Have just pulled one wheel off a log splitter the tire of which has sat flat for lord knows how long, probably through at least one winter and summer. Unfortunately we had to make the splitter roll about twenty feet, thus breaking the bead on one side. No way that I could see to reestablish the seal. Then, finding this thread I tried the ratchet trick, first putting dish detergent - maybe too much dish detergent - all around the circumference and then putting the air to it. Massive bubbles from a couple of locations, and the tire does not inflate. So I guess I will first take out the valve stem and see if the extra air will make it pop, andif that doesn's work then some silicone caulking the way someone suggested.Don't think I'll try the ether/lighter fluid trick, though. One thing I am not clear about, and that is, does prolonged application of air result in a seal, like well over 5 minutes? I have a pretty good Campbell-Hausfeld compressor that should provide enough. maybe I should try that again

I have 2.6 acres at my place, sadly the yard could be termed a roller coaster of a property. I wanted a machine which could help me level the low spots with a plow blade and wood chips (or clean fill) as I get them. I decided to get a used late 80's Case/Ingersoll 444 (with the installed holding valve). Im still saving/looking for a plow blade. I have been told that my C/I's holding valve is kinda like a hydraulic brake - which I dont completely understand yet... But I'm told its used to descend "safely" down very steep inclines - which my property has plenty of. Im told - this hydraulic holding valve is frequently installed on older cases tractors (22x/44x) which didnt have them - and are working on properties hilly/mountainous like mine. The tractor is completely hydraulic to the back axles - kinda like a bulldozer (not to be confused with hydrostatic on many other tractors). I can say that there are zero issues going down any steep inclines at my place. I dont have to use the brakes or anything - just relax and let the valving do the hard work. It has an interesting sound when dealing with these inclines - sort of a high pressure squishing sound. In addition with the 16 inch rims and very large tires it can just as easily climb those same inclines too. (I have not used chains - yet). One interesting point - the fenders for my model are rather large and eventually become the foot rests to the tractor (the stamped steel is very heavy gauge). Anyway there is an angled lip on the tip of the foot rest (where your toes would be), which looks a bit oddly angled upwards - too steep to be of any use... Well - when your going down a very steep incline those angled tips are what allow you to sort of stand onto them to support my butt from sliding down off the seat - which would ultimately be a crotch slapper into the steering column (or worse - my feet sliding into the front wheels! ) Another nice feature is that reverse on this tractor is as strong/forceful as forward is, and I dont have to rev the motor out to climb or descend the steep hills (which I have tried in reverse!). Pictures of these foot rest can be seen here. http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg160/njdpo/ing444/ Ive had the machine now for about 2 months - overall I'm very pleased with the abilities of this very well built machine. Good luck with your search.

I am totally and irrationally attached to my old car. We just got a "new" one - a 2008 hyundai santa fe, but I am already thinking about what to get next when we sell this one. We got a killer deal on a low mileage used one and could probably even make money if we sold it today (and would make money if we totaled it). I love having a bigger car with a toddler and I love AWD in bad weather but I do not really love the crappy gas mileage so hoping in a couple of years our options are better for a CUV with better fuel economy (some of the models coming out this year look good so we'll see how good they really are and then look for a good deal in a couple of years). But we just put a lot of money (where a "lot" is relative to the value of the car) our 2001 Honda Accord. NOTHING special about it at all but I just love that car. It needed a new CV joint, 4 new tires, an expensive 100k mile service and new brakes. Somewhat recently it had the timing belt done and a new clutch. It runs like new now and even though it's nothing luxurious or sporty and never was, if I am going somewhere by myself and the weather is OK I will always take the old car. To me it's like that perfectly faded, broken in pair of jeans that are just starting to get good after 10 years. yeah there are a couple of frayed edges but oooh so comfortable. DH wanted to sell it when we got the "new" car and go back down to one car again (we have shared a car for the last 10 years or so that he has been working from home) but it's really much harder to do that with a child... and I just could not bear to give up the old car.

Since no one replied to my issue, I went ahead and replaced the Drive Block. The old Drive Block definitely looked worn out. It seems this repair worked. For I did three loads and I did not hear that loud bang noise anymore. I went back to the three websites to view the correspondences and noticed the Drive Block should level with the spin shaft's two tabs. Mine did not. So I wonder how long this 'fix' would last?! I did hit the Drive Block with the back of my screw driver and it would not go down any more. Plus, when I lift up the drum the old Drive Block was stucked in the drum shaft. I had to remove the Lint Trap in order to get the Drive Block out. Which I broke the Lint Trap and had to go and buy replacement part. $11 for a new design, four black round plastic, rather than the old one piece big white hard plastic part. Anyone out there is knowledgeable about this? Should I have replace the spin shaft too? IMPORTANT TIPS: 1. Spend the $15 to buy the Spanner Nut Wrench!! Even for one time use. The instructions show using a hammer and a screw driver to remove the spanner nut, believe me this does NOT work. I spent 15 minutes hitting the screw drive carefully and was not able to get the nut out. With the tool I did it in a few minutes. Even if you get the nut off for the repair, how do you know you can get the nut back in place with enough tightness?! 2. My local parts store prices are better than online stores 3. It is a great time to clean out the drum liner and drum rim Links on similar issue: http://www.fixya.com/support/t115189-noise_end_spin_cycle http://applianceguru.com/forum2/141.html http://forums.partselect.com/washer-repair/kenmore-bangs-end-spin-cycle-3467.html INSTRUCTIONS Removing the agitator to reach the drive block: http://www.repairave.com/washerrepair_wpl_agitator.asp Replacing drive block: http://www.repairave.com/washerrepair_wpl_driveblock.asp PARTS Drive Block: http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=2858&PPStack=1 Spanner Nut Wrench: http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=1021707&PPStack=1