I think I missed something.... Sorry, I am not playing games with you. Actually, I'm not even sure what part of that led you to believe that. I promise that the condition I'm describing is as close to accurate as I can figure out how to explain. It seems like you're pretty alarmed by this. Is that because this is unusual? I just replaced the blown 40 amp fuse with a fresh 40 and everything seems to be okay again. I feel a bit nervous about your last post. What made you think that I might not be telling the truth?

The other important (related) questions that will greatly affect cost are where is the panel and does it have to look pretty when you are done? If the panel is in a basement it will probably be cheaper than if it is currently in a clothing closet. In fact, it sounds like there is no basement, at all, since you wrote that all the cables come from above. What is probably going to have to happen is that the old circuits will probably have to be intercepted in the attic and spliced in one or more large junction boxes to route new cable to a new service panel. That panel can be indoors or outdoors next to the service entrance (meter). If the meter is not close to the new panel location, a small main panel will have to be installed near the meter. Existing cables to outlets and lights can stay pretty much as they are, or new cable pulled to include ground conductors. New circuits can be added as well. As ronnatalie pointed out, it will be an important decision whether to go to a higher larger service enabling you to bring in more power. That entails a new meter with a new meter pan, and new "stuff" to get the power to the meter. Tell me, why do you want a new panel?

dump this guy . .and ask all of your friends for a reference ( a highly valued source of my clients ) . . .go through the chain , ask your plumber if he knows an honest Sparky . .etc etc I have a 5 ton truck..it has an high 5 digit inventory I upkeep so that I can complete what you NEEDED accomplished first time there . .without driving about looking for what I need . . .fuel is 4 bucks a gallon yes I get a trip charge based on miles to your location,..it is an seriuosly expensive business to be in and I simply MUST cover each and every cost...period! when I get there I am concerned FIRST with accomplishing what YOU called me for . .when that is accomplished to my satisfaction and yours . . .I certainly would offer your electrical main components a once over then or anytime you like ( my pleasure to do so..but there will be a trip charge). .and my first recommendations will always be anything directly related to ANY safety problems I find . .and give you my recommendations perhaps some companies have so many customers . .their concerns are no longer important personally I need my customers a hell of a lot more than they need me . .there are other good electricians out there Friend..if you do NOT at the moment..believe you have an safety situation . .KEEP LOOKING FOR A HONEST MAN we are out there . .and you'll find one in your area . .just keep looking

Which is why they aren't used in garages or unfinished basements, correct? The arcs in the electric motors cause the AFCI to trip. What about things like vacuum cleaners or other household devices with motors? Because I'm just replacing the panels, I shouldn't have to protect the existing circuits with AFCI, but if I rewire the bedrooms with two new 20A circuits, then I will need AFCI protection on those new circuits, correct? A random question: Why, when I watch television shows such as Holmes on Homes and others (filmed in Canada), do I see most of their load centers horizontal rather than vertical? Is their any benefit to doing that? What I'm working with now: 1st Floor: 2nd Floor: 3rd Floor: I found out last week (after pulling off the front cover) that the 2nd floor has a couple of double-tapped circuits including two 15A "house" circuits which were double-tapped to a single 30A minibreaker fuse! Also, when they installed the boiler, they double-tapped the laundry circuit to get power. I ordered two 301P fuse blocks and my electrical will be installing them next week. The third floor was just as bad with double-taps. The boiler, like the 2nd floor, was double tapped into the laundry circuit. Also, the garage was on the 3rd floor panel for some reason (I think the previous owner lived on the 3rd floor). It's funny how none of this stuff gets disclosed when buying a house, and my house inspection report didn't list any issues regarding electrical. It's like finding the pieces to a puzzle and figuring out how they match up... That was the case when I had a hunch there was a fire on the 3rd floor. There was all new (Romex) wiring in the kitchen, cathedral ceilings with six Velux skylights circa-1986 (which the identical house next door doesn't have), the back wall of the kitchen is missing the original 40's tile, vinyl siding on the 3rd floor that didn't quite match perfectly when its sunny outside, and that weird 12-3 wire that runs up the exterior of the house to behind the kitchen counter... Of course, when I went to the building inspector last year, the one permit on file for my house was taken out in 1986 for a house fire that started in the kitchen. None of it was disclosed however... I had to go searching for it. Had I known then, it might've influenced my decision to buy the house. (Of course, now, I love my house and actually am thankful for the fire because I now have all new wiring and cathedral ceilings with skylights, and a second legal bedroom on the 3rd floor which they created from unfinished attic space by installing two skylights and finishing the room.)