If its cheap and there would not be a problem if it failed along the road.Why not go for it.Im sure your student has a Cell Phone and Road Side Service opputunitys are reasonable these days.

However if its expensive.Priced the same as a low mileage late model vehical.Why take the chance with it?Personally a 6 year old vehical with 150.000 miles on it.Is a $2000.00 vehical that is still a decent buy.However if its $3000.00 and above its just an overpriced beater.Dont fall for the Import brands are better and last longer.With a higher used price tag and worth it.Because there not.

If your student will be going to school in a paid for cash older high mileage vehical.That did not break the bank.Its more then likley a good deal.However if your student will be making payments on a 6 year old vehical.You might want to consider something newer or new.Just a more basic car perhaps with low miles and alot more life left in it.The payments might even be the same monthly just a few extra years to pay.But will last atleast a few years longer.

Hmmm. A 6 year old vehicle with 150,000 miles. That's 25,000 miles per year. Hope these were long trip miles, not comutes. But then, hope is not assurance.

This is a lot of miles. It's got to be very cheaply priced to even consider. Likely it was traded out because it is worn. My advice is to look for something else. Before you decide to buy it, get it inspected by a competent mechanic.

If the vehicle spent its life north of the Mason-Dixon line, examine it carefully for salt corrosion damage. Check out the driver's seat. It may be sacked out. 150,000 miles translates into a lot of driver hours on the seat.

How is the alignment and condition of all the steering linkages? Brakes? Hand brake? Shocks? Tires? Transmission?

Do all the important accessories work: lights, windshield wipers, rear wipers, electric windows, all electrically operated door locks, dash lamps, AC/Heater, defroster, emergency flasher, turn signals, interior lamps, positioners for the outside rear view mirrors. etc. Note that I left the radio and CD player out of this list since this is usually not essential for basic transportation.

The engine is the big question at 150,000 miles. It may be due for a valve job unless these have already been refreshed.

Thanks for all the great info, of which I never knew to look for! They were asking $5500 for the car. It "looked" good comestically. Claimed they were all freeway miles between Northern and Southern Ca. (that's a long haul). I've been having a hard time finding a used car here that's safe(think freeways)with low mileage, and good mpg. My 19 year old volvo is still one of the safest cars, but with 300,000 can't possibly go on for much longer and needs to be put to pasture. (Of course no car is safe when it breaks down on the freeway.)Larger trucks drink too much and are just too big for parking lots. I hate dealing with car dealers, and have been looking at private parties. I guess I'll have to wait until the next 80 year old cuts me off and then I'll offer to buy their car.
Thanks again for the advice.'

Highway miles are not that hard on a car, so if they really were racked up on highways along the coast, that's not a showstopper. I'd sooner buy a car with 25,000 highway miles a year than a car that did 10,000 miles of pizza delivery a year. However, you still will have the wear items that will need to be repaired or replaced at that mileage. A good mechanic would help you out in figuring if there's anything besides standard maintenance needed. Keep in mind that it's unlikely that gasoline is going to get any cheaper in the next few years -- you can research on-line to find out what kind of mileage you could expect from that vehicle.

Go to edmunds . com and look up the make/model/year for comments/reviews and fair market value. You may also shimmy around to an older year to compensate for the higher mileage and see what happens.

as others have stated you have to take the mileage into serious consideration. This vehicle has some high dollar maintenance issues looming in the near fufture simply adjust the pricing to allow for that and you are good to go. 2k seems fairly reasonable if they will not take that find something else. It is a BUYERS MARKET out there on used vehicles be picky/negotiate tough/deduct for any shortcomings whether existing or expected. You are in the perfect position to have a blast shopping for a used vehicle the darn things are cheap dirt get U one.

I just purchased a brand new KIA brand Korean car, called
SPECTRA. It was suggested that I spend $400-500 to have
the chasis rustproofed because the original rustproofing
may not last and/or be good enough. What do you recommend
I should do.

Don't fall for it.

Dont think that Kia does their Phosphate E-coat body dip much different from any other auto manufacturer. Besides a Kia is basically disposable so if it rusts a bit consider it a character mark and keep driving.

Third-party rustproofing is notorious for being little more than a moneymaker for whoever sells it to you. First, some cheapo rustproofers cause more problems than they head off just by applying the material (making additional holes in the body, etc.). Second, the fine print of their warranties will make any real claim quite difficult. Third, with so many car companies doing a much better job of rustproofing (Volkswagen warrants against rust perforation for 12 years), third-party rustproofers have been going out of business left and right (remember "Rusty Jones"?).

Save your money.

I bought a 2003 Yukon with 98000 miles on it. Very good condition all the the bells and whistles for $15,000. Do you think that I spend to much on it?

My son in law purchased a 2000 Plymouth Breeze with 210K on it had to replace 2 tires and do a brake job, knew about these things before buying, paid 1100 for car. Everything works, power windows door locks seats etc. Has driven car for almost a year and no problems. I advised against buying it, but looks like I was wrong