The boiling point is raised by increasing the pressure of the liquid. I do not have pressure tables for ethelyene glycol-water mix, so I will use that for water to illustrate the change in boiling point with pressure. The following table was extracted from the Handbook of Chemistry. WATER Deg F Pressure, psia (absolute pressure) 212 14.696 213.8 15.228 215.6 15.776 . . 221.0 17.521 . 249.8 29.717 Water boils at 212 F at one standard atmosphere of pressure. or about 14.7 psi. If a pressure cap of a radiator adds 15 psi (or 29.7 psia), then the boiling point is raised to about 250 F. In other words, a radiator with a 15 psi cap will not boil until the water temperature raises to 250F. At 250 F, that system is dangerous. If the cap is suddently removed, most of the liquid will flash to steam and gush out of the opening scalding anything it touches. A closed, non-leaking automotive coolant system filled with water with a 15 psi cap will not boil until it gets to 250 F. A leaky system can boil as low as 212 F. However, the coolant does expand while it is heating. Here's what supposed to happen. As the coolant expands, it squirts by the pressure regulator in the radiator cap and goes to the overflow bottle. The cap should have an second seal under the very top of the cap. This gasket is supposed to seal the overflow tube from the atmosphere. When the engine cools down, liquid from the bottom of the overflow bottle is sucked back into the radiator, that is, if the radiator cap's outer seal is working. If the overflow bottle is not completely emptied, then no air gets back into the coolant system. This is critical. It is the admission of oxygen into the coolant system that causes most of the corrosion and crud. After a few heating and cooling cycles, most of the air in the coolant system should be flushed out and no more will get in until the system is opened again, for example, opening the radiator cap or allowing the overflow bottle to go dry. This system fails when there is a leak somewhere from the radiator cap to the overflow bottle. One typical cause is a wrong radiator cap. A cap from an older system without an oveflow bottle may fit but it does not have the second seal under the cap. It has only the pressure regulator. A second cause is a proper cap with a second seal that no longer works. Another cause that I have seen is a leak in the hose that goes from the radiator to the overflow bottle. I had a hose that had a slit in its underside that could not be seen from above. From what you have written, your fan may not be turning on soon enough. For example, the original equipment temperature sensor for '97 Saturns was notorious for failing after about 3 years and not turning on the fan. After replacing one twice in our Saturn, I found an after market sensor with a metal sensor nose that lasted for years. The original equipment sensor had a plastic nose that eventually dissolved in the hot coolant. The head cracked on this engine at 130,000 miles probably due to over-aging of its aluminum alloy head.

Static pressure is the difference between the negative pressure (from your returns) and positive pressure ( at your supplies). This is an indication of the air-flow over the coils. These will differ as your air filter plugs up, the "tightness" of your air filter, the duct sizing. On a retrofit I'd suggest it's OK, but there should be, on your rating plate, a spec for EST. If it's within range, you're laughing. If it isn't I'd 1st consider more return air as that's the most common fault, but I'd also look at the supplies. Are they restricted (i.e. under furniture or behind?). Are the vent dampers wide open? If you've got the gauges, try removing the filter first. If that brings it into line, you can switch the fan into the next highest speed, replace the filter and rock on.

Actually, there are areas inside of PA where coded boilers are required in all situations. Also, outside the state. This has become a problem for one of the local hard coal-fired boilermakers who wants to sell outside of PA and the noose is tightening. They aren't H stamped. Even though these boilers are built to ASME standards, they lack the H stamp. The stamp costs about $2000 for a single unit, which makes them more competitive by not having to pay for it. We decided years ago to stamp every boiler, which substantially reduces the individual cost of a stamp. It wouldn't matter if you installed a brand new non-coded boiler in a commercial application on Oct. 1st in PA. If L&I came to inspect on Oct. 2, the boiler would have to replaced.

Go to www.alpinehomeair.com and you'll find it all. But, it is a multi-speed furnace and they have it set on T5 which is @ 2,000 CFM @ 0.5"IWC. Someone else mentioned about changing condensing unit, coil, motor, etc. to be like a 4 ton system. But you have got to be kidding me, and even if it did, why? Would the manufacturer warranty this arrangement if you had problems? I just don't understand why this manufacturer and looks like most others that are designed to operate @ 2,000 CFM have no room there period. I am going to take static pressure readings and let you know later. I forced these guys to add at least one 12" return because we were short with the 4 ton unit and they were going to just cut a hole in the wall where one return already existed and they thought it would be good enough. But, now this individual return is mounted in the ceiling and is just a humming as I know this motor is ramping up like you say as the CFM is @ 750 and so is the FPM of @ 750 FPM. So, like some others have said and your saying that apparently you cannot order a standard 120K btu furnace and 5 ton condensing unit and matching 5 ton coil and operate within the specs of 0.5" IWC and (in this case 14 SEER rating) without manipulating various components in the system to try and come close or meet the efficiency that the manufacturer originally said it is capable of performing, right? If this is true, then manufacturers are not telling the truth of what a true full sized 5 ton residential system will operate in the real world and HVAC companies are covering this problem up and seems to me that there is something wrong with this picture. I had a 4 ton system that I later found out was undersized in return of at least one 10" or 12" return and I now know it would have helped considerably, but I still feel it was undersized, but again what I feel and what the professionals know and might could have done to make it work is another matter. The problem is my wife and I want 72 degrees year around inside whether it hits 115 degrees outside or -15 degrees and if it causes the system to be oversized for those conditions and makes it less efficient, that is our choice there also. Then it becomes a matter of how much oversized is too much or not enough yet, right? Just like in the opposite direction of when you perform Manual J it goes down to a 4 ton unit if your conditions are such it says 4.5 tons needed. But, what is that based on 2 days out of the year, a week, a month, you know?