Nope. just getting my info from an ONAN manual. This is a bit garbled since I'm copying it from a 2 column pdf file- 3. Pull spark plug wires off spark plugs and remove spark plugs. Connect an approved spark tester to each of the spark plug wiresand ground them away from spark plug hole. Turn key on and crank engine over for 5 seconds while watching for spark. If a spark occurs regularly, the problem is not in the ignition system. If no spark occurs, go to step 4. Incorrect wiring can cause elec- tronic ignition damage. Do not attach any lead or jumper with power (such as B+) to coil negative terminal. 4. Connect a jumper lead directly from the positive battery terminal to the positive (+) coil terminal (smaller diameter of the two threaded posts). Crank engine over while watching for spark. If spark occurs, the problem is in the low oil pressure cut out switch (if equipped) or related wiring, the lubricating system (low oil pressure), or in the other circuitry bringing voltage to the coil. If no spark occurs, go to step 5. 5. Connect positive side of voltmeter to negative (-) coil terminal (larger diameter of the two threaded posts) and negative side of voltmeter to engine ground. Turn key on and rotate flywheel slowly by hand while observing voltmeter. Voltage should switch between battery voltage and 1-1.5 for each revolution. If voltage does not switch properly, replace ignition module. 6. Install spark plugs and wires. If ignition module is being replaced, be sure to connect red lead from new ignition module to positive (+)terminal of coil, black lead from module to negative (-) terminal of coil. Continuity Test 1. Pull spark plug wires off spark plugs and remove spark plugs. 1-1 Accidentalstarting of the engine AWARNING can result in severe personal injury or death. Remove spark plugs before proceeding. 2. Turn ignition on. 3. Connect a voltmeter between the negative (-) coil terminal (larger diameter of the two threaded posts) and a good engine ground. 4. Rotate the flywheel slowly by hand in the clockwise direction until the voltmeter reading switches from approximately 1 volt to battery voltage. Atthis point, one of the chaff screen screws should lie between the two timing marks on the blower housing. To recheck timing, the flywheel must be rotated another complete revolution in the clockwise direction. Moving the flywheel back and forth across the reference timing mark will not activate the electronic ignition control. This post was edited by bill_kapaun on Mon, Feb 17, 14 at 20:17

Buy whatever you want. Here is something to consider. The mower battery are available in 4 different power levels. 180 CCA 230 CCA 295 CCA 340 CCA The positive terminal is also available on the left or right side of the battery. Check your tractor before buying a new battery. Some batteries are the sealed design - meaning there are no battery caps to add water. Usually the battery terminals do not corrode on the sealed batteries. The other batterys are designed with removable battery caps - so water may be added. These batterys usually develop corrosion on the battery terminals. Periodic cleaning is needed to keep the battery healthy. A battery maintainer is a great tool to keep the battery charged. This charger automatically turns off when the battery is fully charged. If the battery loses a little charge, the maintainer turns back on. A trickle charger will boost a battery to peak power, but there is no turn off feature. If the charger is kept on the battery over the winter, chances the battery will live a short life. Some of the B&S batteries are made by East Penn. Sometimes they are made by the other manufacturer. Same is true with DieHard batteries. These are simply decals applied to the cheapest supplier. I use the East Penn batteries that are sealed as I don't want to fool around with the corrosion issues. When a battery maintainer is used, I see sealed batteries that survive 7-9 years. The water cap batteries will also last a long time if the battery is kept cleaned and charged. during winter storage.

Marcell, Thanks for the possible way to get some final value out of my old equipment built as part of a hobby and career. I was in the Naval Air, and Electricians Mate, was an AE2 P1 when I got off active duty and went into the reserves, I was a Chief Petty Office when I decided to get out of the reserves in 1968. I built Eico versions of all the instruments you mention, except the tube tester. That was on my list, I just didn't get to it before transistors took over. I went to college after leaving the Navy and have worked as an electrical engineer for many years - as could be concluded from the date I put on myself above, not to mention the date of the subject of this excursion away from the subject of this CAR forum thread. I have all the manuals to go with the test and signal generation equipment. As I mention the scope didn't work well, the problem there was a poor quality (multi-output) transformer, which had to supply the hight voltages associated with vacuum tubes. A few years back I purchased a dual trace scope from Radio Shack. It is a fully calibrated (time base and amplitude) with multiple trigger capabilities. It looks and functions like the old Tectronics (sp?) and HP scopes I used in my early days as an engineer. I think I paid about $300 for it, I couldn't pass up the buy. I rarely use it, but enjoy seeing it on my electronic/computer workbench anyway. This bench still has projects on it, that I never seem to find time to get around too... could be I'm spending too much time chatting on these forums.

I'm with flyleft, jakeabedy, that was freaking *hilarious*. I've never actually been in a RH store, so I can't speak to the quality of their furniture. And I know I may be the only one on this thread, but I do like that lounger, it would fit me, mr. sandyponder, the kid and the canines and I see it as the perfect place to while away a stormy winter afternoon listening to Tanglefoot or John Hiatt and reading our respective books-of-the-moment. However, I am absolutely, positively sure that it's way out of our price range, so we'll stick to the CL sofas that we already own and that are already nicely dog haired. sandyponder