There are not many owners with the GSV190 yet. As far as I know, it is now only available on the Toro commercial version of the LB 22271. I also have a 22271, and while it may take several pulls after sitting for a week, it does not have the slow starting of yours. I also use a stabilizer and synthetic oil. The slow start problem is easy to explain but hard to fix, since I don't know what causes it. The problem is lack of sufficient enrichment to start. Maybe there's an adjustment on the linkage so the choke closes more. What the engine needs is a primer bulb. One thing you must be certain of with this mower and all 'Insight'-type mowers is that the mulch plug or bag frame is properly situated in the cleats on top of the bag chute box, because there is a magnetic kill switch in the RH cleat that prevents ignition if the attachment is not properly seated. Also you have to keep the area clean so debris does not prevent proper seating.

I would pull the plugs and read them. spray some carb. cleaner down the spark plug holes and motor the engine over (motoring the engine would be with the spark plugs removed turn the key and let the motor free spin blowing out the carb. cleaner and anything else) If the plug were good I would clean and regap them before I installed them. If one was black sotie and you have no ignition problems as suggested above I would do compression check. If you have at least 100 psi in each cylinder I would suspect dirty carb. and fuel system. If the compression was low in one or both cylinders say 60 psi or lower then you would have to get pass that problem before continueing of course.? I would then do a fuel system clean up if the compression is A OK!. (probably needs it anyway and it don't cost you nothing but time). Fuel system clean of consists of replacing the fuel filter, inspecting and blowing out the fuel hoses (all of them including all the way to the tank), remove the gas tank clean it out with bottle brush type brush by scrubbing the bottom and sides or using a pressure washer and rinse with fresh gas, last would be removing the carb., disassemble and cleaning of all the small passages. When you inspect the fuel lines any weather cracks or dry rot I would replace them. I replace them anyway while I have it torn apart cause you really can tell the condition internally of old 10 year old fuel hoses? I have found if I do my part my vanguard will almost out live me! time will tell, I'm 58 and the vanguard is 21!?!

I am glad I stumbled across this thread! (thanks jnjmom for the orig. post!) I think many posters are right. Some posters just listed their personal preferences/taste as classic and their peeves and trendy and dated, but I still thought that overall, the cross sampling of opinion helped me get some perspective. I assumed that many posters are framing the conversation with respect to standard single family houses, while in NC at least, townhomes are cropping up like weeds. (many of which I'm convinced were thrown up in a hurry during the housing boom and were cheaply and 'trendily' made.) What are there time-stamped building trends in townhouses that you would avoid? (I assume many that apply to houses also apply to townhomes.) One potential 'time stamp' that jumped out at me when looking through the listings were arched entry ways and arched cutouts  all in townhouses built in the early 2000s. In a townhouse especially, they strike me as 'time stamped'. I used to live in an old 1950s home with a gorgeous arched front door, but had no other arches entryways, and I would never call it trendy. However, I've been avoiding those "obviously arched" entryways and cutouts in my search because regardless what I think of them personally, I think a square entry to another room or hall is- well, standard, and I have to consider eventual resell. Some of the comments mentioned the unnecessary interior molding. I think it is so true! I've seen it in so many 'luxury apartments' but I didn't think of it, so thanks. Some townhouses do have two story and vaulted rooms, and while I personally donÂt mind them, I do consider the future energy costs associated with heating and cooling them down the road when I want to sell. If you have any other townhouse Âtime stamps (with regard to design not personal décor) please post! Thanks

Thanks for sharing the This Old House method of lining a cast pipe. I had my pipe inspected with a camera yesterday. We found a deteriorated break (bottom left side) vs a snap break just before the pipe makes a downward brand. I feel the downward bend is due to my raised front entry that you step down 5” to a Hallway or Den. I feel my cutters have been hanging up at the start of the bend due to seeing bent metal vs snapped cast. I hope the liner will work and be the most economical. Helpfully this will be the only damage since 15’ of pipe was replaced before this point and it all showed to be still good since 03.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Another down side is I was not cleaning to my 4” line in this 2” line compared to the camera’s measurements. My 50’ cable was coming up 15’ short compared to the camera. The entry, trap, cable cage and a 45 degree across the 10’ kitchen area accounts for maybe 6’+ differences vs 15’???? It appears and sounds to be draining fine but I can see and know there is a problem at this point and grease and Etc 15’ to the 4” line (in the 50’ wide house). This would have been detected in 03 if I had let the Tech pressure clean the line to the 4” line (for an additional 100.00) vs me thinking I was cleaning enough. I will try to share a PrintScreen shot taken with my camera from my screen LOL to show the damage. I have had trouble capturing Pics from the video the Tech gave me. Has anyone in the <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />Dallas/Fort Worth area had a 2” cast pipe repair using the epoxy sleeve method and by what company?? PS. I hate to think my wife is trying to get me to move from our 1973 purchased home, enlarged/enhanced in 1977. I’m ready if we can match the comfort of this 70’ X 120’ lot Holding my 2 trailers and Stuff.