keeferb, Well I just used your step-by-step process of filling tires with one execption: my method of breaking the top bead included two very carefully aimed swats with a sledgehamer--much easier logistically speaking. Just last year I tore the sidewall on one of my 23x10.50-12 turf savers. I wanted to replace both of the rears (even though the other was like new) with some HDAP (aka: HD Field Trax), but alas, they're not available in that size. I wasn't confident that the 24" would provide enough clearance, so I just replaced it with a like tire. But after slipping around for the rest of the season on my turf tires (and getting stuck while tilling), I decided to go all out and fix the traction problem once and for all. It would be nice to have a good all-around tire, but since I already had two like new (and expensive) turf tires, I decided to pick up a set of old rims on eBay and mount some serious traction tires. I found a set of rims off an old JD 200 series, which fit the GT225's bolt pattern but had about another inch of offset. They were a little rusty but straight. Then I found a pair of 4-ply Carlisle Tru Power lug tires (just a little heavier than the Super Lug) for $207 after shipping. I worked my way through college mounting tires, but after wrestling with a pair of crowbars for about 5 minutes, I figured I'd just run down to the local service station and pay them the $10 a tire fee to mount them (tires this size or bigger will fit on a standard automotive changer). I tried to get them to fill the tires for me but they were afraid of making a big mess, so declined. When I got home I removed the valve cores, gave them a whack with the sledge, jammed a paintbrush handle into the bead to keep it away from the rim and poured 5 gallons of cheap washer fluid into each tire (about 40 lbs per wheel). I probably could have squeezed 6 gallons into each wheel. I inflated the tires with the core out to seat the bead; then put the core in and reset the pressure. I did a little leaf bagging and was amazed at the difference in traction. The tires didn't tear up my lawn at all. All things considered (used rims, can of JD yellow, two tires, mounting, 10 gallons w/w fluid), it cost me well under $300 to turn my deere into a traction monster.

I don't know much about engines or trannys, but what he said does make sense to me. According to JD, the 300 and 304 are both designed for light duty residential use ... ie relatively flat terrain. If your needs meet those conditions, and you want 4 wheel steering, you get the 304 ... if not, the 300 will perform as well and last as long. But if you need a more robust tractor, you move up to the tractor that matches up ... 320, 340, 500, etc. Spending $400 more for a 4 wheel steering when what you need is a heavier duty tractor is spending money in the wrong direction... you still end up with a light duty tractor. From a logic standpoint, this doesen't make sense to me "... can't see how your mechanic would consider the K58 a requisite tranny for the X304 b/c of the AWS." If it's not necessary for the 304, why is JD using it? If the K46 is insufficient for the 300, why use it? Why would JD take the risk of making the 300 under engineered for it's intended use ... basically making the 300 a lemon. Both tractors are designed for the same purpose\conditions .... the 304 isn't marketed as a "heavier duty" 300, or a step between the 300 and 320. So to me, the logical reason for using the K58 in the 304 is because it needs it due to the one diffence between the two tractors: 4 wheel steering.

A technique I have often used: Find a slight, abrupt incline that you can back the truck up to. You may have to "experiment" with the placement of the truck as to how close to the incline you need to park the truck. Generally, as close to the incline as you can put the rear wheels of the truck WITHOUT the rear wheels climbing onto the slope is best. If the rear wheels begin to ascend the slope, you negate the benefit of the less acute "angle of approach" that the inclined terrain provides. A sidewalk curb can be used if available. You can also place lengths of 2 X 8 or 2 X 10 lumber under the bottom end of ramp to lessen the angle of approach. The boards need to be long enough for all 4 tires to be on the boards before any tires engage the ramp. You can "double the thickness" of the boards by placing a second, shorter length of lumber atop the first. Arrange the second board so that the double thickness is under the end of the ramp. Using a shorter board for the second layer means you have only small "steps" to climb over with the tractor tires. Use a couple of deck screws to secure the boards together if you need to use this method. Its also wise to run a couple of screws into the boards in front of the lower edge of each ramp so the ramp can't slip backward on the smooth surface of the board. Another (but more cumbersome) trick I have had to employ in a pinch utilizes a trailer and a second vehicle to "handle the trailer". In this scenario, it was neccessary to load a "dead" 4-wheel ATV into the bed of a 4X4 pick-up truck that had been raised "mucho grande" off the ground. A friend had bought this ATV and needed to get it home. Friend also had an injured shoulder at the time and needed a "chauffeur" (that was me). When we departed home to go for the ATV, we were planning to use a come-along to winch the ATV into the truck bed. The ramps that we borrowed from one of his friends were not long enough work with the elevation of the truck bed. The angle was so great that when we attempted to winch the ATV aboard, it just dragged the ramps into the truck bed and made the situation worse. There were not enough people available to "He-man" the ATV into the pick-up. There was, however, a nearby person whom I knew, that had a tandem axle trailer and a pick-up to move it with. I called the owner of the trailer (he was at work) and explained our plight. He said his wife was home and he would call her to have her give us the her set of keys to his pick-up. We then loaded the dead ATV onto the trailer (using "our" ramps) with a come-along. When we had the ATV in the trailer, we moved the trailer a few yards to get the axles of the trailer on top of a small "rise" or hump (we were in a field, formerly pasture). Then we backed the 4X4 pick-up (with tailgate removed) into position behind the trailer. The rise in terrain put the end of the trailer high enough that there was now only a small difference between the elevation of truck bed and the floor of the trailer. We placed our ramps in position and used the come-along to drag the ATV into the truck bed. I used a backhoe/loader to get the ATV out when we got back to my friend's place. Not saying either scenario is what you need to do. I just wanted to bring out some more "tricks" in case anyone ever found themselves in a predicament with limited resources.

after reading all the opinions about this guy, i'm convinced that there are more misinformed fools in this world than i had thought before i just bought an older 12h.p. simplicity tractor that came with the 36" blower, and the 36" mower deck, all for $500.00. it's not that i couldn't afford a nice new j.d. tractor from the local big box store, i'm 70 years old. most people i know, realize that the big box stores sell inferior merchandise. j.d. tractors that are sold from these places are cheap, junk.. this is all because j.d. wants everybody to own their product. they have done the one thing that will damage their good name, forever, all because they are trying to tighten their belts and make even more money..in the end, anybody with a half a brain could figure this out. i'm a believer that the older tractors are built better and they were meant to last and last. the newer ones are meant to be thrown away so you will buy another new one, just as it is with most things..for my money, anybody is better off buying a good used tractor that still will outlast a new big box one, providing that the older one has been taken care of. the guy will probably regret ever buying the piece of junk but, i'm sure he'll enjoy driving his tractor that shines more than the used simplicity. just my three cents worth. jim.