Well, one way to determine if the head gasket is leaking compression/combustion into the cooling system is to connect a common radiator pressure tester to the radiator filler port before starting the engine when cold. DO NOT pump any pressure into the radiator with the tester pump, you are only going to use the pressure gauge to see how soon, and how much pressure, registers on the pressure gauge. If the pressure gauge shows a rise of pressure up to or near the pressure rating of the cap within a minute or so after starting, that indicates the system is being pressurized by something other than normal thermal expansion. Another way to test for compression/combustion leakage into the cooling system is very "old school" but still valid, however, it requires caution and a stop watch or timer. For this test, begin with a cold engine. Remove the fan belt from the pulleys and get the belt away from the crank pulley. Removing the belt disables the water pump and this is necessary because the swirl of the pump could spoil the "quiet stillness" needed to observe the escaping gases (if they are present). Remove the radiator cap. Top off the radiator with coolant so that there is no empty space below the inner radiator cap seat flange. Start the engine and your timer (or note the time on your watch). DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE MORE THAN 2 MINUTES without a fan belt. With the engine at idle RPM, watch the coolant in the radiator filler opening. If you see what look like "air bubbles" begin to burb out of the radiator opening within a few seconds after starting the cold engine, that is "compression/combustion gases" escaping from the cooling system. Be advised that on some engines and depending on how bad the compression/combustion leak actually is..........what you might see instead of a few bubbles............could be a geyser of coolant shooting up from the radiator filler opening, so don't stick your face too close to the opening, or directly above it, and you would be wise to wear some kind of approved eye safety goggles or face shield. If you see gas bubbles or a geyser within 2 minutes, you definitely have compression/combustion leaking into the cooling system. Now, about the tendency for the "grass screen" to clog quickly. That is unusual unless there are some other circumstances or conditions that are promoting a "cloud of debris" in front of the radiator while you are mowing. Have you looked really close at what the screen is catching? How tall is the grass or weeds (as I don't know what you normally are cutting) that you are mowing? Does the grass or weeds usually have "seed heads" or dandelion fluff? What about other types of plants such as milkweed (that also have airborne seeds connected to "fluff parasails")? If the grass/weeds you are mowing is fairly tall, has seed heads (or both) and you are mowing with the front bucket down low enough to "skim" the plants.......when the plants rebound after the bucket passes them, they are flinging fluff and seeds into the radiator air inflow zone where the screen can capture them. If that scenario does not match what you are doing, then you need to look closely at the exact circumstances that ARE taking place when you mow. Something is causing the tractor to draw debris filled air into the radiator and something is causing that debris cloud to be present. If you are cutting at a higher level in sparsely vegetated turf, it's likely that all this "chaff" is escaping all around the edges of the deck instead of being neatly discharged out the directional discharge chute. If that is what is happening, you (or someone) might need to engineer some sort of skirt in front of the deck to stop the chaff and clippings from escaping toward the front of the tractor.

I had the same experience. I bought a really cheap clock for my greenhouse. Shortly after inserting the battery I smelled burning, the clock stopped, the battery was so hot I could not touch it, melted the plastic cover, and seemed larger than before. I removed the battery and tried another battery, same brand, same packaging...clock works and the battery is fine. I’ve never heard of anything like this. I have the same question, would it remain hot and catch fire or would it just overheat and the die? I Put the battery back in the clock just to see what would happen Nothing, it was dead,

If you order the blower motor and DIY, will probably cost you less than $100, and you will know its installed right. Will require some learning but its not hard for mechanically inclined folks. You will also learn how to wire the control board and adjust fan speed. Some local HVAC supply stores will sell you parts, some wont. Usually the OEM part carriers wont sell to homeowners, but the general part stores will. Otherwise parts can be bought online easily. The middle and end of this video shows (in general) what is involved in installing a blower motor. Reverse the process to take out the old blower motor. I recommend taking a picture of the control board wiring before you start. Then remove wires, pull the blower motor housing, pull the blower motor and replace, then reinstall everything. As to WHY the motor burned out, you will have to look at is if your ductwork is too restrictive and causing the motor to burn out. Perhaps you have too restrictive of a filter and/or have not replaced it routinely and a lot of dust was built up. I would suspect an airflow problem over a manufacturing defect. This is probably why they are saying it isnt covered under warranty. Now if you know you have changed the filter routinely and have not been using a very restrictive filter then its possible the motor was bad in the first place, which should be covered in my opinion but it is also possible they dont include the motor due to all the factors that can cause airflow problems like closing a bunch of registers or a clogged filter. Either way, you will want to figure out and remedy why this happened before you replace. If you can push the envelope and get the part covered, that would be a start. Pretty sure labor wont be covered, but you can try your luck.

Thanks Cindy! This isn't the brand I have, fortunately.