The 200 feet is not the problem. At even say a few GPH of oil flow, the pressure drop in the 200 feet is miniscule. Since the point of use is below the lowest level of oil in the tank, the single stage pump should work. The only problem I see is the initial priming of the pump since the 8 foot lift has to be negotiated. Once done, the 8 feet does NOT affect the flow since it forms a "loop" , so then the differential height between the oil tiop and the point of use actually "helps" the pumping.

In a municipal water supply system the static head pressure on the system is primarily generated by means of water towers. Water exerts 0.434psi per/ft on a vertical column of liquid. (Vertical Static Head) In order to insure that the system will maintain the required code minimum of 45psi the support tower is 105' tall above average terrain to the base of the storage tank. (105' x 0,434psi= 45.57psi) The storage tank on the top of the tower may then be as much as 92ft higher. (0.434psi x 92' = 39.92psi) From this we can easily see that when the storage tank is empty we still have a static head pressure of 45psi, however when the tank is full the static head pressure at the ground level would be 45psi + 40psi = 85psi. The storage tank is then fitted with a pump controlled by a float system very similar to the fill valve in a toilet tank. Wherever practical the system is allowed to use the water from the tank during the day and the pumps are set up to refill the tank at night when the electrical supply for the pumps is on an off peak demand. Generally a municipal water supply will provide the highest static head pressure to your house early in the morning when the tank is full, but that pressure may decrease throughout the day as the water level in the storage tank drops. To this point we have discussed the pressure above average terrain however the actual pressure at your faucet is a net result of the physical differential between the elevation of your faucet and the top surface of the water in the storage tank. If your house is substantially above the average terrain elevation at the storage tank your water pressure will be less than the average for the community, and conversely, if your house is below average terrain your water pressure will be higher. By example, I am familiar with one community in W.PA where the town is built on steep hills. While the municipal water system can provide water pressures within the prescribed code range of 45-80psi for the majority of the community, there are neighborhoods at the bottom of the hills where all structures must be fitted with PRV's. On the other hand, some of the structures on the top of the hills actually require boost pumps to maintain code minimum. As you can see from this, during the course of a day the line pressure could vary by as much as 40psi, depending upon the actual level of the water in the municipal storage tank. For this reason we do not install pressure gauges on systems supplied by a municipal water supplier because the gauge would not provide any truly useful information, and it would only cause undue apprehension of the part of the untrained homeowner, which would then results in hundreds of unwarranted complaints to the water supplier.

Hi Sparky823, your questions are valid, I will try and explain, as best I can. 1. I can drill a well on my own land, but water law would then expose me to lawsuits from neighbors with shallow wells. They could claim I dried up their wells even if their wells have been dry for decades. They may even be waiting for me to do it so they can cash-in on the lawsuit. There is no way to prove either way, of course, but legal precedent in these matters is on their side. Besides, this is a small community and if I alienate someone, I am gonna have to live with them for a very long time and living in a neighborhood where people hate you is the pitts. Soon someone will buy one of their houses and maybe join us non-well-owners side and the balance of power will have shifted. But this is Santa Barbara, and even a piss-poor shack in the woods goes for $2million nowadays so it may be a while. 2.They have wells because their houses were built before mine long ago and my house was probably a guest house or something. There are about 6 houses with shallow wells and 6 without. These wells are shallow, dry or drying, and contaminated but allow the owners of those properties to not have to pay anything for the sketchy water system, even though everyone knows they use the same water from the spring as the rest of us. Those of us who do not have wells pay $25/house/month + $15/person/month for upkeep of the existing water system, such as it is. And who controls the sketchy water system? You guessed it, the shallow well owners! So they are making bank off it to boot. I cant do anything about it, water wars are the history of California and it wont change. So when water is trucked in, they want 1st dibs on it even though us non-well owners are who is paying for it. Its not fair and I may, as I said, go to war over it; but I have only lived here for 7years and some of these bastards have been here for 70+years. I think I can just wait em out, but every year I get angrier. I may drill a deep water well (6-800 feet) if I could hide the operation in my basement or something, but I doubt that its feasible, and I obviously dont know how to drill wells. So they claim they are living off their wells and dont want to lose their "freedom"; and for now I am trying to "get along". But I will not put up with this nonsense much longer and will appeal to the state health board or some government agency to override them if water still runs out.

I ran into the same problem on an old chain saw. Get the correct ID line size which has a larger OD than the hole in the tank, cut the end at an acute angle and slide it into the hole, use a pair of doctor pliers (hemostat) to pull it through while stretching on it from the outside. The line grys smaller as you stretched and when you get it long enough into the tank to pull it through the filler hole let it go and it will swell back to original size to form a "seal" in the hole. Cut the acute angle off, install the filter and attach the other end to the carb. Hope this helps, it's early and I am still asleep.