Success!!!!! Rustyj14, I was all set to get on line here and post no way to getting that bolt up high enough. I did not think it could be done but was able to get it up enough to pull the starter out enough to get the gear on. Thanks for telling me not to take that fly wheel off. Mownie, I ended up using a socket, 10MM which fit perfectly over the top of that part to get that little C piece to snap into place. Put the socket over it and gave it a few taps and it fell right into place. Started right up. Now the next issue, ran it for a while and got a cut in but by the time I was done it was starting to miss and chugging along. I do have an oil leak somewhere that I have to find and I am also going to change both belts. Bought a Carb repair kit also. Where would you check first for an oil leak? Also put the new plugs in but did not replace the spark plug covers. Was going to clean them out with Brake cleaner. Any thoughts appreciated. Mike

tom thanks, one is on the way, although I'm still interested in thoughts on what could cause this. Once I've got the new one, I can bench the old one anyway and see if I can figure anything out. I'm also trying to compare these transmissions for durability and torque to the Peerless 205-024x and the Spicer 093264. These are hyrdrostatics with pedal shift, i.e. push pedal forward to go forward and backward to go in reverse. I might like to convert this tractor, maybe by buying a parts machine, but I do haul a york rake with it regularly so I'm pulling harder than I do with just mowing using these hydrostatics and if they aren't up to it, then wouldn't be worth the time. If they are, esp. the 205-024x which is from a similarly heavy 46" wide body Murray 2 cylinder, then I really prefer the pedal shifting option. Thanks, Brian

They might look fine in NC.I dont know how hot it gets there,Im sure it gets hot,cause some of NC.is a zone warmer than here.The problem with our summers(use to be) is it gets so hot and humid,you can walk outside and just stand in the shade for 30 minutes and you will be soaking wet.You would look like you jumped in a swimming pool with all your cloths on.Iv'e noticed the last few years it hasent been like that,we have had cooler summers.I remember 10yrs ago when I framed houses for a living,the summer temps.was *95 every day from june through early to mid sept.Night time lows would be *80 to *85.I could walk out on my pourch at 10:00pm and it was so hot and humid, it was nasty.I dont know if its because were in a laninya wheather pattern or what.Now in mid summer we might hit *90 a couple times,but at night it will get down to *65 to *70.People I work with that moved here from up north in the last few years all say I thought this is suppost to be hot Atlanta.I tell them about how summers use to be,and they dont act like they believe me.There use to be lighting bugs everywhere at night,now you only see a few here and there.I tell them I know those hot humid days and nights will come back,just wait.We use to go to Daytonna Beach on vacation on the 4 of july,we would stay for a week or so.One year when we got back,this is no lie,all the tall candels in the house were bent over.That's how hot it got inside the house.It had been hotter here than in Daytonna Beach.No lie!!!

The nearest manual I have for your car is for 1988 thru 1993 full sized Chryslers. (I have driven my share of old used vehicles, too.) I was scratching my head trying to think of what could have happened to cause the event you described. At first, I thought maybe a return spring broke or came off, but then that would not repair itself and be "normal" again as you described. There are two spring loads that tend to return the accelerator pedal. These are the return spring and a small bias spring in the throttle position sensor. I do not think it was either of these. Do you have cruise control? This gadget can do exactly what you described. Its control is a set of switches in the steering wheel and can be accidentally bumped. Lets say that you accidentally activated it (turned it on) and now it is armed to take control of pulling the throttle. Hitting the resume button or accelerate button sends it into action pulling on the throttle. Depending on what the speed setting was, it will continue to open the throttle until that speed is attained and then throttle back to maintain speed. Sometimes, the system overshoots the mark. The sensation you get is a sinking pedal when the control takes over. Next comes the interesting part. Activating the brake switch temporarily releases the cruise control, so when you stepped on the brake and pushed it far enough to operate the brake switch, the cruise control let go and returned the accelerator pedal operation back to you. The system will behave normally, but if you did not turn off the cruise control, it was still armed and ready to do the same thing again. I do not know all the details of your particular model; The cruise control may or may not disarm when the ignition switch is turned off. There should be a light on the instrument panel that turns on when the cruise control is armed. It may be a green lighted word, "cruise". On a car of that age, I believe the instrument panel is lighted with incandescent bulbs. These do burn out and the cruise lamp could have been missing. If you notice that a lamp or 2 is out on the dash, re-lamp the entire dash. For instrument panels lighted with light bulbs, it a good idea to re-lamp every 5 years. Whatever the case, its best you have a qualified mechanic look into that misbehaving throttle. Let us know what you find. Do you have cruise control? Now, about your other problem. We need to know more. Was it a vibration from the wheels or was it the engine cutting out, misfiring, and generally misbehaving? If its wheel vibration that appears as speed is increased, that can be caused by several things such as wheel balance weights getting knocked off. If you have drum brakes on the rear, these should have a small balance weight tack welded on the outer surface of the drum. Sometimes, these get knocked off during service work and go un-noticed. No amount of wheel balancing wil cure the problem until the drums are rebalanced. If the braking surface (of the drums) are 1/2 worn down, it makes economic sense to replace the drums rather than to try to find a balancing service. But first, you need to determine the source of the problem before it can be attacked. Trying to fix the wrong problem does not work.