It is easier than you think. There are two tabs on the switch that need to be pushed in to release the switch. Push in the hardest to get at one first and wiggle that part of the switch out of the panel. Use a screwdriver if necessary as they fit tight. Next, do the other tab and pull through the panel. Transfer the harness to the new switch and snap the switch back in. Good luck.

Read and re-read this carefully. It might seem complex to the novice but it is really a straight forward and in depth explanation of what goes on, and what you will be looking at. Remove the spark plug from each cylinder. You will adjust BOTH valves on "the same cylinder", ONLY AFTER THAT CYLINDER has been positioned to the proper point in the 4-stroke cycle. Remove the valve cover from both cylinders. Identify each valve as INTAKE valve or EXHAUST valve by doing a visual reference. The INTAKE valve will be physically closest to where the intak manifold connects to the head and the EXHAUST valve will be nearest to where the exhaust manifold connects to the head. Next you need to determine which direction the engine rotates when running. You can determine this by spinning the engine with the starter while watching the flywheel through the fan shroud. Mark the direction with an arrow (at least on a sketch if not on the engine). Once you have determined the direction of rotation, you can proceed to positioning the engine for valve adjustment. You should trun the engine by hand a few complete revolutions to familiarize yourself with the sequence of valve movements through the entire 4 stroke cycle. It requires two complete revolutions of the crankshaft (720 degrees of crankshaft rotation) to one complete "4 stroke cycle". The 4 strokes of a four cycle engine are (and in this sequence): (1) INTAKE STROKE (2) COMPRESSION STROKE (3) POWER STROKE (4) EXHAUST STROKE. The compression stroke is the stroke where you perform the valve adjustments. Before we try to figure out how to identify the compression stroke for a specific cylinder let's describe the movements of the valves and the terms used: When a pushrod is RISING and lifting a rocker arm, the rocker arm will be pushing a valve DOWN. When a valve is DOWN, it is OPEN. When a valve is UP, it is CLOSED. OK, turn the engine by hand in the correct direction of rotation while watching both valves of the cylinder you are going to adjust the valves on. When you get to a point in the turning where the INTAKE VALVE begins to rise up (closing) and the exhaust valve is already UP (closed), you are in the beginning of the COMPRESSION STROKE. At this time you need to insert a wooden pencil or a wooden dowel rod straight into the spark plug hole until it contacts the piston. Hold the dowel firmly against the piston with one hand and resume turning the engine with the other hand. Observe how the piston pushes the dowel out of the plug hole as the piston moves toward the magical point known as Top Dead Center (TDC). At the point where the dowel movement stops, mark the dowel flush with the edge of the plug hole. Now, measure upward 1/4 inch from that mark and put a second mark. Put the dowel back in the hole, firmly against the piston and slowly resume turning the engine (in the direction of rotatation) and you will see the dowel move into the hole as the piston drops. Continue turning the engine until the second mark on the dowel is flush with the edge of the spark plug hole. This cylinder is now in the correct position for adjusting the valves ON THIS CYLINDER ONLY. After adjusting the valves on this cylinder, you will need to repeat the entire procedure to get the opposite cylinder into position to adjust its valves.

Thanks for the recommendation. Thought I might have provided too much information but the issue was getting the best of me. Here is what I did since last post: disassemble and check entire wiring harness. Wiring integrity appeared intact. Now a new challenge: rebuilding and reattaching the harnesses. located the VR/rectifier, which is accessible without removing shroud. remove the VR/rectifier, which had two White wires coming from stator to VR/rectifier with Purple wire going out to battery by way of accessory at ignition. Start tractor without VR/rectifier connected, and engine ran fine. Red (Bat) and Purple (Acc) wires no longer getting excessively hot and tripping breaker. While engine running at full throttle, I tested AC voltage output coming directly from stators White wires, and it showed 42v, which confirms that stators working properly, I guess this means I need a new VR/rectifier and tractor will be running normal again. It has always been the purple wire shorting out in all my tests. Purple comes from Accessory at ignition and is the B+ connection at the VR. Initial problem was that engine died leaving both Red and Purple wires extremely hot, presumably causing 30a breaker to trip. Perhaps the VR was internally shorting thus causing excessive output amperage to return back through the hot wire (purple) causing excessive heat and ultimately shorting out system?? If it were a failed diode causing the problem then presumably I would not have AC voltage from the stators?? I don't know the answer. Interestingly, running the engine without the VR yields sporadic and almost unintelligible voltage across the battery terminals. Would have thought the battery would read 12+ volts, declining as the engine ran?? Maybe someone can explain if my diagnosis makes sense and how the VR is causing the problem. Thanks again.

I carry a short jumper wire on the mower. When I want to override the seat switch i just raise the seat, unplug the wire and insert the jumper into the terminals on the wire. Works for me. I only do this when I am using the washout port on the deck. You might need to add alligator clips to the jumper if the machine will be moving.