I agree that it calls for a qualified professional - possibly two. The requirement to bond the metal plumbing to the electrical neutral (which is also bonded to a ground electrode(s))is a NEC requirement as is the requirement to bond metal pipes between all non-conductive piping (water heater, water softener, dielectric unions, PRV's, plastic pipe sections,water meters, etc.) In some areas, the metal gas line must be bonded also. Isolated metal sections (such as a metal faucet in an otherwise non-metal plumbing system) typically don't have to be bonded. Because of the popularity of plastic plumbing, the domestic water piping system is no longer accepted as the only grounding electrode for residential electrical service. In other words, a properly bonded plumbing system that has at least 10' of metal pipe in the ground may be used as a grounding electrode, but it may not be the exclusive grounding electrode - you need a ground rod or other ground in addition to it. Metal gas lines may never be used as a grounding electrode but may be required to be electrically bonded in some jurisdictions. Electrical bonding across non-conductive plumbing fittings is typically done with ground clamps and #4 bare copper wire - but check code for the proper conductor size. If any part of the plumbing system becomes energized, the current is carried back to the neutral bus via metal bonding conductors, not via an earth ground. That's a critical point: Earth is really a poor conductor and isn't an acceptable path back to the neutral bus. I agree that in a situation where all of the plumbing is plastic, you could get shocked from energized water (say from an electric heater element). A properly grounded water heater would minimize that likelihood, but it's possible. I disagree that a properly bonded metal plumbing system would conduct electrical current through the water without bleeding that current back to the neutral first. If I were this homeowner, I would want two things: 1. The source of the electrical fault fixed. 2. A complete inspection and repair of the electrical bonding of the plumbing system, electrical service and grounding equipment (which could be the source of the electrical fault in the plumbing - think of a bonded but ungrounded plumbing system with an open neutral feeder to the breaker panel). Unless this is an all-plastic plumbing system, both things have failed.

Digging and planting trees of any size is never advised in the heat of late summer. Best done when the trees are dormant - in late fall/early winter or late winter/early spring, depending on location and severity of winter and how much your soil freezes. It is just too stressful on the trees. It is even not highly advised to plant containerized or previously dug B&B trees during this time of year. If the tree is not lifted or the soil removed and properly graded away from the trunk a good circumference away from the base so that the root flare is exposed, the tree will eventually fail and die. May not happen immediately but it will happen. If you do need to replace the tree, pick any maple you like suited to your climate (I'd avoid Norway maples simply because they are becoming an invasive species). But start out smaller - much smaller!! I would never suggest anything larger than 2.5" caliper and prefer to go even smaller. Smaller, younger trees are easier to plant or transplant, suffer much less transplant stress and establish much faster than larger, more mature specimens. If properly selected, in decent soil and with adequate watering, a smaller tree will grow quite rapidly and often equal or overtake in size a larger specimen in just a matter of a couple of growing seasons.

First I would make sure someone hasn't put a 3 to 2 prong adapter on the washer plug which would do away with the ground and perhaps turned the plug upside down which would reverse the polarity. Before they started using polarized plugs women would often get shocked when using wringer washers because they would get plugged in backwards. Polarized plugs are there for a reason and those adapters can be very dangerous.

As for the stability, obviously you do not want something made out of 1/4 inch plywood. Find a good, experienced carpenter, tell him what it will be used for (say, this is the application ...), and inform him you need it to be built to the same specifications as the floor to which it is fastened. That includes vibrations and loads. None of this is rocket science, an experienced carpenter will know what to do, including how to satisfy any local code requirements. Anything located not in your basement you will want a drain pan underneath. For extra credit (may bust the $400 budget) I'd put a rubber mat between the drain pan and the flat, (perfectly) level surface of the platform/pedestal/cabinet. Here's an example, this one will need to be cut to size. I've seen them for a few dollars less somewhere. BTW, a perfectly flat surface, and perfect leveling the machine (and checking the level every so often) is one key to minimizing any effects from the vibrations, ... rocking movements of the machine, sounds, vibrations in your home's frames, floors and walls. And to a lesser extent long term wear and tear on the machine itself.