Ahh I see. I did not know that one bud could be inserted into rootstock as opposed to an entire "cutting". Interesting. Harvestman. Yes the tree is semi dwarf from L E Cooke and is about 4' tall. I know of a small nursery that orders them bare root and then pots whatever they dont sell for the season. I bought this red baron about 3 weeks to a month ago. There are many small nurseries around here and in Korea Town and in somewhat hidden large lots behind houses and such. In Westminster where I live and grew up it used to be a patchwork of huge fields. Then one by one they disappeared. But now there are many "backyard" fields so to speak. From the front they look like houses or business but from behind they are open. They are all reputable places that have been here for many generations and some are bigger than others. But anyways, this place has ALOT of different fruit trees at different stages of growth. This red baron peach had been planted from bare root into a #5 pot about 1-2 months prior to me buying it. For some reason this nursery plants all their bare roots in dirt WAY ABOVE the bud union. So when I took it out of the pot I realized it was planted way to deep but as I went to put it in the ground I realized It had no room to put the "caliper" above ground at 2". It was not in the pot for long and the dirt was very loose... So the now the dirt from the hole in the ground is right at the bottom of the "caliper" or "bud union". I dont see a problem with it but I wanted your guys advice :-)

On most occasions pulling to one side or the other after brake work is caused from air in the lines. Thats usually caused by incorrect brake bleeding or lack of it. In your case if it is not a continual thing, I don't believe its air in the lines. It sounds like your sticky piston caliper is still sticking on occassion. What side did they work on and what side is it pulling to??? Ray

Very well said,JIM. Replace it. Lubing is a waste of time. the interior plastic sheath is broken down and allowing water and rust to build up. That vehical very likely has rear disk brakes and could also have seized calipers. It boils down to " use it or loose it ".

Our Steelers didn't look too good in the second half of sunday's game. Hopefully they have brought back a few lessons that will be very necessary if they get to meet the Pats again this year in the playoffs. The Pat's look almost unbeatable. Now brakes. There are so many things that need to be examined here. Driving habits are important to the diagnosis. Heavy intown use, lot's of stop and go with little time for the brakes to cool off can lead to boiling of the fluid. This happens easier as the brake fluid absorbs water right out of the air overtime. Being a 2006 that would not be something I would expect to see, but that could be part of the puzzle. Question. When the problem happens, is one brake rotoir hotter than the other in the front? Are the front brakes both significantly hotter than the rear? I would use an infrared thermometer and actually measure brake temperatures during both a normal use situation, and then compare them to what is happening during a failure event. Could the pads show signs of whats happening? Not really. No more than what your description of the failure does. We need to seperate whether there is some type of hydraulic problem allowing air into the system, (very rare BTW without a visible leak) or if the brakes are dragging because of a mechanical problem on the car, or if they are dragging because of operator habits. Just like any other "investigator" all of these are possible until they are confidently ruled out. What other details can you tell us about the failure? This will be practice to assist the dealership in their re-creating the failure for testing. If you drove a certain distance today, how far would you have to go in order for the failure to most likely present itself? Does where you drive the car seem to have anything to do with the problem? In town, local highway, interstate? In driving in one of the previous situations, is the failure "Unlikely" to occur? (This is critical for the technician to get to experience the failure for diagnostics) Most of all DONT GUESS, whats wrong such as the way your post title starts, "brake calipers". If you go in telling them the calipers are bad, and they find a problem with them, they would replace them. But that could easily have nothing at all to do with the brake pedal problem! Stick to the symptom, what it feels like, when it occurs, and if there is something that you can think of that is likely to either get the symptom to show up, or not show up at all.