bummer, I got 350 k miles out my BMW's FP. Running an electric pump out of gas will kill 'em fast. When I'm messing around with my spare pump, I run a little MMO through it.

***"replaced needle and seat but its still happening.....even tho I have a fuel shutoff installed"*** OK, I refer to the last sentence in the post above: "even tho I have a fuel shutoff installed". In that statement, are you saying that you actually installed an inline, manually operated.........fuel shutoff valve? Or are you saying that the carburetor HAS a fuel shutoff valve already incorporated into it? If you mean that you installed an "inline fuel shutoff valve", and the crankcase continues to be filling with gasoline.............then you are either NOT shutting off the valve.............or the valve itself is defective..............or (least likely) you installed the valve between the pump and the carb, and a defective pump is leaking gas into the crankcase. Proper placement of an inline shutoff valve is somewhere between the fuel tank and the fuel filter (this placement also allows for easier replacement of fuel filter in the future). Now, if you meant that the carburetor already has a fuel shutoff valve in it.......................you have fallen into the trap of thinking the device is a "total fuel shutoff valve" along with many other people. The fuel solenoid valve (on carburetors so equipped) DOES NOT shut off all fuel. It only shuts off fuel to the MAIN JET, the pilot or idle jet can still pass a very small volume of fuel............and this small volume of fuel flow will still "drown" an engine crankcase in fuel while the machine is not running....if there is a defect in the needle and seat components. The fuel solenoid is actually called an "anti-afterfire" solenoid valve and its sole purpose is to minimize the occurrence loud backfire bang out the exhaust when shutting down the engine.

No. You need to repair this correctly.

I'm leaning towards just heat pump with heat strips. That should be fine for your area. If you plan on keeping it that warm in the house as you say in your OP, I would get the Bosch Inverter heat pump as it produces heat clear down to about 5-6 degrees ambient and very efficient at what it does. Then use the strip heat as you need it. I don't know that you'll find a contractor though for this for a new construction job as Bosch just recently came to the Houston market a few months ago. The distributor network for Bosch is in it's infancy... so there are pros and cons for choosing this brand. For what it does / how it does it --- it's a game changer for my market. (Katy, Texas area) As a comparison --- an average run of the mill single speed heat pump will probably struggle once temps drop into the 20's for any significant amount of time. They are efficient when compared to strip heat (utility bill cost wise) but there are higher limitations with those. I've gotten email notifications from my electric provider that they are estimating my next electric bill at less than $50 for November. This may wind up being my lowest electric bill ever for my power rate of 12 cents per KWH. With that said, I keep it quite chilly during the winter and my house is all electric (no gas at all). I shut it off at night and really just use it to take the chill out of the house in the morning. If it gets really cold here, I will probably just heat the main part of the house over night --- as I have it attached to a 4 zone duct system. (This is to explain the how and why my electric bill is so low -- design of the HVAC system is a big part of it.)