The puck is not visible in the image. The puck is located behind the caliper and in front of the brake disc. You will see the puck after you remove the caliper. Yes, it seems odd indeed. I have mused over this specific situation and I conclude that the unique complaint can only be due to a couple of circumstances. The first one I have already outlined previously in your other thread. The second scenario would be that the entire frame of the tractor is being reshaped during turns because of looseness in frame rivets, or bolts, or screws.......as the case may be. This hypothetical frame reshaping could probably conspire to LENGTHEN the effective brake rod travel when making a left turn (less brake power)......and SHORTEN the effective brake rod travel when making right turns (more brake power). Because there is a "fine line" difference between NO BRAKES and GOOD BRAKES on this mechanical type of disc brake anyhow, just a little difference in the effective length of the brake rod would have a profound overall effect on the stopping power. Study carefully how the frame is put together. Look closely for signs of dry, powdery rust around all the bolts (or whatever is used) that hold the frame together. You might need to wipe around the bolt heads with a clean dry paper towel and then look at the towel to determine if there is any rust (which implies a loose fit condition).

Took it into the GM dealership and showed them the pads that were replaced and left it for the day. Picked the car up later that day and the Service Rep says "we couldn't find anything wrong with the calipers". I asked "then why are the pads wearing so lopsided"? He said the calipers must have broken free from being stuck when the new pads were installed. He reminded me that pads and rotors are not covered under warranty. Car has another year warranty left. I've read that GMs brakes leave much to be desired, particularly the Malibu's. Other than the front brakes its a great little car. Thanks for the replies guys. Bucky

First you are correct about the fact that if you want to lock up the brakes you should be able to do that. The parking brake when you try it should be able to lock up the rear brakes and slide the wheels. So the question arrises, why can't you? First check. Pump the brake pedal about five times and hold it, memorizing how much pressure your placing on the pedal, and how far from the floor the pedal is. (You can use your other foot for a gage if you want to). Now release the brake pedal and wait about ten seconds. Step on the pedal a single time, using the pressure that you think you did when you held the pedal a few moments earlier, and see how high the pedal is from the floor. Is it exactly in the same place? Is the pedal lower? Memorize the pressure your applying, and the height of the pedal, and quickly pump it three times, and see if the pedal height changes. If the pedal ended up at the smae point each time, then your adjustment of the rear brakes is correct, and you don't have any air in the system. If the pedal height incresed when you pumped the brakes, then you could either have an adjustment situation, or still have air in the system. Next step. Apply brake with same pressure as before. Without releasing the pedal, start the engine. Vacuum from the engine should cause the booster to begin to assist you in applying the brakes, and you will feel the pedal fall from your foot. Maintain the same pedal pressure, and see how much further the pedal travels. It takes some experience to feel when this assist is sufficient, but at least you can tell if you indeed have assist or not. A bad booster, or vacuum problem will only give you about an inch or less of pedal travel increase. You will need to investigate the cause if you don't get a good assist. The next possibility requires an assistant. Put the car up on jacks and jackstands with all four wheels off the ground. Put the transmission in neutral. Pump the pedal three to five times to bleed off booster vacuum. Now have an assistant start to lightly press on the brake pedal while you turn the LF wheel by hand. Keep telling the assistant to increase pedal pressure slowly until you cannot turn the wheel with a moderate effort. have the assistant memorize the pedal travel at that point. Release the brake pedal, and repeat the process at the right front wheel. Now do it again for both of the rear wheels. The pair of front wheels should take the same pedal travel, and the rear wheels will each take slightly more than the front in most circumstances. All four should not need to have the pedal pushed more than half way before you cannot turn the wheel. Having made all of these checks, and not making any errors, you are now faced with the likelyhood that you have glazed linings, or at least linings with poor friction characteristics. All of the linings, the rotors, and drums may need replaced on a vehicle this old. Remember to include the hardware for the calipers, as well as the brake shoe hold down, and return springs (Maxipack). Make sure that if you replace the pads and shoes, use top of the line components, thats the only way your going to make sure you have something that should perform correctly. If all of this looks like a lot for doing something as "simple" as brakes, ""you aint seen nothing yet"". Lock-up charateristics, and point of lock-up are aspects that even as techs we normally do not have to concern ourselves with because normally the cars are engineered well enough that they almost always work. We only run into problems like that when we are dealing with improper materials, contaminated materials or the very rare, failed proportioning (or combination) valve. We actually have tools available that allow us to remove the bleeder screws, and directly measure the brake fluid pressure. Some shops have tools that fit in the caliper in place of the brake pads and rotors, in order to measure the systems ability to squeeze the pads and rotors. All in all it can be extremely complex especially when we have to deal with the opposite complaint of an early lock-up, or an antilock brake issue which essentially adds an entire system on top of everything else I have already mentioned here. I hope this helps. If there is any doubt, take it to a real pro to have this checked.

Couple things it could be. If the rear calipers aren't working properly, they might not be fully releasing so the rear pads drag. I had to replace the calipers on my 94 Integra (first replaced the front then the rear a couple years later). I noticed a lot of wear and intermittent squealing on the rear brakes prior to doing this. There is also a proportioning valve that is supposed to send the proper brake line pressure to each of the brakes and normally it doesn't send half to the front and half to the rear because the front end is much heavier so it needs to have more braking. If this is sending too much braking pressure to the rear you could be seeing too much wear there. If I were you I might just replace the rear pads (check the rotors too) and see if the squealing goes away (it probably won't). If it doesn't, get some new calipers.