well, lessee how this looks: "30.8. Slip the crankshaft pulley down far enough to get the belt off of the pulley, and remove the belt from the crankshaft. See Figure 30.8. NOTE: Belt keepers that are part of the tractor frame prevent the belt from being removed without lowering the pulley. NOTE: The pulley may be removed from the crankshaft at the discretion of the technician." That's right out of the 1000-1500 series serv manual.... and I don't really know if there is enuff room to lift thet engine straight up with the ground drive pulley in place to be able to wangle the ground drive belt off past those fixed keepers - which I fully agree are something of a PITA. just saying... MHO.

UPDATE: The sillcock key did the trick. It was a 4-way cross configuration, with 1/4", 9/32", 5/16" and 11/32" square sockets. I tapped out the cross piece, to give me two tubular sockets, and found the 5/16 size would fit over the set screws. I was then able to place a piece of square section rod in the other end, and used a wrench to get the set screws out. They were not that tight, which makes sense with the alloy pulley they were tapped into. With some prying, I was able to get the pulley off, pull out the impeller shaft (woodruff key fell out with pulley), and remove the bearing assembly. The bearing itself, does not look to bad. I measured the internal diameter and the impeller shaft diameter, and have less than 1/32" of play (far less than the 1/8" Tomplum mentioned). I am still puzzled by the hex set screw in the bearing housing. The brass sleeve runs through the center of a ball, formed by two pressed steel hemispheres. This ball is retained by collars on the impeller housing, and can rotate to compensate for variations in position of the front auger gearbox. The set screw is in the overlap area of the two steel hemispheres, so it may simply be providing additional securing for holding the pieces together. I was also wondering if the assembly contained some sort lubricant, that was intended to permeate out and lubricate the bearing? Anyway, I was intending to check the front auger end bearings next, and then reassemble. I was thinking that some sort of lubricant would be beneficial on the support bearing. Normally, I would expect to use oil on a sleeve bearing but perhaps this application is different? It certainly wouldn't be too difficult to occasionally add a few drops of oil to the shaft on the pulley side of the bearing. I am open to your opinions and suggestions, based on your personal experience and knowledge. Thanks again for all the responses.

My first concern would be the noise issue. There are municipal statutes regarding the db levels that are unacceptable. While it is their property to do with as they wish, it does not preclude infringements upon your rights. You obviously bought this tract for privacy and solitude but now that is being affected adversely by a neighbor that couldn't care less about what they are going to put you through. I would approach them with your issues FIRST to see how they receptive they are to your concerns. If that doesn't work, get a copy of your local noise ordinance. Send a copy to the neighbor with a note repeating your request to keep the noise down and explaining that you'll be forced to notify the authorities if you don't get results. Be sure to provide details on the problem, including the dates and times of the noise. Almost every community prohibits excessive, unnecessary, and unreasonable noise, and police enforce these laws. To find your municipality's noise rules, look up the local ordinances. Check out: www.statelocalgov.net and www.municode.com. Ordinances designate certain "quiet hours". Many towns also prohibit sustained noise that exceeds a certain decibel level. The decibel limits are set according to the time of day and the neighborhood zoning. When a neighbor complains, police place decibel level monitoring equipment on an estimated property line and take a reading. You can go through small claims court to receive actual and punitive damages. You will have to show that there is excessive and disturbing noise, that the person you are suing is either creating the noise or is the landlord and therefore responsible, the enjoyment of your home is affected and that you have asked the person to stop the noise. To prove your case, use police reports, witnesses, your own testimony, or even a recording. The thing is that they won't be ordered to stop, only fined. To make them cease you will need to go to regular civil court ((I think.) You do realize that those kids are going to be running the go-carts at full throttle from daylight to dark all Summer long! The dust will cover everything outside and inside your home too. Nothing that you plant or erect is going to stop the noise or the dust so I wouldn't go to ANY personal expense because it'll just be a waste of your time and money. Being an evil instigator I did think of a few other things to do...You could always buy a few hogs and put their pen next to the fence. See which is worse, the smell they have to endure from your swine or the noise you have to deal with from their racetrack. You could hang a dozen fish in the sun to dry each week too. Don't you need a port-a-john along that fence so you don't have to run inside? Tell them that you're seriously considering selling a parcel of your property (adjoining theirs) for a municipal solid waste facility or a rendering plant. Chickens, guineas, geese & ducks are nice! :-) Thoughtless and...

I have had a 30" Bluestar range for for about 13 years now, and have lived with what was intermittent but now constant loud grinding noise when the convection fan is turned on. I "tightened things" a couple of years ago, but just today said enough is enough...it is coming apart and I am fixing this. I found the source of the noise and it took about 45 minutes for me to fix it. First you need to completely remove the fan motor, and you do this through the oven. There is no need to move the range. Although it is always recommended that you disconnect the power before working on electrical components, I did not. Take it for what it is worth. 1. Remove the convection fan shield (4 sheet metal screws) 2 Remove the fan motor housing (4 machine screws) 3. Tilt out motor housing and then disconnect the wires- label the motor so you can reconnect them properly. Once the motor/fan assembly is out, take a look at the back side of the assembly and inspect the backside fan that keeps the motor cool. Do the fan blades contact any of the three motor support brackets? Mine contacted one of the supports and it was clear that I needed to re-position the fan. Mine was easy to re-position by moving the tension/compression washer from the oven side of the assembly to the motor side. Here is how I did that. 1. Remove the convection fan (the nut is opposite threaded so righty-loosey), Remove washer and spring clip with needle nose pliers---careful---it can "sproing" away! 2. Remove the square cover (4 machine screws secured by 4 nuts on the back) 3. Remove the insulation from the square box (use a knife to probe to the bottom and pry it up) 4. Remove the three machine screws that attach the motor support arms to the square box and remove box (Mark the orientation...It needs to go back the same way) 5. Now you are down to the backside fan. Remove the spring clip that secures the top washer(again...don't let it "sproing" away). Then remove the flat washer and compression washer from the oven side of the shaft. 6. You can now remove the backside fan. It is a tight fit and some light oil, a small file, some fine abrasive sandpaper may be needed to smooth the shaft to be able to pull off the fan. Wear gloves and gentle pressure will get it off. Be creative, but I didn't need any special pullers. Rotating the shaft with the nut back on while holding onto the fan also helps to work it up the shaft. 7. With the backside fan off, take a moment to file down the contact point on the motor support bracket just a little, for good measure. I did this to the small ridges on the support arm that were being contacted, but I did not file the structural part of the arm lest I weaken it. 8. Re-position the compression/tension washer from the oven side of the fan to the motor side of the fan, just on top of the washer on the shaft, which is just on top of another spring clip (you don't need to remove those. By re-positioning the tension washer, you effectively move the backside fan ever-so-slightly toward the oven side and away from the support arms. 9. Put the fan back on the shaft in the same orientation, but this time on top of the tension washer, then place the second washer and spring clip back on. Spin the fan to make sure it doesn't contact any of the arms. Yes, it will wobble, and that is ok. The tension washer doesn't/can't keep the fan true to the shaft...but again, it won't matter as long as it isn't contacting any fixed surfaces. 10. Re-assembly is the reverse. Moving that tension washer was all the clearance I needed to have a near-whisper quiet fan....Finally after all these years!