My guess is rose slugs--teeny little green wormlike things, usually on the back side of the leaf but sometimes curving along the edge of the leaf. In this case, the damage may already by done and the rose slug has been attacked by the good predators. But if not, the good predators will come along in a week or two after the slugs begin their chomping of the leaves. While you wait for them, you can pick the teeny green worms off and, if you have the stomach, squish them--or toss them out in the middle of the lawn. I doubt if they will find their way back. Kate

Out here we have national labs that build a-bombs for a living and I fix softeners for the engineers and physicists that screw those puppies together. Your achievements or status in other fields doesn't necessarily get your softener fixed. Wise men know what they know and know what they don't know. It isn't being rude it's simply being honest. That's EXACTLY your problem... you're looking at this like an engineer would instead of how a plumber or softener tech would. This ain't airplanes and you don't know what you're doing so you don't know what you see and don't know how to fix it. you weren't doing the routine maintenance on your softener and created the salt bridge problem which may or may not be the cause of these other problems. Dumb it down this isn't that hard to troubleshoot. Go all the way back to square one. Why did you replace the injector and screen originally before the salt bridge? You may hear or feel the ball in the check valve move but there may be a blockage inside the brine pickup. Instead of trying to impress me with your engineering prowess read what I posted... "If brine isn't sucked out with the brine pickup connected but brine is sucked out with no brine pickup then what does that tell you? At the end of regeneration is the control valve putting water back in the brine tank with the brine pickup removed?" There are other causes for not putting water back into the brine tank such as seal and/or piston problems among other things. You want someone to reach through your monitor and show you exactly what's wrong when you can't accurately describe the symptoms. You're the only eyes on the problem and don't have the knowledge or experience to see what's wrong even when it's right in front of you. Believe it or not the service manual troubleshooting guide covers most of the problems and fixes. It does not go into the minutia or show illustrated step-by-step repairs because the service manual is intended for techs with a working knowledge of control valves and simply covers those unique properties of that specific model and is not intended as a do-it-yourself step-by-step guide for homeowners or DIYers. Are aircraft tech manuals intended for DIYers? After a 50+ post thread and this new thread, that you needn't have started, I admit my failure in not being able to resolve your softener problem. My fingers hurt from all this typing so I'm out of here.

Oh poor guy!... On the subject of eating things, my granddaughter's orange tabby cat, Gary... he ate an entire package of 25 new hair ties. In the X-ray's his intestines looked like a braided rope. We forked out the 1200 for surgery and he recovered great. Then 2 years later he somehow got up under our daughter's sewing machine, pulled out and ate an entire bobbin of black thread so back for more surgery. They had to take his entire intestines out and lay them out on the table, 12 feet of intestines they said. They had to make small incisions every few inches, snip and pull the thread out. When they got up close to his stomach the last bit wouldn't come out. They looked in his mouth and it was wrapped around the base of his tongue. That surgery took a while to get over. He must of learned his lesson as that was the last of his eating things he shouldn't, that we know of anyway. But... this spring he somehow contacted a fungus infection in his lungs and didn't make it... after a couple more thousand dollars in trying to save him....

As you try again A Few tricks w/Glass. Many times a chippy cut can be the saw and blade.... OK operator error too. I.E. unblanced saw, shot brushs/bearings, the table not squared up and moving smoothly, vibrations coming thru the saw/stand an unbalanced or warped blade et etc. etc.. few cut tricks... 1. Make several passes at a cut . You do this by adjusting the plunge of the saw/cut depth. Rather than making one forced pass. sometimes ill cut thru both sides and end in the middle.. 2. Use a speed sqaure and a razor knive to first Score the coated backside side of the tile along the cut line. This will limit blowout of the coating @ the cut break line 3.Contrary to popular belief Thick kerf Glass blades require removing more material and actually are meant to slow down the cut (notice its really hard to push glass thru the saw.) For me I have found my best result to be with a segmented porclelain thin kerf blade but YOU MUST GO extra extra slow and keep the water flowing on cut. 4. Use variable speed grinder and polish pads to finish the visible edge of the chippy cuts. Theres more to it, sometimes scoring certain sized glass with a snap cutter is the key...-best of luck this time