"I did remove the valve cover and everything was normal. nothing broken and valves moving up and down." What we are looking for is are the the valves actually closing. Excessive looseness in the rocker would be an indication of a loose valve seat or more likely debris between the valve and seat. This is provided there isn't an adjuster problem. No clearance at the rocker won't allow the valve to shut either. I've seen these valves stick, so make sure they are moving freely. That is normally due to old fuel deposits on valves after the engine has been sitting for a while however. Popping sound is peculiar. ..

***" I'm thinking maybe a bad head gasket?"*** Absolutely not! While a head gasket is not a good thing at all, it is also not something that causes sudden stopping of the engine. And while a failed head gasket causes a REDUCTION of the compression, it DOES NOT cause a total loss of all compression. Head gasket failure in these engines results in copious volumes of blue/white smoke out the exhaust in worst case scenarios. The 2 possibilities offered by tomplum (3 if you count the thumb) are most likely. And while intake valve sticking is sometimes a problem in these engines, I have never heard of a valve suddenly sticking open after the engine is already running and warmed up. Intake valve sticking open is something that occurs because the intake valve just happened to be in the open position when the engine finally stopped rotating when cut off at the end of the previous use cycle/event. The engine cools with the valve open and makes it possible for varnish on the valve stem/valve guide to "set hard" and immobilize the valve (at least temporarily). When the intake valve is open like that, the next time the engine is cranked, the valve may not "unstick" as soon as the cam lobe runs away from the tappet. This often cause the push rod to fall out of position and come loose from the rocker arm, or worse, it gets trapped on the edge of the rocker arm cup or ball and if that happens, the result can be a bent push rod, a bent valve, a bent rocker arm, or all three. A sticking intake valve seldom occurs without leaving some damaged parts in its wake. You need to remove the spark plug and look into the spark plug hole with a good light and watch the piston while you rotate the engine by hand. If you can see the piston moving up and down when the engine rotates, the connecting rod and crankshaft are in good order. If the piston does not move at all, the engine has suffered a rare form of connecting rod separation. You did not state whether there were any "unusual noises" accompanying the stopping of the engine, but connecting rod separation is usually a very violent and noisy (sometimes with shocking visual effects too) catastrophic failure. But, there have been a few cases where the rod separates in a relatively quiet manner. The possibility of an exhaust valve seat ejecting from the head and holding the exhaust valve open is the most likely thing to have occurred, considering your description of how/when the engine stopped. If this turns out to be the case, you are also likely to learn that it was caused by either a build up of grass clippings inside the cooling air duct/shroud around the cylinder, or that mice have built nests inside the cooling air duct. The overheating of the cylinder and head is what causes a valve seat to eject from the head.

FIP - female, with pipe threads (could actually be on a PVC or other fitting) Compression is just a method for attaching to a smooth pipe. So the 3/8 inch tubing has a compression fitting with a ferrule probably, while the 1/2-inch end is threaded to attach to a female pipe thread -- I think. I was a little confused about the T because you said this was a label on the hose. Most faucet fittings use 3/8 inch tubing, and most stop valves fit on 1/2 inch pipe, so those are typical connections on T's and valves. It sounds almost exactly the same as a dishwasher hookup. You can buy an all-brass T that will screw onto the 3/8 outlet of the cold water stop valve, and it has two threaded outlets, 3/8 for the dishwasher and faucet. I got mine at ace hardware. The filter would need a threaded female end (like a garden hose) or you would use a nut and ferrule (compression) fitting. The type of tubing makes the difference on whether the ferrule is brass or plastic or something special.

Thanks. I found an odd route for my specific need. I just downloaded image resizer. At first, I thought it didn't work, but it turns out that it doesn't work with a picture that is on the desk top. I gather it is designed to work with pics in the Pictures folder only. Since I didn't have a need now, I didn't make a copy, but it sure looks like it will do what I need just like I asked assuming I have pictures where it wants them. Just what I asked for Richard, thanks