging will work in the hard wired wall usb outlets I bought... never though to check. I never had an issue other than hubs. You may be better served asking at a place like XDAdevelopers. Edit...http://gizmodo.com/5029844/simple-hack-turns-usb-charger-units-into-iphone-chargers This post was edited by Noctua on Sat, Jan 25, 14 at 13:07

Here's a low cost solution for you that might be even better than recessed receptacles. There is a type of extension cord made that goes by the name of FlatPlug or SnugPlug that has a redesigned plugin that is only 1/4" high when plugged in and the cord comes out of the "side" so there's nothing to stick up. They're great when you have no clearance behind furniture or want something that is totally flat with a floor plugin. Below is a link that will show you what they look like. Would something like this solve your problem? Here is a link that might be useful: FlatPlug

Thanks for all the ideas and information. I'm not sure if this matters but the overhang of counter behind the bases, about 8", is intended to be on hinges that allow that section to flip down. I need that flexibility there in order to be able to use all the leaves in my DR table. Cpartist, because that overhang is not going to be a solid counter, the Mockett won't work there or over the drawer and tray bases without us having to cut short the top drawers. I hate to lose that storage. But I'll keep the option in my back pocket. Avatarwalt, if I understand it right, the reason for this rule is because some small appliances only have 2-foot power cords. They don't want people to use extension cords in the kitchen. Probably especially by a sink. Thus, when there's a break in the counter (aisle, doorway, sink, range, etc.) there must be a plug-in no more than 24" away and then every 48" along a stretch of continuous counter. Rebunky, that grid isn't 1-foot squares. It was done on the Ikea planner and, for some bizarre reason, the grid is an odd size, around 7.5", I think. We've actually scooted back the peninsula a tad since the drawing was made, Our aisle will be 62" counter-to-counter. LOVE it. If your DH has any tips when he awakes, I'd sure appreciate it. Desertsteph, see my response to cpartist. That would be a great idea if we weren't planning on flipping down the counter. Although, as I'm typing, maybe that would still work as I probably will never need it anyway. It then becomes a wall plug for the dining/sitting area. Hmmm.... Mushcreek, another see my response to cpartist. That was a great solution for your space but it won't work in mine. Your windows go to the counter, right? Interesting, I never thought of the plug-in problem in that situation. That's something to be aware of when we help people plan their kitchens, isn't it? Thanks for bringing that to our attention. Our window over our prep sink is just a few inches above the counter, just wide enough to put in a plug placed horizontally. I plan on all the kitchen plugs to be placed low like that, horizontally, so the one by the sink isn't an oddball. Sophie, that's an interesting idea. I'd prefer not to add another 1.5" to the peninsula length. I would really like that access point to be about 4-5" wider than it is but then I'd have to get rid of the tray storage there which is so conveniently located. I wish we had gone with a 33" sink base to gain a couple of inches. The opening is going to be 44" which is adequate but it would have been nicer to have it just a bit wider. Another idea to keep in my back pocket. Thanks! Scrappy, thanks for that link. Very helpful. I didn't realize there was a different rule for peninsulas and islands. If I'm reading it right, this means our plan meets code and we're good to go. Hope so as our intended locations make the most sense to me as they'll be accessible if we ever did need to plug something in there, which will be rare if ever, but not require weird tweaks like cutting short drawers like the Mockett would cause. The one at the end of the peninsula will be in the top of the tray cabinet, just under the single, top drawer, and none of my trays are that tall so it's dead space anyway. I'll double-check with our code officer. Thanks again! Thanks again, Everyone! If anybody else has further ideas or knowledge about this, I'll look forward to hearing it. ETA: jdez, I will. But now, with Scrappy's link, I have ammunition to argue for my plan, if necessary. :)