If you have to squirt gas into the cylinder to restart it when hot, it sounds like the primer is not working at that point, but that doesn't make sense. I have a similar model with the F engine, but on mine it will flood easily on hot restarts if I press the primer.

I am hesitant to post it here because of length but will this one time, send direct after this. This is from previous post. While difficulty in cranking is a fairly common complaint with these engines the problem is very seldom due to valves needing adjusted unless someone has just done a valve job and did it poorly. This is an "L" head or "flat head" engine, the valve adjusting problem is common to Over Head Valve engines. The starter is taxed to its' limit when all else is ideal. Adjusting the valves of this engine is a major undertaking, not one I would try to give you a step by step on but requiring a Service Manual. First I would be sure you have a good battery, that all battery connections are good, clean at the battery AND where the cables attach to the solenoid and to ground. I would check the starter output shaft where it exits the end plate/mounting bracket. Is there excessive side to side play? The top bushing tends to wear egg shaped and allow the armature to drag on the field magnets. Some times a field magnet will come unglued from the starter housing and drag on the armature. Putting 3 - 4 drops of oil on the shaft where it exits may help as the bushing may be dry. Also the brushed could be worn, bad, but not likely. A fairly common cause of hard cranking for these engines is carbon build up in the combustion chambers. This increases the compression ratio and thus the cranking effort required. The head can be removed and the carbon manually removed but if the engine will start, I would use a few tanks of fuel with SeaFoam mixed in it according to instructions on the can. This should remove carbon build up and save the expense of new head gaskets and the time involved. I have had people tell me that too small a battery cables caused excess resistance and the starter does not get enough amperage. It is possible the starter solenoid is at fault but not likely. Using an old screw driver to jump between the two large posts of the starter solenoid will help tell if this is the problem. Do not do this timidly or you will get a lot of sparks, stab it like you mean it. It is also possible the starter its' self is weak perhaps from repeated attempts to make it turn a resistant engine. The starter should never be engaged for more than a few seconds at a time with rest (cool down) between. Excessive heat causes the windings to loose resistance and thus power. Good luck, Walt Conner

This saw starts, runs great for maybe 10 minutes, I ease of throttle and saw dies quickly. Then saw really does not want to start till long after I needed it to. I just replaced carb and saw seems to start better but still does same thing. Need help! Thanks More History on age, services, and when it last ran good might help diagnosing. How old is the saw? When did it last run good? Type of fuel mix ratio, type of stabilizer and how long is it stored with or w/o stabil? Carb settings? Last serviced to fuel lines, filters, plug, "Stark arrest" and etc.? Compression test’s psi? Remove Muffler and show Pic if rings, cylinder. Color of spark?

OK. I opened it up and had a look. The exhaust valve rocker arm stud was backing out, and the rocker arm was consequently very loose. I think that all I need to do is to clean up the threads and hole, apply locking goop, and re-insert. The one thing that's puzzling me is that there doesn't seem to be a cap on the exhaust valve, and I don't see one flopping around anywhere. I was very careful when I took the valve cover off, and am sure that it didn't fall out then. And when I re-tightened the rocker arm stud, there didn't appear to be enough slop to accommodate the cap. Should the exhaust valve have one?