You can repot Sarracenias any time of the year and at any age with no problem. They are tough plants that can even take bare root repotting in stride. Just be careful to minimize root damage and they will continue growing as if nothing happened. Remember to use only acidic sphagnum peat moss and perlite or silica sand with a 1/1 moss to drainage material mix. Only use mineral free water like distilled, reverse osmosis, or rain water for all carnivorous plants. As many of the other growers noted, only the squat shaped Huntsman Horn Sarracenia purpurea has no lid, so allows water in so that bacteria can form in the rain water it catches to produce nitrogen from decaying, drowned insect prey. Other Sarracenias tend to use more digestive enzymes of their own manufacture than S. purpurea does, so do not allow rain water to drip into their pitchers by creating a lid over the opening. Venus Flytraps can weaken if they flower, however; since they do so in the wild with no problem whatsoever, it is only the captive plants that are kept in store shelves for several months before being bought that are in danger. If the plants have adequate light they will prosper, flowers and all. Usually they weaken and die if grown indoors unless you provide strong florescent light of at least 12000 lumens. If you can provide a south facing window with florescent light as a supplement, even better. My Flytrap flowered last year in 12000 lumens of florescent cool white shop lights 1-4 inches from the leaves and has 6 half grown young it produced from its rhizome as well as seedlings. It is now flowering a second time indoors with the south window and the florescent light, so I expect a healthier plant and greater seed production this year. Should I place the plant outside (if I were able to do so without killing it in widely changing climates) it would likely do even better due to full sunlight.

roselee - thanks for the suggestion for the otho b gone. I guess I am a glutton for punishment in that department. With the exception of fire ants (and that's after I'v exhausted other options), I am totally organic. :) melvalena -Thanks so much! My mama was quite an amazing gardener and decorator (think southern living) and such an inspiration. She gave me the passion for gardening and I can't think of a better way to honor her either. Barbara- thanks for reminding me! :) I am really hoping I spaced things well enough. Kathy - thanks so much for a great suggestion! I am anxious to get some vines going and this will make it so much easier. pjtexgirl - thanks!! The little girl statue came from my mama's garden. She's been a fixture since I was a little girl. My sweet puppy that is in the last picture....we just had to put her down last week and boy it's been tough. She was always content to lay in the yard with me while I gardened. She is missed so much. Thought I would add another shot of my angel helper Sadie. She was napping after a busy day helping me outside.

"making one end of the bin neutral with new bedding might give them an escape haven." This sounds like a good plan even for those with out Euros. "I believe there is enough oxygen inside the larger bins to hold the worms through the night." I was in a seminar room at the Energy Efficient Builders Association yearly event in South Carolina about 1992. The presenter had a monitor on the wall that measured not oxygen but the build up of carbon dioxide. By half an hour into the talk the monitor showed the carbon dioxide to be above that which is healthy levels. The worms may have enough oxygen but the build up of carbon dioxide by the worms and other processes in the bin may be what is driving them. If the lid must be on then how about using a fish tank air pump to pop some air into the bin and cycle out the carbon dioxide as a few week experiment? When people talk about keeping the lights on for more than a week I wonder if it is worth the expense. Then I think about low voltage lights that will probably do the job just as well. And then I think about back up. If the power goes out at night then what? LED's might be our friends here. Very Slippery Cellar Stairs? I do not have Euros. I know nothing about them.

I have the same (similar)Frigidaire microwave in the house I purchased a couple of years ago. It's a CPLMV169DCD (the newest one has the last 3 letters changed). Anyway, I was surprised to see steam venting from the front left corner of the "vent area" on this "exterior vented" system, when boiling something like rice in the microwave, which we do all the time. The situation got critical, when I realised it was ruining the cherry cabinets over top the microwave... replacing one cabinet door would, no doubt, be a major run-around with finding matching finishes from the (probably) discontinued line etc. etc... as always happens... so I want to get to the bottom of the microwave steam issue. I removed the microwave and took the thing apart, and found that there appears to be no way to direct steam from the microwave into the venting for the rear ductwork... and steam is very difficult to control once it starts flowing. So I contacted Frigidaire on their website and got the pat answer that the system is set up for front venting and rear venting and you have to change the orientation of the fan motor etc. etc. This appears to be BS... that stuff is obvious to manipulate during installation... there is no design feature for getting the steam from the microwave cabinet into the venting system... the venting system is only for air being sucked from the (very inadequate) vents on the bottom of the microwave cabinet... a sort of range vent system that works very poorly and does not capture much air-flow from the stove top (anything on the front two burners does not get captured by the "range hood" vents.) So I found an outfit in Calgary that just does installation for the large appliance retailers and got talking to a technician who finally remembered that he got the run-around from Frigidaire when trying to fix up the exact same problem for a client and he admitted that it seems to be a design problem that Frigidaire has not addressed and continues to act as if it is not a real problem. This is likely due to the fact that most people don't actually cook in their microwaves, but just heat the odd coffee-cup... and they call this microwave part of the "Professional Series"... that is laughable... no professional would consider such a very low-grade machine. In addition to the steam problem, here is the list of defects on this 2-year old machine... - fan for range-hood has only one speed (hi and very noisy) since installation (previous owner did not notice, before it was too late for warranty service I guess) - turntable motor broke after one year... very lightweight part which I removed from the bottom and fortunately is easy to replace... but it will burn out again! - inside light has burnt out after 2 years only When you look at the parts and manufacturing of this machine you find that it is substandard compared to something like Sharp even in the $120 range. Anyway, I am now looking at replacing the microwave with a proper range hood only and getting a microwave that sits on the counter. I managed to rig the inside vents etc. so that half the steam gets sucked out by the fan, but it's still not perfect and my wife continues to steam-burn the cabinets forgetting to turn on the fan or boiling something for 15 minutes or more. I'm not sure that this helps, but at least I have "vented my steam"! Cheers