I made the below post on the Fruits forum in relation to acidification of water for blueberries. I thought I would repeat it here, as it could just as easily be used as a less expensive mode of fertilizer injection, or pH + fert mix injection. The injector is attached to my hose bib by a 5 ft hose, and a 1 gallon milk jug acts as my reservoir of dilute acid (for now, a more permanent and secure 5 gal bucket is in the works). Then, and 50 ft hose and a standard shower wand is attached as my distribution device. Just be aware, that changing the settings on a sprayer, or adding a second hose will add backpressure, and change the mix. It still works, but will need adjustment to maintain the same ratio. ____________________________________________________ I spent more than my budgeted amount on plants this year, so the addition of a fancy injector for acidification of water for lowering the pH of my irrigation water as out of the question. With almost 30 blueberry bushes, and living in a very dry climate (both low humidity, and very little rain), watering via buckets or watering cans, each treated to adjust pH was also not a viable option. My solution is a venturi device to pull acidified water into a stream of water and then distributed via a hose. Here is the second attempt to build a satisfactorily working injector. The first attempt was to use a ½ inch injector bought off ebay. Unfortunately, the smallest injector I could find on ebay required a flow rate that could not be delivered through a hose and hose end sprayer. Already on order was the Mazzei 283 in the picture above. Although still ½ inch threads, the injector is much smaller, and hence, designed to operate at much lower flows. I had to cut and mend the first attempted setup in order to fit the Mazzei, as the Mazzei was about an inch shorter. Hence the coupling next to the ball valve. This setup worked, but the ball valve left lots to be desired in the way of adjustment of the pressure differential on the two sides of the injector device. The injectors function is regulated by the amount of pressure differential between the input and the output, and the resulting flow rate. By opening the bypass ball valve, and letting pressure increase on the downstream side of the injector, less injected material is pulled into the stream at the venturi. Conversely, the injection rate can be increased by closing the valve, and increasing the pressure differential. I’m using 98% sulfuric acid, significantly diluted into a jug. This mixture, of which I’ve tried several concentration rates, ranged from 12 ml to 21 ml per gallon of water. This diluted mixture is then piped to the injector, and when a portion of this is mixed with the irrigation water, the overall resulting pH coming out the hose end is adjusted. As I said, the ability to precisely adjust the pH of the resulting water was lacking. And, if I wanted to use regular water, or less acidified water for fruit trees, or other uses, I would either have to pull off the hose and rearrange things, or open the ball valve all the way, and then readjust the pH through titration, and attempt to get the ball valve in just the right position. To address the adjustability, and add an additional bypass to simplify changeover to non-adjusted water, I built the following injector setup. Here is an exploded view of most of the parts, prior to assembly. I ended up adding a 200 mesh filter, as the secondary irrigation water here can be very dirty, and the orifice in the injector is small enough that it could get clogged. The use of a gate valve provides sufficient control, even if it still is not as precise as I would like it to be. I suppose one could use a needle valve for fine adjustments, but incorporating one wouldn't be as simple. And the additional ball valve allows me to simply open it to not inject acid, or close it to use the injection capabilities. The pH in my potting mix is a little high right now, so I’m adjusting the water coming out the end of my hose sprayer to a pH of 4.5 for the time being. After a few waterings, I’ll crack the gate valve open a little bit more (or I could add less sulfuric acid to the dilute I’m injecting), and put the pH closer to 5 or 5.5. I haven’t carefully tracked the costs of this setup, and I’ve spent extra in the various tinkering and rebuilds, but I think it is reasonable to say that one can be built for less than $50, presuming you already have tools and pvc cement. $60 if not. The injector is the most expensive part, about $30. A pvc gate valve is spendy, at about $7, which I found online, although some people say they can be found at their big box hardware stores. I suppose one could use a metal one, since it doesn’t come in direct contact with the acid, but I didn’t feel like dealing with any corrosion that could be possible. The rest can be obtained at any hardware store with a decent sprinkler component selection.

It sounds like one of the pinion gears is backwards. Do you hear clicks from both sides when you pull backwards with the transmission not engaged? The gears go on the axle with the open side facing the same direction. If one is reversed the wheel on the "wrong" side will lock in place and not spin when pulled backwards and you will hear clicks from that side when pushing it forward. Bk bk - the axle springs ca be ordered from www.greenpartsstore.com or through a John Deere dealer.

I've used Toro 22040's in my lawn care business for 15 ears. The trany/drive system is probably similiar if not identical to the commercial mowers. If they weren't problem free workhorses, I would not have kept making the same mistake for 15 years Here are the secrets to the rear wheel miseries on Toros. 1. USE ONLY Marine Grade grease on the rear wheel height adjuster grease zerks. You will be amazed at how something so simple can make such a dramatic performance difference. I found out accidentally when I grabbed the grease gun for the outboard by mistake. Causes of Rear Wheel Slippage. 1. The pinion gear is worn down. They are softer metal than the geared wheel rim. They are supposed to wear down because they are easier and cheaper to replace than the wheel rim itself. You probably don't have split rims which are on the commercials. Or, you allowed a worn pinion gear to grind to long on the geared wheel half and now both need to be replaced. 2. The drive shaft is slotted for a key. The key is rounded over OR you have been using the machine in muddy conditions and the slot is filled with mud, the spring under the key is broken or compressed with aforementioned mud and you haven't been giving the wheel a shot of grease after using it in the mud. The drive shaft is designed so that when grease is pumped into the zerk, the dirt and gunk is washed out of the keyway. Clean the keyway, buy a new spring and key reinstall and give it a few pumps of grease. 3. You been grinding away so long that the keyway on the drive shaft has been wallowed out and the key now sits sideways more or less and doesn't catch the pinion gear. 4. You disassembled the wheel, removed the pinion gear and reinstalled the pinion gear backwards. Yes, there is a right way and a wrong way for the pinion gear to go on. 5. The e-clip that holds the pinion gear in place is missing and has been chewed up by the pinion gear and geared wheel half. 6. And finally, from the symptoms you have provided either the roller bearing or needle bearing or both is shot. When ever you have excessive play either side to side or it looks like the rear wheel drops down when you lift the rear of the mower up, this is what you problem is. The rear wheel adjuster ran about 40.00 bucks the last time I checked but they are easily and cheaply rebuilt by punching the bearings out, taking them to a bearing shop and getting non Toro bagged bearings for under 8 bucks. You don't need a press to get them back in. Just a vice, small hammer and the old needle bearing to use a a seat to get the new one in. the roller bearing can just be hammered in with a piece of wood flush with the adjuster. You will also need a split ring pliers to remove the adjuster

Seems many people don't realize todays mower corps say not to change oil is only to sell more units, even making it harder to change trans oil on many units so we wont. Why they doing that? Those who believe its not needed & dont change it really don't understand todays mowers or these manufactures being all about planned obsolescence today, Google it. Trans are not failing from abuse I've seen many hydro units that have never pulled a load or been abused in any way fail with less than 300hrs. Grass cleaned off too btw so fans never broke or clogged (causes it too). These trans are designed to fail early unlike yesterdays mowers that outlasted these 10 to 1 easy. Heck my two Wheel Horses still run & operate just like new, one is a 1976 my other a 1988. I see 40+ year old Wheel Horses all the time with 2000 hrs still doing everything just fine including hauling, tilling gardens and pushing snow you just name it and many only had maintenance, no majors to date in all their decades of use so they can build them if they choose too. I pull, till & haul all the time with my old WH tractors they both seen it all, I pulled my LX176 with my 414 WH today matter of fact because it didn't start again. We have a 2008 Husqvarna/Craftsman YT 4500 we inharated when father n law passed and all its ever mowed was a 1/2 acre flat lot, never pulled or abused. Always adult operated & maintained Husqvarna dealer. It's trans started slipping suddenly at only 230hrs once it heated up. I removed the plug on top & drained with a long small diameter hose attached to a drill pump. Very easy like that. Added 10w-40 and it stopped slipping now. It still slowed just a little after heating up so I chiseled the floor out near the pedal and linkage to allow more pressure helping oil flow through the trans when pedal pressed and its never slowed again. Much faster too. They never allowed enough pressure to them by limiting the pedal and it greatly shortens trans life as the trans oil must flow to help cool. Just like engine oil cant be restricted without failure? I know people who used the Husqvarna/Craftsmans in landscaping/mowing business's and got over 800 hrs if they chiseled floor a little so pedal moved more. About 400 hrs tops if they didnt. I think it was built like that to limit their speed so they could sell you a faster mower for more money because I know the next few models up use the same trans/wheel size but are 2-3mph faster speed. Change that fluid without a doubt but a hammer & chisel does wonders on some mowers too, check pedal clearance..