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| How do I clean it?
I just started living in a home with "poured concrete" floors..(wording from owner) no carpet or wood. Its just like the sidewalk or garage floor with a some sealer on it. Lines/cracks (1/4 deep) make 2 by 2 squares for 1000 sq ft. Dusting or mopping cleans the surface but nothing removes the spots, grease,scum. The Cracks are worse...Very dirty. Using a knife I have dug out the "stuff". Dirty, hair, crumbs, and I don't want to know what else. It took me 1/2 hour+ to do one crack. Driving me crazy.... Help and thanks..My first post after lots of reading forum. |
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| I think you rent a scrubber and a water sucking shop vac and scrub and suck the filth up.....and bill your landlord! Or call the baord of health and see what the guide lines are... Sounds like it's sort of living on the street....with a roof and without the rain to wash things off! Linda C |
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| I have a problem with this too. I have a bluestone slab at the foot of my fireplace and I cannot get it clean. Someone suggested myriotic acid, but it is sort of dangerous to work with, so I hesitate. I'm going to go to the nearest hardware store and ask their suggestions. Good luck |
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- Posted by jenathegreat (My Page) on Tue, Aug 8, 06 at 15:01
| Concrete "tile look" floors are pretty popular now. In my previous home we had concrete in the living room (meant as a temporary measure after nasty carpet was removed, it lasted 3+ years). DH painted the floor with latex paint and covered with several coats of oil-based poly. Held up great. But we didn't have the pseudo-grout-line cracks you have. I don't know what your floors are sealed with, but we used vinegar and water to mop with. For regular cleaning though, we just used a vaccuum with a "bare floor" setting. I think that once the "grout-lines" are cleaned out, that you would be able to keep them clean just by vaccuuming regularly. Perhaps a grout brush would be helpful in cleaning out the cracks? Not sure what you mean by "spots, grease, scum" that won't come up with mopping - do you think that the concrete might have been been dirty before they sealed it? If so, they're there for good. If it's on top of the sealer, it should come off with 409 or some other general purpose cleanser. |
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| In a commercial setting, those saw cut control joints you have been struggling to clean out are commonly filled with caulk which would be one potential solution for you. Or fill them with something else...epoxy comes to mind. |
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- Posted by antoinettee (My Page) on Sun, Nov 23, 08 at 17:27
| I have a recently stained concrete floor that has been sealed with a lacquer sealant. It was subsequently cleaned using a mix of water and WD40. The WD40 left a residue that feels like a greasy film and looks as if the finish is dulled. Any ideas on how to remove the WD40 from the floor without damaging the sealant? |
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- Posted by Lee Templeton(harpdds@yahoo.com) onWed, Apr 20, 11 at 14:21
| Would like to paint concrete floors in a house built in 1925 that has concrete fllors. First I want to clean them- the floors once had linoleum over the concrete so there is some type of mastic-tar? residue. Don't really want to use muriatic acid inside. How do you recommend cleaning and what painting technique |
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- Posted by flooring_Houston (My Page) on Tue, Nov 15, 11 at 6:27
| Learning how to properly maintain your flooirng can help it last longer. There are harsh cleaning chemicals that might affect the appearance of your conrete flooring especially if you hvae opted for the stained or epoxy coated kind. Thank you for the tips. The given photos above are inspiring! |
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| Try store brand "sudsy" ammonia. It's cheap (I paid $1,79 for a gallon, dilute with water) and strong (strong fumes, too). apply with a scrub brush and rinse thoroughly. |
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