Hello, Just joined the site & at first I thought I found a site where MOST of the members that do the MAJORITY of posting where nice,courtious, and most of all KNOWELDGEABLE, yet after reading these responses I've come to the conclusion that it's just another ROMPER ROOM with a few MAIN CHILDREN that think they know it all. Below are the postings that I'm referring to : (1) "" Posted by chad_said (My Page) on Sat, Aug 25, 07 at 10:43 Well, that was a nice bit of ego stroking, but unfortunately talk of Ford flatheads and rebuildable spark plugs has absolutely no relevance to the OP's problem. As for me being a "parts thrower", I suggested a simple visual inspection of a likely problem that takes less than one minute. No parts involved. Perhaps your reading comprehension needs work as well. "" To Child # 1--AKA chad_said: You need help. Your response was at best, the response I'd expect to hear from a rookie hot-shot, (so they think), Engine designer. Unfortunately, I deal with your kind ALL DAY LONG & after 38 Yrs. in the Design phase of Automobile building I've found that when given enough rope...You'll hang yourself. This next guy (child #2) cought my attention because he ACTUALLY BELIVES everything He's saying & I hope to GOD that He gets out of the Automotive repair Business, (if he really is even in the FIeld), and pursues a career that's commensurate to his qualifications, like Toilet Bowl Cleaning. Here is THAT Childs Post.... "" Posted by john_g (My Page) on Sun, Aug 26, 07 at 8:30 Easiest first, a Roll Cab is of course a tool box. Most technicians today have so much invested in their hand tools, that the biggest box at Sears would be terribly inadequate to protect them. If you look at the biggest box Sears sells, you would need three of them for my tool collection, and there would be items that still would not fit. My MATCO Rolling Tool Cabinet (Roll Cab) holds 85% of my things and if you think of it as a safe instead of just a tool box then you are looking at it the right way. In the case of professional theives my tools are still at risk, but if the local crack head tries to get them the most likely result will be them safely in the box, or a senario somewhat similar to a giant rat trap. Back to the OP. Information as given here is exactly enough for me to drive the car and start testing for what is wrong with it. While some things can be thought of as secondary needs, the OP's description leaves sufficient room to expect this problem is not just one thing wrong. Stalling at stops can be caused by a loss of fuel, spark, airflow, or a combination of such. The sluggishness he alludes to might be related to the stall, and yet it might not be. This single detail "could" be related to a fuel supply issue, but frankly there are some details that I would expect to see from the poster, that have not been disclosed yet. If he was here at my shop I would be asking some specific questions to attempt to get a clearer picture of these events. Things like weather conditions, accessory loads, vehicle drive time, details such as if highway driving or intown appear to influence the symptom. One such detail would be if it acts up in a specific area (time) from when first driven, or if mulitple restarts are required before the trouble occurs, or if in fact multiple restarts would make it not occur. These details are so important to getting the car in and fixed the first time that I cannot stress it enough. Presently there is a 2000 Chevrolet Blazer right beside me that got towed in, for a no start. If jumped it would run for a short period of time, and then stall back out. Simple fix right? The alternator was definately bad. However pulling it in the door I noticed it had very poor throttle response. After charging the battery, before replacing the alternator I tested just a little further, this thing is starving for fuel big time. I have to ask myself, why didn't the owner tell me about that? Does she think that the way this was running is only because of the alternator problem? Could she be one of the people I have encountered in the past that will act like this fuel problem was never there before the alternator failed, so it must be something that I caused and try to get it for free? There is no subtitute for proper training, tools, equipment, people, and information. It takes all of them to fix cars correctly. People can guess all they want, and like any guess occasionally they will be correct. A car I worked on recently came in with two seperate problems that caused identical symptoms. The first of the two problems was simple, secondary ignition insulation failure allowing the spark to jump to ground causing a missfire. The second problem was no so simple. A primary computer input was glitching and causing the computer to cut the injector pulse to 1/3rd of what was required to fire a cylinder. The "feel" was identical to an ignition missfire. To satisfy the customer, both of those problems had to be diagnosed and repaired. Otherwise "It still would have been doing the same thing". Oh and I almost forgot this LAUGHABLE description of his " ROLLCAB" Posted by john_g (My Page) on Sun, Aug 26, 07 at 12:08 FWIW my "Tool Box" measures 48ft x 40ft x 14ft. LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL WHAT Planet is THIS guy living on ? A FORTY EIGHT x FORTY x FOURTEEN (FOOT) "rollcab" ? Like I said earlier, another ROMPER ROOM and THESE two are probably in the corner more than anyone else. Good Day to all of the REAL posters out there.

You need to start with the basics here. You are either missing, or have incorrect fuel, or spark. Starting with spark, use a tool called the ST-125. Just trying to make the spark jump from a screwdriver isn't enough. The ST-125 looks like a spark plug with an alligator clip on the side. It takes 25,000 volts to jump it's gap. If an engine runs, and the ST-125 is in one of the plug wires and it is not firing, test as no-spark. The second thing you need to test is fuel. You could have fuel pressure, meanwhile the engine is not actually getting enough fuel delivered to it through the injectors, so there are several steps to take. The first is scan data, ensure sensors like the ECT, and IAT display the correct temperature as compared to ambient temperature after the car has been sitting a few hours to allow everything to cool and stabilize. You need to check fuel pressure, and you NEED TO USE A GAGE! In fact a very accurate gage. At 54 psi your truck will not start. At 55-56 psi it will. Let's see how far you get from here.

Here is an interesting column on hyprids from the Detroit News: Hybrid hype only for a few Forget what you think about hybrids for a minute and consider a few facts. They cost more than most people can -- or will -- pay; they provide fuel efficiency benefits only for specific and limited driving conditions; and the technology isn't going to solve America's oil issues. Sure, they're still somewhat trendy, and select members of Congress as well as Hollywood hypocrites regularly remind people that they drive the so-called green machines. Good for them and for the few others in America who are all hopped up on hybrids, but they are the few and the proud. And the declining. Hybrid car sales dropped 51.2 percent in December from a year ago and were down 12.7 percent for all of 2008, according to Autodata Corp. Sales of the Dodge Ram pickup alone (245,840) nearly matched demand for all hybrid cars combined (247,488) last year. Even the iconic Toyota Prius saw sales slide 12.3 percent to 158,884 vehicles last year. The fuel-efficient Chevy Cobalt (188,045) and Ford Focus (195,823) outsold the Prius. Overall, hybrids make up less than 2.5 percent of the market, a number not likely to increase significantly anytime soon. Gone, hopefully, are the days when the hybrid hype machine said the dual-powertrain vehicles would dominate the market and be standard offerings for most vehicles in every fleet. Blame consumers That's not to suggest that hybrids don't have a place in the market. They do, but it's a niche, where it belongs. Don't blame me for that. Blame consumers. There's a difference in what people say they want and what they buy. And when people put their money on the table, most high-tail it away from the $3,000 or more premium for a hybrid. A number of factors are to blame. Gas prices have dropped and consumer credit has tightened. Hybrids made sense for some at four bucks a gallon, but it will take a decade to pay off the premium when gas costs $2 a gallon. Sure prices for petrol will rise again -- and fall -- as they always do, mostly in response to actual demand, but it's doubtful hybrids will have the market-moving or the Earth-saving impact they were once proffered to have. Build what people buy Don't buy into those facts? Try this one. It makes no financial sense to put two drivetrains in one vehicle -- one for the hybrid system and one for the gas engine. Automakers can't afford to do that anymore, especially if the market continues its decline. Those resources are better placed elsewhere. Unfortunately, in the end, legislators and activists have been better at grandstanding and casting aspersions at those who don't play their game, but if the car companies are smart and follow the market's lead, they'll keep building what people buy, not what others tell them to build. Auto Editor Manny Lopez's column runs Wednesday.

to azijoon I'm a bit unclear as to your actual question/issue. The Gaggenau Speed Ovens are only 220-240 units. If you need a 110-120V unit and you want heat with a microwave, you are looking at a convection-microwave combination. Personally I like the Panasonic models the best. Then you add a built-in trim kit to match your oven and viola: you have it. It really depends on your install situation and so on. Most homes can add a circuit for a true speed oven (using 220-240V). If you cannot then an option I have used to accommodate a 120V model is a simple one: change all the incandescent cans to LED (I like the TCP brand 2,700 degree reflectors from 1000bulbs.com the best BTW). This lowers the circuit load by 85%+ (using the 120W incandescent to 17W LED comparison! Plus it doesn't buzz and is dimmable. Pretty cool stuff. What am I saying? Well, a 20 amp breaker with 19 120W cans is 80% maxed at 2280 watts. Changing these to LEDs would use 323 watts, a savings of 1,957 watts. The top end Panasonic Convection uses a maximum 1,472 watts, which leaves a wide margin of success for adding to an existing circuit. For a little primer on the math here's an excellent description: http://www.milestoneelectricdfw.com/resources/faq-tripping-breaker Any who.... My Gaggenau BM455110 Speed Oven is not yet installed - as I live in the US and these models are not imported directly here for reasons I cannot discern other than low volumes and sales expectations. FWIW: I got the left hinge bottom controls to fit over a US sourced 24" self clean Gaggenau BI oven and warming drawer. I went through fesal.com from Italy to purchase my unit, and expect to have the cabinetry done sometime in the spring of 2016 for it's final installation (they are absolutely gorgeous BTW). Yes I know I forfeit the main warranty and so on and it is not UL approved, but it does operate on either 50 or 60 cycles and 220-240 volts according to the factory specifications - and that is about all I need to know. EU standards are definitely on par or possibly superior to UL, and the false notion that homeowners insurance would be invalidated is thoroughly incorrect on many levels. The Euro pricing was as low as I have seen from any country that I tried to export from (Australia, UK, Germany, Italy). More info? Just ask. I'll do my best to respond. Thanks