I have beem reading this forum for a year now, especially the craftman posts and just had to join. I own a GT 5000 and have used it for a year. Cheesy is a good word for craftman engineering. My 48" deck loads up faster than any deck I have ever used, not to mention how dang heavy the deck is to move out and clean! The bagger has such a narrow throat that even dry grass plugs it up. It has become a completely useless accessory that I never use, too much frustration. One of the most useless saftey features, is the reverse key position, you must have your key in that position to mow backwards. What's the point? And the steering linkage is so poor, my old "73" Murray tracked a straighter line. Is this craftman "bashing" Nope, this is a sad commentary on Corporate culture cheapening products, with branded names and increasing profit margins at the expense of consumers. Not all companies are following this line and that's why there is a quality spread in the market place. I'm responsible for being stupid and buying a sub-standard machine based on price, and that's the only reason these machines sell. This spring I will purchase a "quality lawn tractor". and I can't wait to dump the Crapman!!

We're installing a sheet rock patch in a wall with a stud behind it. Now if there was not a stud here, you would have to get some clips or use a small, thin board on each end. You just want to the patch up to it, that's already been pre-cut and everything. Get it to sit in there right. Screw it in nice and tight. And then we would take a- once it's all installed- take some, either the net kind, sheet rock tape, or they also make a paper kind. I prefer this because you can just stick it on- it's self-adhesive. And you take some sheet rock mud, and you're going to do this in several coats, because you don't want it too thick. So, just going to scrape it on like that. And this first coat does not have to be real smooth. Just get it real thin, and you're going to let this dry- this is probably going to take three to four hours to dry , and once it's dry, you'll be able to tell- it'll just be all white. And after that you sand it, put one more coat on it and sand it that. And then you're ready to prime it. Here is a link that might be useful: how to patch shhetrock

To the last post I would add that the new switch could also be bad, it happens. I don't see anything for it but to start testing things. You can use your multimeter to test for resistance in each device and wire to see if they are ok. Or you can risk life and limb and your family's good health by testing that you have the correct voltages when the circuit is hot. My lawyer advises me to tell you that you that electricity is dangerous and working on a live circuit can get you killed, your family would likely survive though. So do be careful and take reasonable precautions, and have someone around when you do the work, they can record your last words or call 911, whichever seems most appropriate. If you decide to risk it go to http://www.indepthinfo.com/3-way-switch/3-way-switch-explained.shtml to see what voltages to expect where and see what you get. Good luck. Here is a link that might be useful: All kinds of 3 ways

I’m replacing a ceiling fan and dimmer switch to standard switch. I removed dimmer switch and 2 wires were connect which were baby blue and red where I expected to find black and white, there was also a black wire attached to switch but was cut off about 2” and elect taped off. My question is which would be black and which would be considered white?