Yes, the poor cut issue of some of the AYP machines has come up before. Mine has a 46" 3 blade deck, and it's by far the worst deck design I've ever seen. Too many contours and obstructions underneath to allow the grass to discharge effectively. The clippings bouncing around underneath the deck rapidly begin to build up unless the grass is dry enough to crumble between your fingers. Even if the grass IS that dry, the clippings bouncing off of all of the obstructions STILL affects the airflow underneath to the point that the deck leaving the strips results. Several forum members have offered up helpful advice when owners post problems like this, but sharpening the blades, leveling the deck, mowing with the throttle pinned wide open, etc. etc. have yet to answer why a different rider with a better deck design can mow the same grass....with dull blades....at half throttle....and at a higher ground speed. I've personally compared two other tractors to mine on my lawn. And I've done so immediately after sharpening the blades, leveling the deck, making sure the belts were properly tensioned, etc. on my machine. The machines I compared mine with, hadn't seen a lick of maintenance or fiddling of any kind. Both were cheaper tractors too. I like the tractor itself, but the deck is junk. Use the search function, and enter phrases like "Husqvarna poor cut". Here's one of the past threads: Here is a link that might be useful: Poor quality of cut

Well didn't read all you post but as far as the single wire goes, yes, it should be DC current for charging the battery. The charging wire on SOME riding mowers and law tractors goes back thru the positive wire of the switch. Yours only has a kill wire to the switch, a ground wire. Walt Conner

Hmmm! You guys have some good points. I never thunk about that 2 cord weight. But then I don't know a Commanche P/U from an anchor chain. I found the following in Mark's Mechanical Engineers Handbook, 1952, (1 $/pound new). A cord =(128 ft³ cut & stacked) = 90ft³ solid wood. White Pine, Green, 3240lbs, 12% moisture, 2250 lbs Red Oak, Green, 5760lbs, 12% moisture, 3960 lbs so 2 cords could weigh up to 11,520 lbs. Wow! Assuming a P/U bed 6' X 8' the load would be 5.3 ft high loaded even along its length which would make it too heavy on the drivers so you'd have to pile it higher toward the front..... Wow Again! =========================================================================== I hauled dry cedar logs never over a ton net which gave me a GVW of about 4500 lbs. Legal! I checked weighed it once to calibrate my eyeballs for loading in the woods. I also divided the gross weight by 4 (=1125 lbs) and my tires were rated for 1500 lbs so the cops wouldn't gitme for an overload. The beefed up springs proved to be extremely stable. The logs were tied down 2 places with truckers rope and since I are a trucker I know how to do a secure tie down. The brakes were more than adequate for this GVW because I tested em out with a simulated panic stop to make sure. At the time I was given to understand that the Datsoon rear axle bearings were sized for way more than the load I put on em. Don't remember anymore how that was determined but it was considered. I did this in the California mountains with no trouble aytall. I geared down going downhill thereby keeping my brakes cool. etc etc. Did I do it right? Altho many big trucks use airbag suspensions I don't believe air shocks would be reliable for this application unless they were mounted directly between the axle and the frame. Most are mounted to welded-on struts which can bust off. They can leak or spring a leak. They have no lateral stability. Coil springs have no lateral stability. Leaf springs are better. Thick stiff ones are best.

We deal with dehumidification in tighly constructed homes in this manner..(note that my location is Louisiana) We blower door test home to determine if fresh air is necessary. In many cases it is not, it takes an effort to build to the standard that requires fresh air intake. La. mandates .35 air changes per hour (achN)Fla. mandates .25 achN..as a rule of thumb I add fresh air @ .3 achN. There have been a lot of misconceptions with erv's in my area, and cost and install are equal factors. A few years ago we started using this approach. 12'x12' filter back grill installed (depending on house) under rear porch, soffit..easily acessable area as you will be changing a filter @ this location. 4" duct from filter back grill to return side of hvac system. Barometric damper installed in 4" duct. In this install we are introducing fresh air, filtering it before it enters the return & controlling the air flow with the barometric damper. Once air enters the return it is clean, measured & dehumidified before entering the house. I found a site..years ago..www.skuttle.com/216html..don't know if it still works, but this is were I first learned about barometric dampers. The damper will adjust to the amount of air being drawn out of the house via bath fans, stove fan etc. If all fans are running the barometric damper will be opened more, and as each fan is turned off the damper will close a bit more. The idea is to keep a slight positive pressure on the home rather than a negative pressure. You don't have to add a great amount of fresh air..something like 10 cfm (cubic feet per minute) per person & combustable appliance (including fireplace inserts). Oh cost for install is about $500. materials included. Great performance in my area. For additional dehumdidfication...stand alone dehumidifiers in the conditioned space. We try to catch this in the planning stages to have permanant drains rather than having to empty the dehumidifier on a regular basis. One dehumidifier will cover about 2000 sq ft.cost is less than $200 @ HD & lowes. I would first determine if the RH was high enough to need the additional dehumidification. Radio Shack sells a Relative Humidity device that measures RH in your home for about 30 bucks. In my area 50% RH is the goal. Hope some of this helps you out in your situation. (oh and ok guys....y'all's input???)