The only information that I've got is for the 1992, 2.3 L engine in the Ford Topaz. (It's probably the same basic layout as for the pickup truck.) So, with this warning, here's the information for the car engine. There should be two timing marks: one on the crank grear and one on the cam gear. These are punch or drill point marks. Both gears are keyed to their shafts. There is an inside and outside face for the gears. The timing marks face to the outside. The chain will have to be placed on the gears before sliding the gears onto the shafts. This may not be easy since one or both of these gears may be press fits. If you encounter a press fit, just take it easy and press each part a little at time while keeping the chain aligned. The object is to avoid damage to the chain. The keyway on the cam shaft points toward the crank. The key on the crank points straight up (and not toward the cam shaft). After the chain and sprockets are in place, the timing marks (on the sprockets) should point toward each other and be in-line with the center-line of the cam shaft and crank. (The crank key will not be on this line.) Slowly rotate the engine by hand to check for interference with a valve. If all seems ok, then check the rotor position in the distributor. It should be ok since it was not removed, but here's the check anyway. With piston no.1 at top-dead-center (TDC) and on the compression stroke (both intake and exahust valves closed), the rotor in the distriburor should point toward the electrode (in the cap) for No. 1 sparkplug. Hopefully, none of the pistons hit a valve when the chain broke. While the timing chain cover is off, it might be a good idea to flush out the oil pan to remove any debris therein, like broken chain parts. Tiny pieces probably won't cause a problem so long as these are too large to pass by the oil pump intake screen. However, larger pieces may get bounced about and caught between close passing moving parts. You can use used engine oil as a flush fluid, or a mild cleaner such as kerosene.

Dnt1, thanks! Also, to clear up - the sound is more like a blast sound from a train not the swoosh sound of one going by if that makes sense. And, I've noticed it does it when I'm low on gasoline. Could you explain in layman's terms basically what the rear end carrier bearings are?

The special tool is a puller for the pump pulley, and then the re-installer. The bolts that hold the pump to the bracket are behind the pulley, and the bracket also only has an opening sufficient for the pump shaft to stick through, so no matter what, the pulley has to come off in the car, and then be pressed back on in the car. Yes you can buy the tool, for a cheap version, you'll be spending about $50. For one that will last over many uses, figure about $200. As far as your local small shops not already owning this tool, that directly comes from the very likely possibility that they are underpriced, and therefore have to control expenses to the point that they cannot purchase tools like this. I can only imagine what else they SHOULD be buying in scan tools, DSO's DVOM's, information sources, and above all training. But they have themselves caught in a downward spiral. Seriously, expect them to go out of business fairly soon, and at the same time you can almost be assured that no one will be there to replace them. The reason for that is for someone to be able to get another shop going, they would have to price correctly. Which means not like the two you presently have. Then they will have to struggle through all of the endless times that they will hear "but Henry down the street will do that for half that price". Yea, your in for a rough ride when it comes to keeping your vehicles running.

I have had a 2WD 1997 Toyota Tacoma for 7 years now. It is pretty basic with the only options being a/c, a bed liner, and a cd player. It has been a great little truck with now 150,000 miles and I have had very little trouble over the years.