jbryson1, welcome to the board. As a Ford Electrical engineer (retired) we will find some common ground, and probably some where we will bump heads. While specific vehicle knowledge can come into play on some models, and plug and play is acceptable, there are others out there that plug and play attempts can cause serious problems so that really should be avoided at all costs. First thing, the 4WD indicator blinking does indicate a fault in the 4WD system, and they probably would not have 4WD available if they needed it. One of the biggest things they need to know is the dealer isn't the only place to have this looked at. Most independents can handle GEM module issues with the run of the mil scan tools such as the Snap-On MTG2500, the Genisys, or the Mastertech. However top shops will have an NGS on hand for these systems as well. As far as the repair that was done a few months ago, forget about it for the moment Sue. The car should be diagnosed right now as if it's never had any other problems or repairs. It would really be a waste of time and effort to pull the door panel and start looking at things first, before following a proper diagnostic routine. That being said, the easiest circuit to deal with is the power window circuit. As I said, for this car, and especially this system, I would choose the NGS for my scan tool. The first step I would perform is pull the drivers door switch, and check for power at the LT Blue/Black wire. If there is no power to that wire with the key on, I would use my NGS and attempt to command the ACCY delay relay on/off. BTW, the ACCY Delay relay not only controls the power windows, it also powers up the torque on demand relay, which is part of the 4WD system. Depending on my findings at this point I would be either headed towards the ACCY delay relay, or the GEM module for the next step in the diagnostics. But the most important thing, is I would not be getting anything to plug in and try, and this is where jb and I will be at odds. Ford for some reason has never embraced the idea that technicians are capable of critical thinking skills, and quite able to analyze a system like this. All we need in many cases is a fault code, the criteria that the system uses to determine the fault, and an appropriate schematic, and we will go find the problem in an efficient manor. Now the main reason that I would start where I did in my diagnostics? The switch is easy to access. Plus you said you "windows" don't work which I take as being all of them. The RH door does not get controlled directly through the GEM module. But the ACCY Delay relay, is controlled by the battery saver relay, and it is controlled by the GEM. Once you understand the circuit, it would be easy to temporarily take control of one or both relays away from the GEM, and see if you can operate them and the windows. That is the outline for a solid diagnostic routine, and armed with a schematic, and the correct tools any tech would diagnose your car without unneccesary expense and substitution of "known good parts" that you don't presently own. Use the link below to find a good electrical/electronics technician near you. Here is a link that might be useful: the international Automotive Technicians Network

The difference between success and failure could still be the browsers. IE is more intensive on resources than FF. If you feel like experimenting do a C-A-D and end everything but Explorer and System Tray. Then try IE and shutdown. What brand is the system? HP at one time had a sound driver/Win98 conflict with shutdown. You might want to try the Windows 98 Help search word "troubleshoot" (sans quotes). Without going out to the garage to verify, my recollection is there is a Startup and Shutdown troubleshooter in Win98. Also, my recollection is SFC will identify changed and corrupt files, but unless you can find the specific file in the Windows .inf folder you will need a Win98 disk to extract it from to repair. All over the map here, just trying to come up with an answer. DA

Moving this down...

In fact, I just finished talking to him. I mainly just asked him about the Hybrid pump with just a couple of questions about the VF versus X2. John stated that there is no pump on the market that can move close to the same amount of water for the same energy consumed. For 2 inch pipe with a Sta-rite system3 DE filter, he estimates that at their default 1500 rpm filtering speed, the Hybrid pump would move 60 to 80 GPM using 1.8 amps. This equates to 230V X 1.8 amps = 414 watts. I searched TFP and found chemgeek listed a slew of speeds and wattage readings from his VF (60 GPM, 2710 rpm = 1305 watts). That's a little below what John estimated the VF would consume with my setup. If I drop the rpm to 1000 on the Hybrid, the amps would drop to 0.5 = 115 watts. Unfortunately, I forgot to ask him the GPM estimate. But it's obvious that he believes the hybrid to be the most efficient variable on the market. Using the 1.8 amps for 1500 rpm moving 60 GPM (low end of his estimate for GPM), to turnover 32K gallons 1 time would consume 3.68kwh in 8.9 hours. According to your spreadsheet using Curve A, the VF at 1000 rpm would take 3.15 kwh running for 24.24 hours. Getting the VF to turnover in 8.98 hours requires 10.4kwh (using chem geek's numbers, it would be 11.6 kwh). Unfortunately, no CEC data to perform apples to apples comparison via the spreadsheet. But given that another X2 user on the forum reports using 2.2 amps using solar and running his waterfall, the efficiency could be close to what John states. Replacement cost is another consideration I asked John about. Since the drive is the most expensive aspect of the VF with its custom application, the availability of an off the shelf driver for the Hybrid that they customize the programming on makes the cost much more reasonable - in the $300 range. The pump motor is custom made to their specs and they have not had a single failure in 3 years. John stated that the drive's job is to keep the motor safe so it won't allow it to run outside of pre-set parameters or it will shut it down. I also found out that I won't need an automation system to run the X2. The drive has an internal timer which will allow me to run X time at vacuum speed and the rest at filter speed. My intermatic clock would control on/off like it currently does for the single speed. Hybrid also has a 2 year warranty on everything. The only question left is longevity of the company itself. Can they sell enough and get PBs to start using their product to stay in business? I'm really impressed after running the numbers.