So ? What do you want us to do ? You give no information.
6 ? 8 ? automatic ? standard ? when was the last tune up ?
how long does it run before the stall ? Plugged fuel filter
to a broken transmission mount will do that. how long is a
piece of string ? Need more info.

An 8 cylinder '94 Grand Am? You don't know much about cars, do you? A plugged fuel filter (almost unheard of, these days) would cause the opposite problem: loss of power under load, long before a stalling problem ever showed up. Some folks seem to have not worked on a car built in the last 30 years, but insist on putting in their 2 cents anyway. But I digress...

To the OP: start by checking the throttle body and idle air controller for a carbon/sludge buildup. Common cause of this problem.

Chad. Very interesting comment. I appreciate the conflict. Keeps everyone on their toes. the thing i noticed was you
throw a possible repair at this poster without getting any
history of the vehicle. That is just guessing. ( parts thrower )? I actually have a 94 Grand AM in my shop with a 400 small block in it. I have a 1980 mustang hatchback that used to have a 4 in it. It now has a 302. Not a 5 LT.
but a 302, they are not the same. That is why i asked. You never know what a customer did to the vehicle. i've been around long enough that i've rebuilt spark plugs. Yes the old ones were rebuildable. i've seen plug wires that were 3/8 inch copper strips. I've set dwell angle on 48 ford flat heads.I still have a buzz box in my roll cab. I have an 08 Cadillac in my stall with a driveability problem( can't talk about it just yet ). If i wanted to do some part throwing i'd, without seeing the car and any history say T.P.S. Yes i've worked on cars within the last
30 years.Keep in touch. We could have fun. have a good weekend. Yes John G. You get a shock off that buzz box you will never forget it. IT HURTS, Remember ? I have a steal
one that i clamped into the vice and tested it. Forgot it was 6 volts and put 12 volts to it. i was leaning on the vice handle and got the shock of my life. Burned a hole
throw my shirt. Remember those babies ? hope everyone is making the big bucks.

Well, that was a nice bit of ego stroking, but unfortunately talk of Ford flatheads and rebuildable spark plugs has absolutely no relevance to the OP's problem.
As for me being a "parts thrower", I suggested a simple visual inspection of a likely problem that takes less than one minute. No parts involved. Perhaps your reading comprehension needs work as well.

Guessing is fun and entertaining maybe everyone could get in a couple of guesses? My first guess would be that someone has recently done a engine swap and installed a Ford flathead and you will need big K to bring down his buzz box to fix this puppy, if he can find it in his roll cab (what is a roll cab anyway??)

Easiest first, a Roll Cab is of course a tool box. Most technicians today have so much invested in their hand tools, that the biggest box at Sears would be terribly inadequate to protect them. If you look at the biggest box Sears sells, you would need three of them for my tool collection, and there would be items that still would not fit. My MATCO Rolling Tool Cabinet (Roll Cab) holds 85% of my things and if you think of it as a safe instead of just a tool box then you are looking at it the right way. In the case of professional theives my tools are still at risk, but if the local crack head tries to get them the most likely result will be them safely in the box, or a senario somewhat similar to a giant rat trap.

Back to the OP. Information as given here is exactly enough for me to drive the car and start testing for what is wrong with it. While some things can be thought of as secondary needs, the OP's description leaves sufficient room to expect this problem is not just one thing wrong. Stalling at stops can be caused by a loss of fuel, spark, airflow, or a combination of such. The sluggishness he alludes to might be related to the stall, and yet it might not be. This single detail "could" be related to a fuel supply issue, but frankly there are some details that I would expect to see from the poster, that have not been disclosed yet. If he was here at my shop I would be asking some specific questions to attempt to get a clearer picture of these events. Things like weather conditions, accessory loads, vehicle drive time, details such as if highway driving or intown appear to influence the symptom. One such detail would be if it acts up in a specific area (time) from when first driven, or if mulitple restarts are required before the trouble occurs, or if in fact multiple restarts would make it not occur.

These details are so important to getting the car in and fixed the first time that I cannot stress it enough. Presently there is a 2000 Chevrolet Blazer right beside me that got towed in, for a no start. If jumped it would run for a short period of time, and then stall back out. Simple fix right? The alternator was definately bad. However pulling it in the door I noticed it had very poor throttle response. After charging the battery, before replacing the alternator I tested just a little further, this thing is starving for fuel big time. I have to ask myself, why didn't the owner tell me about that? Does she think that the way this was running is only because of the alternator problem? Could she be one of the people I have encountered in the past that will act like this fuel problem was never there before the alternator failed, so it must be something that I caused and try to get it for free?

There is no subtitute for proper training, tools, equipment, people, and information. It takes all of them to fix cars correctly. People can guess all they want, and like any guess occasionally they will be correct. A car I worked on recently came in with two seperate problems that caused identical symptoms. The first of the two problems was simple, secondary ignition insulation failure allowing the spark to jump to ground causing a missfire. The second problem was no so simple. A primary computer input was glitching and causing the computer to cut the injector pulse to 1/3rd of what was required to fire a cylinder. The "feel" was identical to an ignition missfire. To satisfy the customer, both of those problems had to be diagnosed and repaired. Otherwise "It still would have been doing the same thing".

awh the roll cab (rolling tool cabinet) we call these gang boxes in construction. I have some big enough for all your tools and probably all of big K's and all your neighbors also johnnyg. Still I want to guess here since no answers have been narrowed down. My next guess is that, the AC compressor was recently replaced. It was a Home job and no flushing or even system vaccum was performed they bolted on a new one and gassed her up cools like rip but with all the moisture/noncondensables and bits of old blown up compressor in the system the compressor is locking up or near lockup condition causing a severe power drain especially at lower engine speeds. Thomasc please confirm or deny the AC work being recently being done so we can call this problem solved or move on to the next guess ASAP.

You have a tool box big enough for ALL of my tools?

Are You Sure?

FWIW my "Tool Box" measures 48ft x 40ft x 14ft. :)

Assuming you have a Buick V6, a common problem with cutting out is the crankshaft angle sensor :

http://www.users.on.net/~nweber/commodore/tech/index.html#vnvr-v6cutsout

(the Commodore used the Buick V6 from the VN model onwards)

The other common problem is a faulty coil (there are three of them).

Here is a link that might be useful: Unofficial Commodore website

Hello,

Just joined the site & at first I thought I found a site where MOST of the members that do the MAJORITY of posting where nice,courtious, and most of all KNOWELDGEABLE, yet after reading these responses I've come to the conclusion that it's just another ROMPER ROOM with a few MAIN CHILDREN that think they know it all. Below are the postings that I'm referring to :

(1) "" Posted by chad_said (My Page) on Sat, Aug 25, 07 at 10:43
Well, that was a nice bit of ego stroking, but unfortunately talk of Ford flatheads and rebuildable spark plugs has absolutely no relevance to the OP's problem.
As for me being a "parts thrower", I suggested a simple visual inspection of a likely problem that takes less than one minute. No parts involved. Perhaps your reading comprehension needs work as well. ""

To Child # 1--AKA chad_said: You need help. Your response was at best, the response I'd expect to hear from a rookie hot-shot, (so they think), Engine designer. Unfortunately, I deal with your kind ALL DAY LONG & after 38 Yrs. in the Design phase of Automobile building I've found that when given enough rope...You'll hang yourself.

This next guy (child #2) cought my attention because he ACTUALLY BELIVES everything He's saying & I hope to GOD that He gets out of the Automotive repair Business, (if he really is even in the FIeld), and pursues a career that's commensurate to his qualifications, like Toilet Bowl Cleaning. Here is THAT Childs Post....

"" Posted by john_g (My Page) on Sun, Aug 26, 07 at 8:30
Easiest first, a Roll Cab is of course a tool box. Most technicians today have so much invested in their hand tools, that the biggest box at Sears would be terribly inadequate to protect them. If you look at the biggest box Sears sells, you would need three of them for my tool collection, and there would be items that still would not fit. My MATCO Rolling Tool Cabinet (Roll Cab) holds 85% of my things and if you think of it as a safe instead of just a tool box then you are looking at it the right way. In the case of professional theives my tools are still at risk, but if the local crack head tries to get them the most likely result will be them safely in the box, or a senario somewhat similar to a giant rat trap.
Back to the OP. Information as given here is exactly enough for me to drive the car and start testing for what is wrong with it. While some things can be thought of as secondary needs, the OP's description leaves sufficient room to expect this problem is not just one thing wrong. Stalling at stops can be caused by a loss of fuel, spark, airflow, or a combination of such. The sluggishness he alludes to might be related to the stall, and yet it might not be. This single detail "could" be related to a fuel supply issue, but frankly there are some details that I would expect to see from the poster, that have not been disclosed yet. If he was here at my shop I would be asking some specific questions to attempt to get a clearer picture of these events. Things like weather conditions, accessory loads, vehicle drive time, details such as if highway driving or intown appear to influence the symptom. One such detail would be if it acts up in a specific area (time) from when first driven, or if mulitple restarts are required before the trouble occurs, or if in fact multiple restarts would make it not occur.

These details are so important to getting the car in and fixed the first time that I cannot stress it enough. Presently there is a 2000 Chevrolet Blazer right beside me that got towed in, for a no start. If jumped it would run for a short period of time, and then stall back out. Simple fix right? The alternator was definately bad. However pulling it in the door I noticed it had very poor throttle response. After charging the battery, before replacing the alternator I tested just a little further, this thing is starving for fuel big time. I have to ask myself, why didn't the owner tell me about that? Does she think that the way this was running is only because of the alternator problem? Could she be one of the people I have encountered in the past that will act like this fuel problem was never there before the alternator failed, so it must be something that I caused and try to get it for free?

There is no subtitute for proper training, tools, equipment, people, and information. It takes all of them to fix cars correctly. People can guess all they want, and like any guess occasionally they will be correct. A car I worked on recently came in with two seperate problems that caused identical symptoms. The first of the two problems was simple, secondary ignition insulation failure allowing the spark to jump to ground causing a missfire. The second problem was no so simple. A primary computer input was glitching and causing the computer to cut the injector pulse to 1/3rd of what was required to fire a cylinder. The "feel" was identical to an ignition missfire. To satisfy the customer, both of those problems had to be diagnosed and repaired. Otherwise "It still would have been doing the same thing".

Oh and I almost forgot this LAUGHABLE description of his " ROLLCAB"

Posted by john_g (My Page) on Sun, Aug 26, 07 at 12:08
FWIW my "Tool Box" measures 48ft x 40ft x 14ft.

LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL WHAT Planet is THIS guy living on ? A FORTY EIGHT x FORTY x FOURTEEN (FOOT) "rollcab" ?

Like I said earlier, another ROMPER ROOM and THESE two are probably in the corner more than anyone else.

Good Day to all of the REAL posters out there.

Earth, what planet are you from?